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Old Aug 22, 2012, 07:36 PM
rabdooley is offline
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Could you give me the distance from the firewall to the hinge line at the rudder? I will add 125mm to this measurement. This is the first measurement needed to start the float plans. (prop to hinge line)
Thanks.
P.s. I will be ordering the plane this paycheck !!!! Physched......
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 08:49 PM
bicyclemonkey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabdooley View Post
Could you give me the distance from the firewall to the hinge line at the rudder? I will add 125mm to this measurement. This is the first measurement needed to start the float plans. (prop to hinge line)
Thanks.
P.s. I will be ordering the plane this paycheck !!!! Physched......
945mm, from rudder hinge line to the firewall.
Old Aug 22, 2012, 08:52 PM
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I got the inside and outside of the firewall fuel proofed. It had some sort of gray primer on it but it was very dry.



Old Aug 22, 2012, 09:17 PM
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Tru Turn spinner. Got the engine mounted.





Old Aug 22, 2012, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bicyclemonkey View Post
945mm, from rudder hinge line to the firewall.
Thanks for the measurement.
Old Aug 23, 2012, 09:00 AM
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Just curious, do the instructions give control surface travel recommendations? The shorter horn you chose would reduce the amount of movement of the ailerons.
Old Aug 23, 2012, 09:26 AM
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Closer to the hinge (short control horn) gives more throw. At the servo, closer to the shaft gives less throw.
Edwin
Old Aug 23, 2012, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootrb4 View Post
Just curious, do the instructions give control surface travel recommendations? The shorter horn you chose would reduce the amount of movement of the ailerons.
Aileron travel is +/- 40mm per the manual. I'm serious, the included aileron control horn was absolutely ridiculous. The shorter versions they included for the elevator and rudder are usable I just chose not to use them so I could keep all the horns the same, I'm just OCD (anal, if you will) about that.

*edit*
I had spoken with a guy from Troy Built (where I purchased the ARF) and discussed the aileron control horns with him. I sent him photos so we'd be on the same page. He emailed me this update to my photo I sent him with his recommendations. They were to enlarge the slot in the aileron to accommodate the size of the horn and to drill a hole for the push rod that was in-line with the hinge line.



One has to remember just because it's the hardware that was included with the kit doesn't mean it's the correct hardware. This is not only a Chinese manufactured ARF, it's a Chinese company. It's not like Sig where the ARFs were designed in America and tested and then manufactured by China. So one should probably not use any of the included hardware anyway.
Last edited by bicyclemonkey; Aug 23, 2012 at 09:47 AM.
Old Aug 23, 2012, 10:52 PM
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Any suggestions?

Old Aug 24, 2012, 12:06 AM
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Two sided steering tiller connected by springs to the rudder control horn. Or aftermarket tail gear.
Edwin
Old Aug 24, 2012, 12:51 AM
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This works very well.
http://www.advantagehobby.com/24624/SUL860/?cat=690

But then looking back on page one,it looks like you would have to remove the fin from the fuse to make it work. Iduno. That fin doesn't look like a good place to mount a tail wheel in the first place. But I can't tell if the tail wheel I have a link to would even work because the rudder might drag the ground

I would use my dremel and make my wheel fit, even if I had to cut off the bottom of the rudder,and get out the white ultracoat. But it isn't my airplane

Fred
Last edited by Crowfly; Aug 24, 2012 at 01:00 AM.
Old Aug 24, 2012, 08:10 AM
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Looking at it some more, you could probably make a new tail gear without the coil. For a plane that size, it would work just as well. You really have a lot of options available, not a disaster.
Edwin
Old Aug 24, 2012, 09:35 AM
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Done, last night I bent a new tail wheel out that's the same just without the coil.



The next problem I ran into was that the plastic tab on the tail wheel there is way larger than the wire so I had to dremel the rudder and the rear of the fuselage so the rudder would stay aligned.





There were only two pre-cut CA hinge slots on the vertical the other that was shown in the manual was not cut and there was hard wood there. I just used some small Robart point hinges.

Old Aug 25, 2012, 03:46 PM
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By far the worst part of the build so far was the tail wheel. This part would have sucked even if the factory tail wheel hadn't broke.

I should've used a bracket that screws to the bottom of the fuselage instead of trying to make the factory method work. Like this one on my Tiger Moth:



This way seems like there's more slop in the tail wheel gear with the factory setup.



And because of this, I couldn't get the hinge line any closer together than this:

Old Aug 25, 2012, 06:00 PM
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I ordered my "Miss Elaine".
Sorry to read about your tail wheel problems. My build should go a bit easier, since I will be making mine a seaplane and won't need a tail wheel.
While trying to design floats for this bird, I referenced the manual online. Page 58 has the CG location and is some what confusing. It shows both an 87mm and a 150mm cg. Is the 150mm measurement a lateral measurement?
Any thoughts on this?
Also, if you know the correct cg location, could you give me the measurement from it to the firewall. This will help me in designing the floats.

Thanks again!

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/ns/ma...SELA-73AAF.pdf


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