$50 US, I have one on the way, or 20 US for just the disc for static display or replacement/wear.
I saw that kickstand, not bad, I think it was on the fairing? I will look again. I might make up a balsa Yamaha FZR genesis motor, or whatever works. The new C/F frame I am making may have a cradle for a scale motor to go in, and it would be great if I could fit my ESC in the Hollows of the scale motor.
Just a thought, there is 2 inches of snow outside.

Here is a photo of my nitro conversion ( I hope the photo shows up ok). Here is a quick run down on the whole bike. I am going to try and post a series of beter quality photos in the gallery.

I vacuum bagged some carbon fiber and routered out a new design for the side plates and the rear clip. I also made a new set of servo plates. The side plates have a new shape that incorporates the pico .15 motor. The motor mounts are machined out of aluminum and slide on the shafts that the kit came with to hold the battery. I also routered a curved slot on the bottom motor mount screw. This allows the motor to pivot so I can accomadate a variety of gears. The rear clips are shaped more to the design of the body. The servo plates are for the micro servos and is extended to the rear shock mount. There is a CF mount for the remote fuel filler located where our real bikes gas cap is. I had to machine out the pocket in the swing arm so i could move the shock over to the right side. This allows the manifold to pass. I turned an exhaust tip and mounted it with a CF arrow shaft to act as a muffler. The shocks are now upside down forks (I will post the process soon). They are the original shocks just a few mods and the shaft gets turned over so the threads are used for the axle mounts. Disk brakes are in the pipe line. There is an electric fan(3rd channel). remote glow starter and fuel filter are on the right side. The steering damper has no binding due to the use of a shock spring collar that rotates as well as the ball joints. I also have a kevlar belt that tensions on the clutch bell as a rear brake. The pegs are functional. The riders feet mount over them. This allows me to pick the bike up by the rider. They also look cool. CF fenders are coming. And too many other small details to mention. All still to be tested. The tank and battery pack are mounted to the lower motor mount with two l shaped CF plates. This lets the motor, tank and battery come out as one unit. The pipe mount is simply wire dipped in plastic coat tool handle rubber. It secures with two collars thru the tail sections body post. The receiver will be located on the right front servo plate or inside the rider. Although I might be taking a dremel to the rider and cut a bunch of sections out in order to save wieght. Depends if I can devise a way to get him in a suit. Next is new tires, font and rear and making some molds so I can manufacture a couple of different body styles. And it goes on and on. Thanks for the insperation Ywingie!

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Holy SNIKES! now thats tricking a bike out, Whoa!

I forgot to mention that I added a CF disk to the rear wheel as a rear disk brake. It also acts as a spacer because the swing arm was moved slightly to make room for the bearing holder that was moved to the inside. This allowed me to bring the gears in closer to the bike. Less likly to drag. This will also help when i make my two speed tranny conversion.

mo

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I start the motor with a cordless drill that has a dremel drum sander attached to a short rod. The sandpaper drum is not used, only the rubber drum. I have an access hole located next to the fly wheel. Lots of torque in the cordless drill. Spins the motor very easily. This allows me to run lighter and not have the pull starter sticking out the other side.

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That last one is the bell crank that controls the rear brake and handles the rotory carb. Ironicaly, I thought I had ordered a slide carb motor. I ended up receiving the rotory carb instead. Well this made the linkage issue a bit more complex. If it had not been for that issue I don't think I would have developed the belt brake system that SIMPLY LOOPS AROUND THE CLUTCH BELL. The bell crank is alum and I bored it out to accept bearings. Smooth as silk. The belt is loose on the bell and as the belt stretches it gets tighter. As the throttle is advanced the belt wantd to assume its original shape. Seems to work so far.

Go to your local golf shop and ask if they will part with a broken Carbon fiber shaft. They make for really nice exhaust cans. Just make an alum tip etc......

Originally posted by steliosh
I managed to scratch a leg of the rider, and the right side of the undertray of the fairing.

but its VERY eager to lean, due to the triangular front tire I guess... I already put the GRP tires on, so it's ready for the next session...

The first scratches of many most likely

The GRP tires will make a world of difference in handling!

STeve B in NC