Originally Posted by Mac50L

Yes very interested as there are 2 or 3 Tx4s around here that could do with that modification. I'm tending to "teach", "ignition switch off" on landing. Before take-off, "Contact" (meaning switch on). REAL(TM) aircraft pilots have procedures so why not RC fliers?

Given your background which I deduced from your posts, I think I can give you the super short cut. Just put in a switch (SPST) interrupting the center lead of the throttle pot. The easiest way to do this is to trace the orange wire (from the center post) back about 2 inches and cut it there and put in the switch. I did 3 transmitters in about ½ hr. So, it is pretty simple. I included a schematic of a 6ch xmitter to assist you if necessary. What you are cutting in the lead from R23 to the center lead of the throttle. R23 is in the lower right corner of the drawing. I hope I have been clear. But, if I need to give more information, please don't hesitate to ask.
BTW-It looks like it is pretty simple to put in reverse switches, too. They are just surface mount switches? right? Also, the switches appear to be panel mount DPST switches. Is that right. I think we said DPDT switches earlier. What am I missing?
AJ

Originally Posted by ajbaker

Or, Use THIS and you will eliminate any problems. You will have to trim 2mm of foam - about 30 seconds to do it.
AJ

Well I gathered initially that the reason the control surfaces would stop responding if you get the speed high enough was due to lack of power in the servo's.

I thought that was a sensible assumption to make, but as someone pointed out, the surfaces will flex when under that much pressure too, greatly reducing the effectiveness of what the servo can do.

When you see other, far faster/stiffer planes using 9g servo's it kind of makes sense that the issue is likely to be more related to the flexing in the control surface than the pressure the servo can exert.

A two fold solution seems best though, reinforce the control surfaces with CF rods but also stick a slightly more powerful servo in the elevator as a last resort to allow you to push the bird up to reduce speed and regain effectiveness in the other surfaces.

I've learned so much here in such a short space of time, thanks for the info guys, very helpful.

Originally Posted by agedflier

DJ...........Is this the one?? http://masterairscrew.com/new6x43-bl...lerpusher.aspx

Another question...Do you think that trimming the inside of the pod where the motor spins would make the pod too weak.?? Just a thought.

Yes Sir that is the prop. It's the easiest prop I ever had that could be mistakenly put on backwards both sides look the same.

I assume that you would open up the motor housing so that you can slide the motor back flush with the face. I know the out runner motor cannot be touching the foam but it's got me looking at mine again to see if that might be done. I'm going to cut the zip tie and see what it would take to set it flush like you're suggesting. I will get back to you with what I find and photos if I make a change.

That would in fact be the most elegant solution to the whole motor thing.

DJ

A-flier, you did not say you wanted to move the motor back in the motor housing I just assumed that's why you wanted to cut out foam. So I went out in the shop and studied the whole program and decided to try putting the motor inside the housing by sliding the can back.

I cut the zip tie, pulled it out, burned another hole back further under where the can would be. To fit the ears on the can I had to cut the slots further back and then the whole thing slid back in and was flush with the front of the motor housing.

Note: that zip tie must be very very tight. Once threaded slide this is the knot around to the bottom then with a pair of needle nose pliers grip the zip tie next to the knot then start twisting it listening for clicks as you advanced the teeth through the knot. It will click two times with every twist, keep that up until the knot is buried in the foam.

There will still be some movement in the motor but mine should be tight enough to where it's not going to be a problem.

A- flyer, thank you for the question. It has led me to a new and even more elegant solution to the Bixler ll motor mount.

DJ a.k.a. kamikaze ace. Wears no helmet!

Originally Posted by Sculptor

A-flier, you did not say you wanted to move the motor back in the motor housing I just assumed that's why you wanted to cut out foam. So I went out in the shop and studied the whole program and decided to try putting the motor inside the housing by sliding the can back.

I cut the zip tie, pulled it out, burned another hole back further under where the can would be. To fit the ears on the can I had to cut the slots further back and then the whole thing slid back in and was flush with the front of the motor housing.

Note: that zip tie must be very very tight. Once threaded slide this is the knot around to the bottom then with a pair of needle nose pliers grip the zip tie next to the knot then start twisting it listening for clicks as you advanced the teeth through the knot. It will click two times with every twist, keep that up until the knot is buried in the foam.

