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Old Nov 03, 2012, 09:33 AM
scrub monkey is offline
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use the 4s luke, use the 4s...
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You need the duct tape. It is like the force. It has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the world together
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 10:39 AM
flymess is offline
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Corflute Codger
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Mmmmm......
Old Nov 03, 2012, 10:51 AM
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Corflute Codger
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BTW, this one will go with 1800mAh 3cell Batt, 40A ESC, and just to ease it in, a 2900kv heli motor.

Flying this morning, after I crash!

VELCRO to hold the battery in place is how I go.
Last edited by flymess; Nov 03, 2012 at 11:29 AM.
Old Nov 03, 2012, 11:01 PM
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Corflute Codger
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Didn't get to maiden "chucky" this morning, but just want to say that the nose cone is not essential for this thing to fly. It is essential for this thing to crash and survive.
The cone spreads and absorbs any impact (crumple zone) and if it gets too damaged it is simple to replace.
Also a note about the elevons. They are big but can be trimmed down if wanted, depends on your flying style. I chamfer the ends so that when I perform one of my cartwheel landings, it's the strong points of the plane that take the impact.
Last edited by flymess; Nov 04, 2012 at 02:55 AM.
Old Nov 05, 2012, 12:59 AM
AERIAL MADMAN is offline
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just about Anything can fly
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go hard and why not


Quote:
Originally Posted by flymess View Post
Didn't get to maiden "chucky" this morning, but just want to say that the nose cone is not essential for this thing to fly. It is essential for this thing to crash and survive.
The cone spreads and absorbs any impact (crumple zone) and if it gets too damaged it is simple to replace.
Also a note about the elevons. They are big but can be trimmed down if wanted, depends on your flying style. I chamfer the ends so that when I perform one of my cartwheel landings, it's the strong points of the plane that take the impact.
why on earth would you want smaller control suraces!
go BIG just dont give as much input, until you want it.
as for the nose cone i can say it makes corlute wings nearly impossible to break.

well almost
Old Nov 05, 2012, 02:30 AM
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Corflute Codger
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hit a snag with battery placement. The sleek new nosecone and the snazzy hatch don't cut the mustard so gone back to the original type of cone with the flutes running across the plane. Gives a higher profile which might not look as good but is needed with my battered and swollen batts. I score the corflute with a phillips-head screw driver where it is to be folded over. Tape or ziptie cone to bottom of plane then the hatch cover is squeezed to fit in the cutout section of wing top which is now 50mm wide. The cover should be able to hold itself closed. If anyone wants more details just ask and I'll try to get better pics.
place a strip of strong tape across the hinge line or it will eventually break.
Old Nov 08, 2012, 12:31 AM
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Corflute Codger
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Did maiden today. First 3 hand launches weren't very good, but after a couple of adjustments, mostly throttle(about 3/4 , got it in the sky). Seemed to be very stable. Its a lot straighter than "pinky". It was very windy and 1 year ago I wouldn't have tried, but it flies good if you like fast electric. All landings were flat with no damage
Old Nov 14, 2012, 02:48 PM
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just about Anything can fly
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corflute 70mm edf jet


my latest corflute jet build

I have had some experience with different jet shapes and designs but i wanted to build one with a sealed pointy corflute fuselage while profile jets are fun i wanted to build something a little cooler.
and here we go
the jet is 900mm long 600mm span
the wing section must have the flutes running across the wing

I took a piece of 900mm by 600mm flute and measured out the general shape of what i wanted the wing-tail section to look like nothing exact just add nose,wings,tail and done then measured an extra 2-3cm on the leading edge of the wing for folding later,you could fold more exposed edges if you wanted.
Old Nov 14, 2012, 03:23 PM
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just about Anything can fly
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once you have your shape right fold under the 20-30mm on the leading edge of the wing and glue you could use clamps but beware they will leave marks on it,i used a big sleal tool box epoxy them and folded them over with the box on top =totally flat.
then mooved onto the upper fuse it is 550mm long 40mm wide on top 50mm high and i have left 20mm around the edge to fold under after it has had the flutes removed on the inner side.
your hight pretty much determines your angle at the nose so it is up to you where you finish your nose angle mine was 140mm back from tip.
Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:42 PM
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Corflute Codger
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next installment please!
Old Nov 15, 2012, 12:52 AM
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just about Anything can fly
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upper fuse


next i bent the upper fuse over to its final shape and placed lines where the overlap will be to be trimmed and the join line is straight to meet mid fuse correctly.
once desired shape was attained it was trimmed and glued with epoxy.

there are only 3 materials in this build,corflute.epoxy,paint and there is your airframe
Old Nov 15, 2012, 01:04 AM
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just about Anything can fly
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up and mid join


whilst doing the join for mid and upper fuse i found it better to kind of tack it in place before properly applying glue and tucking overlap flap to the underside last
not all at once.

before this point best to think about cutting flutes for control surfaces as the mid fuse can no longer lay flat.
Old Nov 15, 2012, 01:13 AM
AERIAL MADMAN is offline
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just about Anything can fly
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lower fuse


if you cant work it out forget the jet
Old Nov 15, 2012, 11:15 PM
AERIAL MADMAN is offline
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just about Anything can fly
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fuse top bottom complete


with the fuse joined i am almost done with airframe,just a couple of rudders any shape you please.the motor is to be positioned with relevance to the battery size and setup you use,best to think about this at early stages but cut later.
Old Nov 16, 2012, 10:02 AM
AERIAL MADMAN is offline
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just about Anything can fly
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airframe


just the gear to go in and away i go.

when the weather permits


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