Originally Posted by sterob

I fitted my 2200 battery the same as you.Yes, its quite close to the servo arms but seems to clear them ok. I *did*think about putting the battery on its side but decided against it. My Rx is tucked up behind the battery. I cable tied all the servo leads together to stop them getting caught by the servos.

I didnt use velcro to fix my 2200mah. I add some piece of foam-tape and a pillow-foam pieces over the Lipo. This way impossible for the battery to move.


I will post some pictures of that in th next days...

I fly mine with either a 1300,1050 or 1000 mAh pack. These sit right against the motor and the plane balances nicely. I get several climbs to height with these packs and the plane reacts well with the lighter load. Tex.

Interesting ideas folks.
I may try the lighter batts too.
Will maiden Wed.
If this flies anything like my Sky Surfer, I'll be really pleased.
The SS is a "go to" for comfort and wind.
Hoping the Walrus is it's close cousin.
It certainly is in looks and design.

To have the CG on the wire channel here are some pic.

I had use foam tape for door insulation to built a tray for the battery. This way the 2200 mAh LiPo is squeeze side to side.

I had put Scotch tape over the foam pillow for easy slide in, slide out of it and to have a handle. This way the LiPo can't move up and down.

I had used velcro to fix by the vent hole the Satellite Rx (It's a SAT100 from HK)

First, I had secure the heat sink of the ESC with a Ty-rap. This way if the ESC come hot, the shrink tube that hold the heat sink will not let me down with a ESC without heat sink.

The ESC wire to Rx is very short, so not a lot of option for the Rx position. I try to position it as far as possible from the ESC and the LiPo.

Also you can see the Satellite Rx wire tape on the side behind the Rx

Originally Posted by Krycek W

The ESC wire to Rx is very short, so not a lot of option for the Rx position.

Same here...I spliced a longer servo lead on mine...much better.

With the smaller 1300 battery it's forward and the rx is pushed back under the wing. No problem. Tex.

Hi Guys,

I just finished my Walrus today apart from setting up the flaps. I was searching for a tutorial and came across this book of wonders.

I had a number of cosmetic problems with mine. The foam looked as if it had been overheated at some stage and had that hollow beady look. Sanding it will make it look worse so I guess it stays. I was going to do the Minimoa trick with the holes drilled in the spinner for cooling but I tried everything to get that prop assembly off but no luck plus the spinner had suffered from overtightening at the factory and floating around the box was the spinner and it's screw looking as though it had a white plastic washer on it. Be careful not to overtighten that central screw or knock the spinner the plastic is very brittle.

My ESC was the old no name type with a flat metal plate for a heatsink. I cut the heatshrink off over the metal but I'm tempted to swap it for a 40 amp Plush. Surprisingly the one supplied came with the brake already set

Both the wing bolts dropped full length into their holes and had nothing to bite into. Not much can be done without actually cutting a door in the bottom of the fuse. The screws are in there tight and stopping the wings from departing the fuse but it will be impossible to detach the wings without major surgery. I intend to cut vents aft of the motor for cooling and using a cut down servo cover for scoops.

I have a glut of 2200 3s batteries and to fit them I cut a piece of foam to sit in the bottom of the fuse from the step behind the motor back to just short of the servos. Be careful placing any battery which could possibly move slightly backwards towards the servos because the ends of the pushrods could easily puncture the battery case after a few dozen stabs. I ended up pushing the battery as far forward as possible and used the blue "Never let go" Velcro.

The rx is velcro'd between the two pushrods just short of the rear air vent. I ran two layers of extreme packing tape from nose to tail to avoid scuff marks when landing. I was of the belief that the ailerons and flaps used 4 channels but the two Y servo leads say different and both ailerons go to Ch 1 and both flaps to Ch 6. The ailerons work well but I'm yet to figure out how to set the flaps with my 9X.

Maiden is Sunday afternoon, weather willing. The temperature is in the 30 odd degrees C every day but the wind hasn't let up whenever we get within 100 yards of the field. If I can find room I'll be running the Quanum telemetry system to watch those temperatures plus GPS datalogging. I may cut a hole in the rear of the foam part of the canopy to slide the GPS unit in there.

By the way, with that set up the CoG is 44 mm from the leading edge. Good luck to you all and good flying. regards Stu.

Cr2o3 said: "I intend to cut vents aft of the motor for cooling and using a cut down servo cover for scoops."

Careful with that, you don't want the folded prop to snag and prevent start-up. I prefer the NACA style with a curved ramp to draw the air down. No drag either. Tex.

Thanks Jock, what a dumb idea that was, of course it would interfere with the prop. I did the same with another plane which lacked cooling and built the scoops into the canopy and it worked like a charm. Needless to say I won't be using spoons just behind the motor DUH! Thanks for the heads up. Senility isn't creeping up on me, it's pounced, all fours.

Mine arrived. Boxed well, no damage to exterior box, or interior box...but the tail was broken. (seems to be a common problem)
Uh, HK, maybe if they tape some sort of temporary support to this part of the tail, like bamboo skewer or something...it wouldn't get broken while they are handling the plane, boxing it, dropkicking it around the factory...or whatever it is that is breaking this part. It's not that damn delicate.
This leads me to think they are shipping the damn things with the broken tail. Inexcusable. It's a minor fix, but still inexcusable. Otherwise the plane looks OK. Will try to set it up this weekend.

Here's something that might be of interest for someone choosing a battery. I did a 10 minute flight in dead air with low power. Probably could have done with even less power than I used. After 10 minutes I had to put 360 mAh back into the battery. If my math is right, it means I was cruising nicely at about 23 watts.

My 1300 battery would give me a half-hour of this type of flight, your 2200 would give an hour.

I'd say that's pretty efficient! Tex.

Comment #2: Just did a 20 min flight with my 1050 battery doing a better job of endurance profile and refilled it with 557 mAh. That would include heat loss during the charge, too, so this worked out to around 18.3 watts to maintain flight. T.