There will still be some movement in the motor but mine should be tight enough to where it's not going to be a problem.

A- flyer, thank you for the question. It has led me to a new and even more elegant solution to the Bixler ll motor mount.

DJ a.k.a. kamikaze ace. Wears no helmet!

Attachment 5461486Attachment 5461487Attachment 5461488Attachment 5461489Attachment 5461490Attachment 5461491

DJ..........You are a master of understatement..I will with your approval do as you have done. That way I can experiment with the standard 1300kv motor and the so called recommended 1800kv motor. Did you have to change the CoG?

question NOT related...How do you attach text to your pic's?

Originally Posted by agedflier

DJ..........You are a master of understatement..I will with your approval do as you have done. That way I can experiment with the standard 1300kv motor and the so called recommended 1800kv motor. Did you have to change the CoG?

question NOT related...How do you attach text to your pic's?

I went out to my shop to do this and take pictures of it. My first zip tie left so much slack in the cans movement that I cut it off, braided up a new zip tie pulled that bad boy down as tight is I could get it . Only then could I say that this was a good change in my plane.

Thank you for reminding me to look at the CG, I'm not sure what it is. But the plane flies like a bat out I hell!

I will go to my flight field on Saturday morning when the glider guys fly and asked them if they would help me fly my airplane.

I want to understand the air the way they do.

As you can tell I am a monument to change, not for the sake of change but for the sake of beauty!

About the notes on the pictures, I right click "open in Photoshop" and I just type the stuff in.

DJ
PS: am I on my second glass of wine again?

Originally Posted by Sculptor

Attachment 5461491

Great shot! Great tips on the motor mounting as well!

Originally Posted by Sculptor

A-flier, you did not say you wanted to move the motor back in the motor housing I just assumed that's why you wanted to cut out foam. So I went out in the shop and studied the whole program and decided to try putting the motor inside the housing by sliding the can back.

I cut the zip tie, pulled it out, burned another hole back further under where the can would be. To fit the ears on the can I had to cut the slots further back and then the whole thing slid back in and was flush with the front of the motor housing.

Note: that zip tie must be very very tight. Once threaded slide this is the knot around to the bottom then with a pair of needle nose pliers grip the zip tie next to the knot then start twisting it listening for clicks as you advanced the teeth through the knot. It will click two times with every twist, keep that up until the knot is buried in the foam.

There will still be some movement in the motor but mine should be tight enough to where it's not going to be a problem.

A- flyer, thank you for the question. It has led me to a new and even more elegant solution to the Bixler ll motor mount.

DJ a.k.a. kamikaze ace. Wears no helmet!

Attachment 5461486Attachment 5461487Attachment 5461488Attachment 5461489Attachment 5461490Attachment 5461491

You sir,are pure GENIUS :O
That really is a great idea and an even better paint scheme :P

I understand that you extend the grooves further back to accommodate for the 'ears' of the motor mount/holder (black plastic thing) and I also understand you use a hot knife (or rod (would it be OK to use a rod?) ) to make a hole through right under the motor mount and tie it up with zip tie....

Something I don't understand is when you mention 'twist' the 'knot' I'm sorry but I find it difficult to imagine that statement of yours.this one in particular :

"Once threaded slide this is the knot around to the bottom then with a pair of needle nose pliers grip the zip tie next to the knot then start twisting it listening for clicks as you advanced the teeth through the knot. It will click two times with every twist, keep that up until the knot is buried in the foam."

It gets me rally confuse to understand what you mean here,perhaps you could explain it a but further or link any video to explain what's happening,it would really be great

Thank you and have a Great Day

Originally Posted by ajbaker

Given your background which I deduced from your posts,

Yes, electronics. "DC to Daylight?" someone asked me once. "No I replied, "Dc to Xrays actually."

I think I can give you the super short cut. Just put in a switch (SPST) interrupting the center lead of the throttle pot.

Crude, simple, I like it, thanks.

BTW-It looks like it is pretty simple to put in reverse switches, too. They are just surface mount switches?

Switches I used were DPDT mini slide switches -

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView....SUBCATID=978#1

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/products_upl...oduct_4215.jpg

I just glued them in to the case after cutting the glued on label on the front panel which covers the holes which are just the right size for those switches.

