Mini-Review: E-flite Blade 120SR - RC Groups
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Aug 02, 2012, 08:20 PM
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Mini-Review: E-flite Blade 120SR

****This one is also posted in the "Micro Helicopter" section of RCGroups.*****

A 120-Sized Fixed Pitch Helicopter


The Blade 120SR by E-Flite is a fixed pitch training helicopter. It has a brushed main motor and a small coreless brushed motor for the tail.

It is powered by 1s, 500mah 12C Li-Po battery, and a 5-in-1 Unit that has 2 servos, gyros, receiver adn more all built in.

Many cool features of the 120sR include the fact that it's fully DSM2/DSMX compatible, or that it has a beginner/advanced swashplate setting that allows you to adjust the skill level characteristics. (more on that later.)

It is a full 4 channel heli, so it will take longer to master than a 2- or 3-channel helicopter. However, it will be easier to control and maintain because it has all 4 controls, roll, pitch, yaw, and throttle. It will be more maneuverable than a 3 channel heli, along with teaching orientation for those wanting to get a 3D heli after the 120SR.

On your maiden flight, I suggest you take it outside to an open field, or a very big yard. Before the first spoolup, make sure that all of the controls are correct. If you do left aileron, the swashplate should tilt left, and vise versa. Moving the right stick back should make the swashplate tilt back, and vise versa.

On the first flight I recommend it is over grass to prevent damage. On the first spoolup, keep it low, maybe two or three feet above the ground, just to get the feel for it. Then once you can hover well, bring it up a little higher. Practice hovering, then get nose in down. Turn the heli 180 degrees with the rudder stick and have the noes facing you. The aileron AND elevator controls will be reverse.

Once you have nose in and nose out mastered, start doing forward flight, backward flight, stall turns, figure 8s, etc.

Now, about the adjustable swashplate.

it has 2 pairs of ball links, 2 short, 2 long.

When you get it, it comes with the ball link on the short ones. This means that there is less control throws, which means the heli is less responsive. you want to learn on this.

Once you get the hang of the shorter ones, go ahead and switch it to the longer ones. This will give you a little more throws on the blades, allowing you to do more.

Dual Rates and Expo:
For dual rates, if you are just starting out, I suggest 75% Dual rates and 35% expo on aileron and elevator, and 90% dual rates and 0% expo on rudder.

Now, onto the critical part of the review...

This helicopter is very durable, but if you push your luck and crash too much, it will break.

The tail motor is very susceptible to burn out, so you MUST let it completely cool before you fly another battery, otherwise it will burn out. I went through 3. And with the $12 price tag, it can get expensive fast for people on a tight budget (kind of like me...)

Other things I most often broke:
  • Tail Boom
  • Blades
  • Tail Rotor
  • Vertical Fin
  • Canopy
  • Landing Gear
  • Carbon Fiber Canopy Mount
  • And I very often lost swashplate links and canopy grommets.

What i would do, If I were you:

Stock up on spare swashplate links and canopy grommets, a couple tail blades, and a couple carbon fiber canopy mounts. This will give you more fly time, less "" time.

Hop-Ups and Upgrades

Many upgrades are avalible for the Blade 120sR, including CNC Aluminum Parts, High-Power batteries, and Brushless motors and stuff to make them work with the 120SR.

Here is a small list and links of a few upgrades available for the blade 120SR.

-CNC Main Frame
-CNC Aluminum Main Blade Grips

-CNC Aluminum Anti-Collar

-Aluminum/Carbon Fiber Flybar
-CNC Aluminum Swashplate

-CNC Aluminum Main Shaft
-Tail Rotor Housing With Carbon vertical
-Tenergy 3.7V 500mah LIPO Battery for e-flite Blade 120SR RC Helicopters
-Hyperion G3 CX - CS 550mah for Blade 120SR Heli (25C)
-Turnigy Nano-Tech 600mAh 1s 35~70C Lipo Pack (fits Nine Eagles solo Pro 328, Eflite MQX, 120SR


Quality (General): ****.50 (four and a half stars)
Ease of use: **** (four stars)
Price tag: *** (three stars)
Repairs: *** (three stars)
Tail motor: * (one star)
Value: ****.75 (four and three-quarter stars)
Fun: ***** (five stars)
Speed of teaching: ***** (five stars)

Would I recommend this product to a friend?
Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Would I buy it again? If I lost all the skills I have, of course.
Last edited by BladeScraper; Jun 25, 2013 at 01:45 PM. Reason: added info
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Dec 28, 2012, 06:33 AM
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How to secure main motor screws?

Hi, does anyone knows what kind of glue is used on the main motor screws?
HH told me if any is silicone based rubber glue but looks like a hard dark red enamel or similar. I don`t want to use any threadlocker that could melt plastic.

Any help? thanks in advance.
Dec 28, 2012, 08:02 AM
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You mean the screws that screw into the motor? Metal to metal, use threadlock.
Jun 25, 2013, 01:52 PM
I think I'm inverted. Maybe.
acetech09's Avatar
Originally Posted by A. Iosue
Hi, does anyone knows what kind of glue is used on the main motor screws?
HH told me if any is silicone based rubber glue but looks like a hard dark red enamel or similar. I don`t want to use any threadlocker that could melt plastic.

Any help? thanks in advance.
The dark red enamel is red threadlock. I don't know of any threadlocks that will melt plastic. You're fine.
Jun 25, 2013, 01:54 PM
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LOL that was in 2012 Ace \
Although you shouldn't use Red threadlock... red is permanent and can damage stuff. you should use blue in metal to metal. Only use red in stuff you NEVER want to come out, ever.

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