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Thread OP
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Got my Century Bell 222 Body Kit
Though I ordered the unpainted one, they sent me a painted one. Bummer.
It looks cool, but seems heavier that I thought it would be. It is not the same Lexan that RC car bodies are made of. It has a "rubbery" sort of feel to it. |
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Polyhethylene Terephthalate Glycol. PET is the same stuff soda bottles are made from. Our chemist here says the Glycol group will probably make it stronger or more impact resistant. He went into "polar" and "link" etc but I didn't get all that (lol) soooo, he said it would make it more stiff (bottom line). Seems its used for many impact items including race car body parts.
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Thread OP
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Parts bag. I did not want to open it as I am going to return it for the unpainted one.
The wheels are one piece molded and do not rotate. Also, the kit comes with a 370 motor and main and rear rotor blades. The main blades are about 15mm LONGER than the stock HB blades. |
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Thread OP
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I just called Century and of course they are out of stock on the clear body that I wanted. They say the new clear ones wont be in until Dec 20th.
I am not happy, but this gives me a chance to beta test Darths Hughes 300 canopy before I go to the faux 'retracts'. on the Bell. |
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Quote:
There are production advantages of PETG. It's cheap, about one fifth the cost of lexan. The low molding temperature is a bonus too. PETG only needs to be heated to 250 degrees to be moldable while Lexan requires temperatures of about 400 degrees. Lexan is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs ambient moisture from the air, PETG doesn't. This means that lexan needs to be heated to about 200 degrees for an hour before molding in order for it to pre-dry. If it's not pre-dryed, it developes bubbles when heated up to 400 degrees. PETG doesn't require pre-drying. You can mold 10 items in PETG in the same time span as one lexan item. It's very efficient. The fact that it's not as impact resistant (and shatterproof) is the reason why PETG is not used for R/C car bodies or bulletproof glass. I've vacuum molded with PETG, Lexan, ABS, Styrene, etc. -Frank |
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Last edited by FrankW; Nov 21, 2003 at 06:09 PM.
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Good info Frank... I couldn't agree more.
 I still do like the PETG for more than the obvious production reasons. The Micro-V canopy I make for the V-E is made from clear .030" thick PETG. We find it forms best at 304 to 312 degrees. At least for the detail lines and flange on our canopy. Shhh, don't tell anyone but I'm playing with some white ABS and some white Kydex too. This way those who don't want to paint can buy a white one and just assemble it with self bought decals.  Just as long as it's not the styrene the LMH helis canopies are made from. That stuff is way too brittle!!!*** BUT back to the topic, I like the painted one you have wannabe! Nice! I may just have to get me one of those for my HB. I'd of made that body out of .030" too. I tried .020" and although it was a little lighter, not much, it was definately not as able to hold a shape over a distance. Meaning the body would have dips and waves as you pulled it on the body mounts. SO is Century selling this body seperate??? Airwolf too??? Thanks for sharing! __________ Best regards, Ron Osinski aka - GMRO |
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Last edited by GMRO; Nov 21, 2003 at 06:39 PM.
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Last edited by Hoverup; Nov 21, 2003 at 09:51 PM.
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Thread OP
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Ron,
Yea, the painted one has a nice fade to yellow that looks pretty good. I wanted the clear one because I am going to paint one to look like an HH-65 Dolphin. I have an EDF tail and I think it will be cool. It should'nt be hard to make a Bell 222 look like this: |
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