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Jul 25, 2012, 07:12 AM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
You're right about the Torx screws handling the driving forces better, I just haven't stumbled across them yet in the 3mm-0.5 x 6mm size yet.

The fact that most of the 3mm tapped holes that I put the screws in are in aluminum is also a consideration. When I tighten the screws with only 4-5 threads of engagement I have to remember that I am approaching the threshhold where the threads will be stripped out of the aluminum by the steel screws.

Jack
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Jul 25, 2012, 07:51 AM
Registered User
flypaper 2's Avatar
Ran across this torkscrew set at Princess Auto, one of our larger hardware stores up here. Not sure of their sizing system but the smallest one shows CRVT6 stamped into it and measures 2MM across the tip. Upper end is the standard 1/4 in. drive. May show up in Home Depot or some such.

Gord.
Jul 25, 2012, 08:23 AM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
The Torx wrench numbers, T1 to T100, are arbitrarily assigned. So the number does not really relate to anything you can measure on the wrench or socket.

The T6 you measure at 2mm is for a socket that, by the specs, is 1.7mm across the socket point-to-point. The specs on the T7 say it is 1.9mm point-to-point.

http://www.wihatools.com/Marketing/torxspec.htm

Of course, there will be tolerances so the wrenches fit sockets and the like and measurements will vary a little.

The Trox drive is a good system. It probably applies more driving forces perpendicular to the rotation than hex, square, spline, or any other screw drive system. Now if we can just get everyone to use it everywhere...

Jack
Jul 26, 2012, 07:04 PM
Registered User
Nawww.. Torx is largely a GM affectation. Mercifully
Jul 27, 2012, 12:58 AM
Registered User
Dennis Everett's Avatar
im not sure why but ive used the type allen drivers the rc car guys use , they work much better , also like was said above , heat it up a bit , will soften loctite if it was used to make removing easier ....
Jul 27, 2012, 01:01 AM
SUPERB RC CRASH MASTER
rc crashburn's Avatar

Avoid rigging in the 1st place


The short answer is take the time to find VERY TIGHTLY fitting wrenches.
Avoid temptation to whomp down on it if your wrench has ANY slop at all.
Jul 27, 2012, 06:30 AM
Suspended Account
AMC Jeep introduced the world to Torx in the late 70's and now there every where.
Jul 27, 2012, 09:07 PM
Registered User
lectroglide's Avatar
sometimes I have to use a thin dremel wheel and cut right down the middle of the hole and into the screw then use a small jewlers driver to get the bugger out, dont laugh it worx
Jul 29, 2012, 01:12 AM
Suspended Account
Now that the screw is out where can I find small metric set screws ? I think 2.5mmX5mmX.45mm


Got lucky today and broke a motor shaft and what do you know, the screw has Loctite from He... on it. Heating got to a point of concern and it wouldn't budge with the best wrench and finally stripped. I have a set of larger extraction tools with a similar profile to the Torx bit which gave me this this idea. I drilled into the screw using cutting oil and few of dull drill bits later bottomed out on the way over hardened shaft. I found a fresh bit a little smaller than the Torx bit. Once the hole was opened up I tapped the Torx in until I felt it bite. With reheating and a good grab on the screw it came out. Saved the motor from the parts pile.
Last edited by zeroback; Jul 29, 2012 at 10:11 AM.
Jul 29, 2012, 05:06 AM
Registered User
icarus46's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer
I've just rounded off yet another couple of shaft retaining set-screws (grub screws to those of us in the UK) while attempting to remove a motor shaft
I'm using a new good quality allen key but yet again I'm going to have to drill the screws out (which is always a bit of a worrying job). Is it just me, am I doing something wrong?

Maybe i should heat the part to soften any locking compound before trying to shift them?

Steve
If you have them, use a ball end allen wrench to remove them. Sometimes a quick jolt to the wrench will pop them loose.
Aug 03, 2012, 10:12 AM
Registered User
old or cheap allen wrenches, soft grub screws, too much or too high-strength thread lock compound... all cause problems ... and don't mix metric with imperial allen keys ...

applying heat from soldering iron is always a good 1st port of call ...
Aug 04, 2012, 08:37 AM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
"..and don't mix metric with imperial allen keys..."

Except in the case of forcing a 1/16" wrench into a 1.5mm socket that has been molested by the unwise use of a 1.5mm ball ended wrench, a loose fitting wrench, or a locking compound that has not given up yet.

Jack
Aug 04, 2012, 09:26 AM
Registered User
Another old trick is to put some valve grinding compound in the hex hole, then try and wrench it out. It helps close the "slop," so you can apply torque to the screw.
Aug 04, 2012, 10:11 AM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfaulguy
Another old trick is to put some valve grinding compound in the hex hole, then try and wrench it out. It helps close the "slop," so you can apply torque to the screw.
Another fellow some where mention A&P guys have a compound specifically for cammed out fastener head's, one of the ingredients is diamond dust. VG compound sounds cheaper.
Aug 05, 2012, 09:16 AM
Suspended Account
Great information here, it inspired me to post this in another section.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...4#post22360875

VP


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