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Aug 16, 2012, 08:20 AM
Semper Fidelis...........
Twinboom's Avatar
Rick, I am waiting for the others like Danno to chime in. I think that would be a good place to start. You decide after the mold for the whole fuse is done, and after you get the inlaid part of the fuse set that will receive the belly pan mold, if that is too much, or not enough layers. Generally match the layup of the part that came out of the fuse mold, but that is yet to come.

Doogie

P.S. I will call you at the end of my work day today.
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Aug 16, 2012, 02:59 PM
Registered User
ISRDAN's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwemmer
OK so I am ready to lay up the first belly pan. Will the first layer be 1 ounce cloth followed by 3 layers of 6 ounce cloth?

Sherpa
That sounds good to me.
Try to get away from to much epoxy !!!
A trick I use is to apply a paper towl as my last layer to soke up the extra epoxy,
Trash the wet paper towl
ALLWAYS keep this in mind build LIGHT !!!!! I'm still working on that myself.

Some buddy once said you can fly a man hole cover with enough wind.
I say, with out enough wind I'ts just a man hole cover.
Aug 16, 2012, 06:29 PM
Sherpa
Schwemmer's Avatar
Thread OP
OK I'll lay one up tonight and see what comes out.
Aug 25, 2012, 03:17 PM
Sherpa
Schwemmer's Avatar
Thread OP
just a little more work on the plug today. starting on the fuse portion now that the belly pan is completed.
Aug 25, 2012, 03:19 PM
Sherpa
Schwemmer's Avatar
Thread OP
Next step add the belly pan
Aug 25, 2012, 03:20 PM
Sherpa
Schwemmer's Avatar
Thread OP
With Doug's help and his CNC machine I have a wing blank to fit and adjust all of the parts.
Aug 25, 2012, 03:21 PM
Sherpa
Schwemmer's Avatar
Thread OP
Now the question is do I glass the center section of the fuse and bondo, or do I just "BONDO it man"

Sherpa
who is in over his head.
Aug 25, 2012, 05:19 PM
Registered User
ISRDAN's Avatar
Light glass is a good way to go.
When you cut the cores did you allow for the wood sheeting ? Balsa .078 = 1/16
It maybe a good idea to finish the wing ( sample piece ) or if the foam core sheeting was set at 0. you can get away with just covering it with packing tap.

Some times I say just go for it, but not this time.
You can do it but take your time. Make sure the fuse is setting square on the wing and not leaning from one side or the other.
Remember Carl and Brian talking about a plane in level flight. The fuse should be pointing just a little down.

Doug is pretty good with this stuff if he could look over your shoulder while you work it would be great but he needs to be hands off. The best way to learn and build confidence is to do as much as possible yourself and refer to others for advice. All's good so far.
Aug 26, 2012, 03:02 AM
Jim in San Diego
Pismo's Avatar
1/16 = .078? Is that some new kinda metric or sumpin?
Aug 26, 2012, 12:12 PM
Registered User
ISRDAN's Avatar
( .78 )
some years back the United States and countries of the Commonwealth of Nations defined the length of the international inch (in) is to be exactly 25.4 millimeters (mm) .

1/16 = 1.5875
1/32 = .79375

But what do they know about burn out
wire temp, speed , wire thickness.

Finaly someone out there is busting my chops. Allways welcome
Aug 26, 2012, 04:02 PM
Semper Fidelis...........
Twinboom's Avatar

Two Cents


As Dan mentioned, Carl and Brian have taught us to set the incidence between the wing and the tail group, so the plane appears to be flying slightly nose down, when those two angles are at zero to each other. With that being said, I would take a rough sanding bar, 50-60 grit, and with the fuse/plug upside down, work the bar from side to side until the wing saddle is level. After you reach that, I would take just a wee bit more out with a smaller block, and then glass the saddle with two layers of thin glass.
The next thing you need to do is sheet the wing blank. Make sure you shape/install the leading edge bock as well. When that is ready, put clear wrap or packing tape along the top of the wing. Mix up some bondo, and slop it on the fuse/plug saddle, and press the wing blank onto it until it sets. The extra bondo will flow out and over the sides, I usually lay a few coats of tape along the side of the wing fillets, so the bondo overflow is easier to clean up. Right before it sets up, pull the tape, and it usually pulls the overflow bondo off with it from around fillet area. Does that make sense??
Last but not least, after the bondo kicks, smooth off the fillets on the plug to a point where there is no "slag" or overflow, check your fit of the wing blank, and then mix up one more batch of bondo to fill any voids left after the first round. Call me if you don't understand anything.
Maybe I can come out tomorrow afternoon. I have a dr's appointment in the a.m., but could probably swing out your way afterwards. Let me know.

Doug

P.S. I always use a metal ruler when I am cutting foam wings to assist in converting thousandths to milimeters. The software I have for my CNC uses MM's for everything.
Last edited by Twinboom; Aug 26, 2012 at 04:19 PM.
Aug 26, 2012, 04:25 PM
Semper Fidelis...........
Twinboom's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwemmer
just a little more work on the plug today. starting on the fuse portion now that the belly pan is completed.
Rick, just throwing this out there, but the angle that you started with on the rear part of the saddle cut out, I am thinking I would have continued that out to the end, as opposed to making it a 90 degree cut as you have in the photo. I would also continue an angle on the front part of the leading edge as well. When you mold 90 degree entry points to the saddle area, it sems that tends to be a weaker part of the mold. Someone else can chime in on this hopefully as well. I will copy the photo and edit it to show you what I mean, then repost it here.

Doug
Last edited by Twinboom; Aug 26, 2012 at 04:33 PM.
Aug 27, 2012, 12:38 AM
Composites guy
Rick- Doug's concern is that the fuse becomes more notch sensitive and the belly pan will need a tight fit to hit both 90 degree angles at the same time.
Valid thoughts.
If you want to stay with what you have, the fuse can be reinforced at that point to address this. Once you know where the belly pan indexes to the fuse, you can make some front and back 90 degree edges for the belly pan tool. This will give a molded 90 degree edge front and back on the belly pan. Clear?
Like this:
(rear edge) _I______(belly pan)___________I(front edge).

This will allow you to make perfect edges for the belly pan to fuse joints.

Cheers
Scott
Aug 27, 2012, 09:11 AM
Registered User
ISRDAN's Avatar
Rick just take a look at the slope scale cobra hatch. Look at the fuse, see how the fuse was made to recieve the hatch. I hope that helps
Aug 27, 2012, 09:47 AM
Sherpa
Schwemmer's Avatar
Thread OP
Doug and Dan,

got it. I am working on the angle so it will be at a 45 instead of 90. However Linda and I will be out of town this week so no more work on it till next weekend.

Sherpa


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