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Old Jul 25, 2012, 08:56 PM
tigreflyer is offline
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Best way to glue a wing into a profile fuselage?


I used to make sure all was aligned perfectly, and then spot glue the wing with instant glue. Then I used that nifty, no longer available Sig Epoxylite to fill in perfectly. Let it set overnight and it was good to go. It took about 10 or 12 minute to do a beautiful job. The last time I glued my Brodak P40 wing into place, it must have taken 10 or 15 applications of expoxy glue, and since I was using 2 hour expoxy it took DAYS to glue the wing into place. And the glue wanted to run all over the place with each application! There has to be a better way. What is the best way to glue a wing into a profile fuselage?
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Old Jul 25, 2012, 09:13 PM
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I just finished the bones to a Baby Flite Streak, first profile C/L job since I was a teen using Ambroid. I repeatedly shimmed the fuselage cut out until it fit the wing closely. I marked the wing with pencil along the fuselage seam, then pre-glued the cut out interior and the wing with furniture glue, sanding lightly when dry. Then I slid the wing most of the way on and spread a line of glue on the wing at the near line drawn and slid the wing over the glue and into position. Didn't need much filling, just an extra line of glue around the cut-out. No mess, tight and strong. Glue used was SIG-Bond and Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue.
Old Jul 25, 2012, 09:23 PM
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On my last build, a Brodak Baby Flite Streak, I tacked it in place with CA and then covered the whole joint with Titebond wood glue. It took another coat the next morning to fill some gaps. I made filets with drywall spackling, and when the it was dry and lightly sanded and shaped, I coated the filets with CA. It was instantly nice and hard and shiny. Next time I'm going to try Microballoon filler for the filets. I've heard good things about them.
Old Jul 25, 2012, 09:24 PM
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I tack the wing in place and then fill the joint on the outside wing with Sigment or Ambroid. I make sure there are no gaps for the epoxy to run out onto the outside wing. Then I apply a slow setting epoxy to the joint around the inside wing. I use a hair drier to warm the epoxy and make it runny, also to heat any air in the gap and have it bubble out. I make the gap as tight as possible, and make pin holes in the wing sheeting and the wing cut out in the fuselage to help the epoxy penetrate.
Old Jul 25, 2012, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigreflyer View Post
I used to make sure all was aligned perfectly, and then spot glue the wing with instant glue. Then I used that nifty, no longer available Sig Epoxylite to fill in perfectly. Let it set overnight and it was good to go. It took about 10 or 12 minute to do a beautiful job. The last time I glued my Brodak P40 wing into place, it must have taken 10 or 15 applications of expoxy glue, and since I was using 2 hour expoxy it took DAYS to glue the wing into place. And the glue wanted to run all over the place with each application! There has to be a better way. What is the best way to glue a wing into a profile fuselage?

Get the fit and alignment as close as possible and then hit it with cya. Use slow set epoxy mixed with microbaloons to make a nice fillet afterwards. Use denatured alky to smooth the fillet before it cures.
I have done this, and on a junked model, you couldn't break the wing/fuse joint apart with your hands with any force you could apply.

JK
Old Jul 25, 2012, 10:13 PM
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Jim's method stands the test of time


Longtime model builders used cements that way when we first began using better glues (than cement), for important joints. However, I cannot stress enough to get the cutout in the fuselage adjusted to a tight fit. Epoxy is HEAVY stuff! With the sloppy "die crunching" of the old pre-laser kits, I used plastic balsa and home-made varieties of it (balsa dust mixed into Ambroid) to build up the inner "faces" inside the wing opening, and sand it back away a little at a time to adjust fits to best closeness.

For a "nice" model, such as a P-40 profile stunt design (not limited to semi-scale Warhawks, just to a max 40 engine, and profile fuselage), when leather fillets are available, they are light, and convenient. Tack glue your wing in place after using square triangles to get the alignment set, apply the inboard fillet (or outboard) -- on the same side that the pushrod exits the inside of the wing, and let it dry. Then use a type of adhesive that remains in a liquid state long enough to penetrate well.

Titebond is pretty good, but if your joint is tightly fitted, may need to be thinned some with water to flow inside, instead of sitting on top of the joint like another fillet. I like my pushrods exiting on the outboard side, so I can hang a plane up by its leadouts while this joint dries.


Kiwi
Old Jul 26, 2012, 05:49 AM
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Like JKinTX I like to use slow epoxy & microballoons. I make sure the cut out for the wing is as close to the centre sheeting as possible, then spread the epoxy around the wing sheeting, slide the wing right through so the glue get all the way into the joint.

The next step makes sure the glue really does penetrate the joint all the way through. I do that with a heat gun so the epoxy turns very runny. This way it gets into every nook & cranny and increases the contact points. Finally clean up where the glue shouldn't be and tape any areas where the glue may run where it's not wanted. Then set up the model so the alignment doesn't change while the glue is setting.

Do your fillets however you like from here.

Regards

Greg
Old Jul 26, 2012, 09:26 AM
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How about the Polyurethane glues that foam up. That would be lighter and flexible, the foam would fill any voids, bamboo skewers to lock in for a sheet wing and your choice of fillets to cover up the oozings. The ooze can be formed slightly after a half hour or so to make a fillet too depending how fussy you are.
Old Jul 28, 2012, 04:42 PM
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just trim to a nice "snug fit" by taking a little at a time out of the hole in the fuselage and keep trying the wing..then just use regular PVA woodglue to fix...

then hand drill up through the profile fuse and wing and glue a couple of cocktail sticks or 1/8" dowels through the fuse and wing to pin the wing in place.... job done!

never ever had one fail even in 100mph profile racers!


d
Old Jul 28, 2012, 06:55 PM
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I can guarantee that the joint on my Baby Flite Streak will not come apart, ever. No messing around with runny, slow drying glues, a pre-glued aliphatic joint grabs quckly and dries pretty fast. The trick with any glue joint is a perfect fit. I used carpenter's glue on the wing/fuselage joint because of its higher solid content than the SIG glue. I preglued with the SIG.
Old Jul 28, 2012, 07:54 PM
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Aside from exposure to solvents and weight considerations, pretty much any wood joint will be stronger than all the wood around it, whether you use wood glue, epoxy, CA, or even old timey airplane glue. I've splintered lots of airframes and mostly it's just fresh wood that breaks.

On My Brodak BF Streak I tacked all the wing internals in place with CA and used Tite Bond wood glue, to fill it in and lay down long beads. I used every kind of glue in the shop on that plane before it was all over.
Old Jul 29, 2012, 08:24 PM
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Hmmm - CA is wonderful stuff ..

Cut the fuse for the wing , get the alignment right , make sure the contact areas are good , once the wing goes in straight and solid , just use some thin CA , then some gap filler CA ..
Then I use balsa filet's CA'ed in place , sand to a nice fit , and viola . Should be plenty strong .

Pinning the wing = Cant hurt
Old Jul 30, 2012, 09:32 PM
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Tack in place with CA. Make a fillet with 15 minute epoxy and micro balloons. Quick, easy and strong.
Old Jul 30, 2012, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jfv View Post
Tack in place with CA. Make a fillet with 15 minute epoxy and micro balloons. Quick, easy and strong.
AMEN Brother, testify!



JK
Old Jul 30, 2012, 10:55 PM
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I'll be darned! This sounds just like the way I originally described way back at the beginning of this thread when I used to use the no longer made Sig Epoxylite. That worked well, was quick and painless. TY all, I think I'll use micro baloons and epoxy glue next time.


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