Originally Posted by w2hef

Thanks guys for your help in this... I will no longer post here. I don't want to take up to much of your time. I will take this up with support.

If this forum isn't for help than what is it for to stroke the egos of those that don't need any? The people with more experience should also practice more patience and help idiots like myself so I don’t make a new system look bad.

Robert

Originally Posted by tazmoe

I’m asking because in my setup the weight of cord of the IMU is causing it to lean at a slight angle I tried supporting it but it is still being effected. So would I be better off just mounting it to the frame without the pad so it would remain in the same plane as the frame?

Thanks,
Robert

Hi Robert

No one is using the IMU anti-vibration pad. You must use double sided tape. I don't know why they supply it, but it has been mentioned a number of times that this not be used as it caused vibration problems.

It is also suggested that you locate the IMU alongside or above the Auto Pilot. The IMU must be located at the centre of the system

Rob

Originally Posted by robone

Hi Robert

No one is using the IMU anti-vibration pad. You must use double sided tape. I don't know why they supply it, but it has been mentioned a number of times that this not be used as it caused vibration problems.

It is also suggested that you locate the IMU alongside or above the Auto Pilot. The IMU must be located at the centre of the system

Rob

Because of space restrictions of the X650 frame I placed the IMU as pictured below (it is sitting on the first layer of the frame inside the center hole) with the Auto Pilot actually sitting above it on the next layer. I thought it might be better to have the IMU closer to the center of the craft. Would I be better off swapping their positions?

Thanks,
Robert

Originally Posted by tazmoe

Because of space restrictions of the X650 frame I placed the IMU as pictured below (it is sitting on the first layer of the frame inside the center hole) with the Auto Pilot actually sitting above it on the next layer. I thought it might be better to have the IMU closer to the center of the craft. Would I be better off swapping their positions?

Thanks,
Robert

Hi Robert

I am using a similar frame and initially I placed the IMU below the AP. I then change it to above the AP and the performace was a lot better.

Someone I know also placed the AP above the IMU and he had endless problems with stability and vibration and then opened up the system and found that there is a lot of EMI from the underside of the AP which could be causing interference with the IMU. He has changed his system so that the IMU now is above the AP. I am still waiting for feedback from him on the results. As soon as I get the feedback, I will let you know.

Rob

There's no one here in Buffalo that knows anything about these quads... just basic RC stores that are amazed when i come in with one.

However, I was able to take my older Futaba PCM1024 T8UAF with channel 58 modules and hook it up. No problem... Instant channel alignment.

now working on vertical and horz and final steps.

Originally Posted by Andre6553

We are all here to help like rob say get someone near you and went through the stages to set up correct.

My iphone also say arming as off,

I wish the iphone software can been sorted out about the map tools that does not show up when connected.

Originally Posted by robone

Hi Robert

I am using a similar frame and initially I placed the IMU below the AP. I then change it to above the AP and the performace was a lot better.

Someone I know also placed the AP above the IMU and he had endless problems with stability and vibration and then opened up the system and found that there is a lot of EMI from the underside of the AP which could be causing interference with the IMU. He has changed his system so that the IMU now is above the AP. I am still waiting for feedback from him on the results. As soon as I get the feedback, I will let you know.

Rob

Hi Rob,
I've tried to create an EMI shield by exopying Scotch Electrical Shielding tape to the underside of the plywood (photo below) but I can't think of a way to actual test how well it works.

Thanks,
Robert

Originally Posted by w2hef

There's no one here in Buffalo that knows anything about these quads... just basic RC stores that are amazed when i come in with one.

However, I was able to take my older Futaba PCM1024 T8UAF with channel 58 modules and hook it up. No problem... Instant channel alignment.

now working on vertical and horz and final steps.

I'm using a HiTec Aurora 9 Tx/Rx and if I know now what I didn't know then I would have bought a Futaba. It sounds like there is going to be a lot of addition information to be gained from the Futaba Sbus. Nothing against the Aurora itself it just sounds like I'll be missing out because of no Sbus feature.

Robert

Originally Posted by tazmoe

I'm using a HiTec Aurora 9 Tx/Rx and if I know now what I didn't know then I would have bought a Futaba. It sounds like there is going to be a lot of addition information to be gained from the Futaba Sbus. Nothing against the Aurora itself it just sounds like I'll be missing out because of no Sbus feature.