Also, the switches appear to be panel mount DPST switches. Is that right. I think we said DPDT switches earlier. What am I missing?

The switches on the T4 might be DTSP (suspicious they are) but hacking into the wires from the pots, it was logical to use DPDT (hope I said DT previously).

Originally Posted by agedflier

question NOT related...How do you attach text to your pic's?

Actually a question that can relate to any thread. If I were doing it, text, I'd use Paint.Net, GIMP or IrfanView - all free which is the price I like to pay.

Did my first loop (solo) today, was exhilarating but made the mistake of forgetting to drop the throttle when I reached the top of the loop so it ended up being very big and cut it a little close (prob 1/2 mistake high).

Lost my canopy after the loop so had to land, got a cam on the wing but can't stop the wavy footage from the motor vibration, what is the fix for this?

Video here from iPhone

First Loop Bixler 2 (0 min 23 sec)

Originally Posted by AscotRC

Did my first loop (solo) today, was exhilarating but made the mistake of forgetting to drop the throttle when I reached the top of the loop so it ended up being very big and cut it a little close (prob 1/2 mistake high).

Lost my canopy after the loop so had to land, got a cam on the wing but can't stop the wavy footage from the motor vibration, what is the fix for this?

Video here from iPhone
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gE9h...e_gdata_player

nothing wrong with your flying there mate, looked like you were into the wind when you started your loop, way to go!

Yes, do remember to back off on the throttle as you pass over the top, just that you'll possibly be accelerating to speeds beyond that the airframe can cope, especially when combined with the g forces

been crazy windy around brizzy, driving us all nuts!

Originally Posted by AussieHoppy

nothing wrong with your flying there mate, looked like you were into the wind when you started your loop, way to go!

Yes, do remember to back off on the throttle as you pass over the top, just that you'll possibly be accelerating to speeds beyond that the airframe can cope, especially when combined with the g forces

been crazy windy around brizzy, driving us all nuts!

Thanks Aussie. Yeah the winds in Brizzy suck at the moment... was up and down this afternoon, this spot was okay, seems more protected... really enjoyed myself and actually changed my battery, which is a first as usually I have a flight and just happy I am taking my plane home in one piece. Confidence is key

Originally Posted by jkishan16

You sir,are pure GENIUS :O
That really is a great idea and an even better paint scheme :P

I understand that you extend the grooves further back to accommodate for the 'ears' of the motor mount/holder (black plastic thing) and I also understand you use a hot knife (or rod (would it be OK to use a rod?) ) to make a hole through right under the motor mount and tie it up with zip tie....

Something I don't understand is when you mention 'twist' the 'knot' I'm sorry but I find it difficult to imagine that statement of yours.this one in particular :

"Once threaded slide this is the knot around to the bottom then with a pair of needle nose pliers grip the zip tie next to the knot then start twisting it listening for clicks as you advanced the teeth through the knot. It will click two times with every twist, keep that up until the knot is buried in the foam."

It gets me rally confuse to understand what you mean here,perhaps you could explain it a but further or link any video to explain what's happening,it would really be great

Thank you and have a Great Day

The way I said this does make it hard to understand. In my trade as a sculptor I've often had to burn patterns into foam. For example heating up copper leaves and burning the pattern into a mold or vines and grapes with hummingbirds and butterflies. I've smoke a lot of foam.

Here are some pictures I prepared for you. I hope they add some clarity to the things that you ask about. These photos are about how to get a zip tie titened up. My talented wife took the pictures. Right click on the photos and hit open to read the small text on the photos. I'm going to make a separate post about questions that were asked about hot knife and hotwire cutting. I hope this helps



DJ

As a sculptor I've had to do a lot of weird things with foam. I've cut architectural parts using CNC machines, leaves cut out of copper heated up and prested into foam. These things were used as molds for precast architectural stone.

Here are some ways to cut foam using stuff we all have. Heat control is very important so don't throw away those foam boxes that are airplanes come in y'all need those for practice.

A really hot tool, knife or profile wire will vaporize the foam before it ever touches it you will have almost no control because you will have no feel for the cut. Practice will teach you to manage your heat.


Thank you for your interest in all this.

DJ

Here are some photos that might help someone.