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Jul 28, 2012, 12:46 PM
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Recovering an old ARF Clipped Wing Cub


I have an old 1/4 scale Lion Models Clipped Wing Cub I am going to recover. She is a great flyer but the covering they used was marginal to say the least. Any tips? Guess it would be best to cut the hinges off and re-hinge them after covering. While she is naked I'll look over the airframe to be sure everything is still holding together well.
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Jul 30, 2012, 06:16 PM
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rjstrickjr's Avatar
Lots of thin CA and sand paper!!

I removed the covering from a 12' Telemaster and wished I never started. The covering is Monocote and real mess. I am finished with the stab and fin and there it sits. Recover can and is moore work that a new cover any day.

I would go back with clothe and paint!
Jul 30, 2012, 08:04 PM
Bellanca Kruesair
epoxyearl's Avatar
Yes indeed, replacing the covering is a difficult job..There is nothing easy about it.
An advantage,if you can call it that,is that you get to look at the structure,and see if there are problem areas that need to be taken care of.....glue joints to be redone,a cracked stringer,loose gear blocks.

Look in the laundry/cleaning section of your favorite box store for a couple of spray cans of "K2R" cleaning agent. Spray it on the oily mess at the engine compartment.It will 'boil' the oil to the top of the surface,and after it dries,you can brush and vacuum the residue off....It usually takes a couple of tries,and a good soaking overnight soon dries the wood up.

Some ARFs have covering well glued only at the edges,(great),and some have every square inch welded down(not so Great).
You will get to do more sanding than if you had built a kit,but more people are recovering a good airplane.
Jul 31, 2012, 09:35 AM
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Thread OP
No wonder I read about these projects being started and never finished. The main complaint I have with the covering is it sags on hot days in the sun. Not sure what it is exactly but the manufacturer didn't do much testing on sunny days I guess.
Jul 31, 2012, 10:01 AM
Bellanca Kruesair
epoxyearl's Avatar
Which is where the suggestion came from to use fabric...Two things will make most coverings sag-heat and humidity.
Humidity soaks the wood and it swells up,stretching the covering,when the wood dries out and shrinks,the covering sags.
Cloth coverings can absorb the swelling of the wood,by stretching..being somewhat elastic,when the wood shrinks,cloth goes to it's original state of taughtness.
Cloth is also very strong.It sometimes won't allow the wood to expand all that much.-well sealed cloth doesn't even allow moisture in.
If you're gonna keep that plane another 20 years.........you'll know what to do.
Jul 31, 2012, 10:04 AM
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Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by epoxyearl
Which is where the suggestion came from to use fabric...Two things will make most coverings sag-heat and humidity.
Humidity soaks the wood and it swells up,stretching the covering,when the wood dries out and shrinks,the covering sags.
Cloth coverings can absorb the swelling of the wood,by stretching..being somewhat elastic,when the wood shrinks,cloth goes to it's original state of taughtness.
Cloth is also very strong.It sometimes won't allow the wood to expand all that much.-well sealed cloth doesn't even allow moisture in.
If you're gonna keep that plane another 20 years.........you'll know what to do.
Very interesting, thanks. I guess it is more of an issue as the size of the plane increases.
Aug 03, 2012, 09:25 PM
DFC~ We Do Flyin' Right
Vapor Trails's Avatar
If you are going through the trouble, and I encourage you to as the results are quite rewarding, use fabric. it is no maintenance and stays tight and looks so much better on a cub than that plastic stuff IMO.

Here's mine in coverite; the stitchwork was a bit of extra detail

I love this first pic that was taken at my local airport. She really looks real with the other planes in the background; it started as a 1/4 H9
Aug 04, 2012, 06:24 AM
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rjstrickjr's Avatar
The coverite looks good. I prefere to use simple white and paint the color of choice. The already colored fabrics are see through or a litttle thin in areas. When you use white Solertex or Worltex then paint like a full scale, the transparincy goes away.
Aug 04, 2012, 07:08 AM
Bellanca Kruesair
epoxyearl's Avatar
I know where you're coming from !
I've just undertaken an ARF restoration,a Great Planes Stearman.,and I'm using Oracover (Ultracote)..The original Monocote was well-applied,and required some dedicated picking and sanding to remove it all.

The Ultracote is allowing too much light through for my taste,but the airplane is for fun,and no scale judge is gonna be casting a critical eye on it.

You can't compare Monocote and Ultracote. Ultracote is the easiest to apply,and will make you look like a pro.Compound curves are a breeze,and the shrinkability is amazing.I have an almost before shot-I'd already done the upper wing-but I'll keep you informed as we progress.

This started out with a Stihl 4 cycle gas conversion and went through several engines as a test bed for them.Currently a Fuji 34.
Aug 04, 2012, 10:31 AM
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mikmerl's Avatar
Guys it’s a real PITA to get the old film coverings off tired models. That freaking film can become very good friends with the model over the years.

The best is to be patient as there is no easy way.

I have done a few renovations recently and most of the gnashing of teeth and swearing were during the Monokote removal phase.

Do cut through the hinges so that you can treat each piece individually and then you can simply use new hinges to reattach the control surfaces once you have recovered them.

I tried a lot of different methods such as heat, chemicals etc. Don’t yank the film, you will just end up with small pieces and won’t have any progress. Try to go slowly to allow the adhesive to let go of the wood. Then I used packaging tape to remove the smaller more reluctant pieces. This worked very well for me, stick the packaging tape on the “reluctant” pieces and pull/yank it away. This should take a lot of the Monokote with it; keep doing this procedure with a fresh section of tape every time to take advantage of the un-spoilt adhesive.

Do not try to remove any residue with acetone etc. It melts the stuff and forces it into the wood and you end up with stained wood. Best method to remove the remaining residue is to sand it carefully away.

All the above is surly not fun but in the end you will be rewarded with a good clean airframe ready for recover.

I included an attachment showing a before and after photo of a much loved 30 year old ˝ A Q-Tee that I finished a few weeks ago. Now I am refurbishing/recovering a 20 year old Goldberg Ultimate Bipe.

mike
Aug 04, 2012, 10:39 AM
Bellanca Kruesair
epoxyearl's Avatar
I will say this-removing the covering is a lot easier than building a new model,and there's a satisfaction in bringing one 'back'.

Especially a beloved model that treats you well.
Aug 04, 2012, 02:47 PM
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rjstrickjr's Avatar
Earl,

I had a 50 CC on my super sterman and it was awsome!. Plenty of power It would flat spin so fast that it looked like a cieling fan on high.
Aug 04, 2012, 06:26 PM
DFC~ We Do Flyin' Right
Vapor Trails's Avatar
If possible, do remove hinges and cover control surfaces individually.

However I have done several coverings with hinges in place; one for example I had led wiring going through the hinge point and I did not want to have to rewire so I covered with the surfaces on. Details on the process I used are in this thread:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1502256
Aug 05, 2012, 08:13 AM
ARFs Are Me
TomCrump's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rjstrickjr
Earl,

I had a 50 CC on my super sterman and it was awsome!. Plenty of power .
Geez. I had a G-23 on mine, and I really liked the way it flew.
Aug 05, 2012, 12:31 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
I have decided to make this my winter project. Will be removing the G23 and going electric too as noise is a huge problem where I fly so I am hoping to reduce weight some. I have a set of Robart gear for her and will need find / make a new cowl too.


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