Robert

Fatuba has a unit that you can convert a regular rx into s-bus.

Here is the unit

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...3&d=1345133817
Its the fatuba SBE-1 unit

Manual
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...mentid=5086749

My quad is very stable but i paying the price in weight 2.8kg with gimbal and gopro.

The results are i only get about 4min flight time on a nanotech 3s 4000mah bat

I want to build a hex or a octo to be able to lift the weight much more savely and i will swich over to 4s batt

Originally Posted by tazmoe

I don’t know about anyone else but I’m having a hard time deciphering from the manual the correct setup/init procedures to insure that I have covered all the bases setting up the YS-X6 properly. As an example the compass calibration took me a while to figure out so that is why I wrote up a procedure.

Maybe we could post an editable version of the manual somewhere and those who wanted could put in the various procedures for performing certain functions and how to know when it is done properly?

Such as
1) When do I use the Zero Gyro function? How do I know it was successful?
2) Same with the Neutral Position
3) What is the Overload Control for?
4) How do I determine the proper Steering Gear Frequency?

Thanks,
Robert

That's a great idea.
A wiki
The information is now spread across 4 threads, 2000+ post.
I read them all over a week and made some notes applicable to myself.
It really should be maintained by ZeroUAV but I guess that the price we pay, or don't pay, for a lower cost system.
I will see what is available.

Originally Posted by tazmoe

Hi Rob,
I've tried to create an EMI shield by exopying Scotch Electrical Shielding tape to the underside of the plywood (photo below) but I can't think of a way to actual test how well it works.

Thanks,
Robert

That's a tough one to test without the right equipment.
Shielding needs to be grounded to be effective.
Electrically connect it to the ground of the device you are trying to shield.
Although the whole system shares a common ground.

Easy test would be get a small fm radio.
Tune to the weakest station you can.
Put it near the offending device and see if the signal goes scratchy.
Turn the device off, any difference?
Attach the shield, any difference?
Not the most scientific test but it would show some effect.

Originally Posted by tazmoe

I’m asking because in my setup the weight of cord of the IMU is causing it to lean at a slight angle I tried supporting it but it is still being effected. So would I be better off just mounting it to the frame without the pad so it would remain in the same plane as the frame?

Thanks,
Robert

I originally used the pad too.
But after sorting out major vibration issues with my frame I could hard mount it.


w2hef and other with RX problems.
This might be your solution
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...us-PWM-Adapter
PWM > SBus adaptor.
I was looking into this option so I can get more data out of the system.
Using SBus allow you to input motor RPM data into the spare PWM in channels.
edit: darn, I can't find where I read this.

Originally Posted by Mr_westie

That's a great idea.
A wiki
The information is now spread across 4 threads, 2000+ post.
I read them all over a week and made some notes applicable to myself.
It really should be maintained by ZeroUAV but I guess that the price we pay, or don't pay, for a lower cost system.
I will see what is available.


Using SBus allow you to input motor RPM data into the spare PWM in channels.
edit: darn, I can't find where I read this.

You saw it in the manual under the "Power Management module & Speed sensor" section. Thats when I started kicking myself in the rear for not buying a Futabu. I'll have to educate myself about the sbus since I no nothing about it.

I'll try your (great) FM radio idea I think that would at least give me an idea if it is working or not.

Thanks,
Robert

Originally Posted by Andre6553

Here is the unit

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...3&d=1345133817
Its the fatuba SBE-1 unit

Manual
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...mentid=5086749

I'll have to look into this.
Robert

Originally Posted by tazmoe

I'll have to look into this.
Robert

Hey Robert,

Your really starting to get the hang of it!. For the shields for emi I use copper foil tape you can get on ebay for 7-8 for a 50ft roll say11/2 wide. Also local music shops that sell guitars should have it. All my ships have it to isolate the electronics as much as possible.

Originally Posted by tazmoe

Hi Rob,
I've tried to create an EMI shield by exopying Scotch Electrical Shielding tape to the underside of the plywood (photo below) but I can't think of a way to actual test how well it works.

Thanks,
Robert

Why don't you leave the AP located on the plate and relocate the IMU to sit on top of the AP. We all know that that works well. Will take about 2 minutes to do, and there will be no worries then about any interference. I believe that the underside of the IMU is so well protected against any interference. Comments made by this person was it is the best made system around. Timecop also made similar comments when he stripped each module.