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Old Oct 10, 2012, 07:19 PM
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i found some telescopic tubing at a tag sale but it only could be used for the timing system. also it was realy tarnished and cleaning it up so it would slide nice again would reduce the size. this may sound silly but a buffing compound and a cloth dose reduce the size which can be seen with a micrometer. i will be tacking CAD in a couple months and I'll be able to post some of my ideas for the engine. what size servo should i get for the rudder? i should be able to get aproximetly the same amount of power as from the gas engine. I've also started working on a dual rudder setup.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 09:13 PM
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is anybody reading this anymore? i know it's kind of boring but i do need some help. i've got a big problem, i'm starting to get board of the boat. what to do?
Old Oct 18, 2012, 10:15 PM
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There isn't much going on in boating once the weather start to get ugly! But its a good time to build for next season
Old Oct 21, 2012, 07:34 PM
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has anyone seen any valves that could be used for compressed air/CO2 at that could be turned with a servo (so preferably not the screw type) and could change the pressure from 0-125psi. it can't leek (or at least not much) or else the rapid pressure loss will make frost grow on the paintball canister i plan on using. i though that i had found it in a kit for motorizing a bike (gas shutoff valve) but it's a weird valve that is only open in one spot(even though it's not a screw valve) and it dose not have any setting between full open and closed.
Old Oct 21, 2012, 11:40 PM
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Try industrial valves as they're made for high pressure. It may take one strong servo to move it though. Look for one that only takes 1/4 turn to open fully.
If frosting the tank ever becomes a problem then possibly water-warming it by using the rudder pickup would be an option. I'm just thinking out loud here.
Old Oct 22, 2012, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Olson View Post
Try industrial valves as they're made for high pressure. It may take one strong servo to move it though. Look for one that only takes 1/4 turn to open fully.
If frosting the tank ever becomes a problem then possibly water-warming it by using the rudder pickup would be an option. I'm just thinking out loud here.
that's a good idea to warm the tank water is good idea! i've never seen a small enough industrial valve but i'll keep looking. most of those are so hard to turn though, i've used sum that i had to struggle to turn and it was new! i've tried maching an air regulator but air molecules are so small! my valves were leaking with only a .005" tolerance! here's the valve that i think i'll put on the tank: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-CO2...item3f081c59b6
i know it doesn't go to low in pressure (i though the smaller numbers were PSI ) but i know that i had found an even lower pressure valve from those guys. after i found that link i now think that aquarium valves will be good because they're usually pretty easy to turn and don't leak.
Old Oct 22, 2012, 04:23 PM
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found it!!!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/CO2-REGULATO...item3f12c62414
Old Oct 22, 2012, 11:44 PM
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Yeah, that's why I said that you'd probably need a high-torque servo to turn one of those valves, probably a heavy-duty 1/4-scale. I don't know if you'd need the full shot of CO2 or not so if not, most valves would be hard to open fully with a servo. An aquarium style has to be simpler and easier to operate if it can handle the pressure.
Old Oct 23, 2012, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Olson View Post
Yeah, that's why I said that you'd probably need a high-torque servo to turn one of those valves, probably a heavy-duty 1/4-scale. I don't know if you'd need the full shot of CO2 or not so if not, most valves would be hard to open fully with a servo. An aquarium style has to be simpler and easier to operate if it can handle the pressure.
i think they will because both the tank valve and the in-line valves are made for controlling compressed CO2. at least i hope it will. i thank you guys for helping me to regain intrest in my boat.
Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:01 PM
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i think they will because both the tank valve and the in-line valves are made for controlling compressed CO2. at least i hope it will. i thank you guys for helping me to regain intrest in my boat.
never mind, they're for 8.5 psi!
Old Oct 30, 2012, 03:25 PM
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i found a valve that leaks 5CFM @ 100 PSI which i think is the best i'll be able to find inexpensively. i think with a bit of vasaline the leek rate could be lowered.
Old Oct 30, 2012, 08:35 PM
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You may be able to tune it up with O rings, sandpaper or something as well for better performance.
Old Nov 02, 2012, 05:54 PM
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You may be able to tune it up with O rings, sandpaper or something as well for better performance.
what would i sand to make it fit better?
Old Nov 04, 2012, 12:14 AM
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The mating surfaces of the valve, usually there is some type of needle that rests in a seat when the valve is in the closed position. I hope I explained that somewhat clearly.
Old Nov 07, 2012, 07:25 PM
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i don't think it's a needle valve setup. look: http://www.eautotools.com/MIL-S638-p/mil-s638.htm looks more like the type with a rod through the middle and a whole in it.


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