Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 07:10 PM
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Cool Mike!! Will be great if you can make it to SEFF next year!! Rita's,,, Hummmm,,, I've been known to make a few here and there!!:

Will be lookin forward to your pics! W
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 10:25 PM
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Mike
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Okay so here's a few pics of my start on the fuse. I made the fuse sides top and bottom (double layer of 6mm depron), formers (single layer) and temp formers.

Joe, does the excess portion of fuse formers 1 and 2 look normal? I can't tell from your build pics if this is how it is before fleshing out the bottom. Do I need to fill in the sides to be flush with the bottom?

I also pinned the wing, stab and rudder to the fuse to get an idea of the size.
Old Sep 14, 2012, 05:54 AM
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hey Mike,
I did have excess formers sticking out of the bottom, after glue-up I sanded the bottom along with the formers flat for adding the bottom planking, dont remember quite that much hanging out though..think you found a flaw in the plans...where'd ya get those anyway
I think you should be fine just sanding them and the fuse sides down flat, probably didnt notice it as much on mine cause its quite a bit smaller, the bottom planking adds quite a bit of thickness and they are sanded to match the angle of the sides so you should be good to go.

wont be too long now you're almost there

Joe
Old Sep 18, 2012, 05:44 PM
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Mike
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I have permanently glued on the wing and installed formers 3 and 4. I have also cut and glued the top sheeting on the fuse. Working on sanding and rounding the corners. Will tackle either completing the aileron installation or the inlet section and fuse bottom next. Pics soon.
Last edited by i12flyrc; Sep 19, 2012 at 08:38 AM.
Old Sep 19, 2012, 08:44 PM
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Mike
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Below are some pics of the work on the fuse to date and the nose. I think I am going to do some of this differently than Joe at this point. Instead of the wax paper method he used to be able to remove the entire bottom section so that he wouldn't have to do a hatch, given the size of this version, I will be building the bottom section with a hatch for the fan. As such I am going to attach the nose at this point and round to shape, work on the splitter next followed up with the rear fuse sides for the fan area, skin the inlets and the bottom of the fan and tailpipe areas.

I have been looking at this for a bit and think its very doable. Joe's method makes perfect sense for the original size he built and I would do the same. But at this size, it has plenty of room to build it out hatch and all.
Old Sep 19, 2012, 11:30 PM
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holllly molllly!!!!! kinda hard to get a good grasp on the size from the previous pics....but with your hand in the photo it really brings out just how big it is...WOW that is COOL! very nice work Mike!

Joe
Old Sep 21, 2012, 01:52 PM
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Joe, I have a question about the HK 50mm's I just ordered 2 of them in the 3s version for an A10 build. How is your holding up? I ordered the Red brick 30 amp ESC,s, they where out of the 20 amp version. I am thinking I might try to run the twin set up on 3s 2200. Any input? Thanks, Greg
Old Sep 21, 2012, 06:18 PM
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hey Greg,
they are both holding up just fine, the 30amp ESC's should be fine they dont weigh but 5gs more I think, as far as the batt I wanna say the 2200mah weighs just about as much as 2 X 1000mah 3s batts, so you should be ok there too, if you can get an AUW of 20oz's it should fly awesome, 20-25ozs should fly no prob, just a rough estimate of your equipment weight will be about 11oz's, if you can do the airframe at 9oz's you would be sitting pretty good, about a 35" wingspan size or there abouts, I think it could be done if you can refrain from the urge to add anything more than a wing spar for strengthening.
keep us posted on your progress

Joe
Old Sep 22, 2012, 01:20 AM
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Thanks Joe, I started building this afternoon. I am trying very hard to go as light as possible. i will start a build log, I got the wing done tonight. Greg
Old Sep 25, 2012, 09:40 AM
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Mike
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Joe,
I have the inlet diverter completed as well as the F4 temp former and fan fuse sides on. Looking at getting the nose and the inlet sides done next. You don't have a template for those on the plans. Did you just free form it til you got the right shape or is there a template you can post?
Old Sep 25, 2012, 02:01 PM
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sorry Mike, no template, I cut two layers per intake, layer #1 was 4 1/8" X 8" and layer #2 was 4 1/4" X 8", used spray adhesive and epoxy both to add them one layer at a time, kinda why I did the wax paper thing while building it...case I didnt like how it came out I could remove it without tearing anything up
you should be able to scale those dimensions up and that should give you an idea on if you need to make them bigger or smaller..they are rectangle shape so nothing fancy about them.

Joe
Old Sep 25, 2012, 03:03 PM
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Mike
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Thanks Joe! That helps. I have a method for rolling depron using a pipe or broom handle. I think I picked it up from one of J Morgan's threads maybe. Anyway, I should be able to get the shape before gluing anything. Stay Tuned.
Old Sep 25, 2012, 09:50 PM
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Good luck Mike, rolling that foam is easy, I use a piece of PVC put foam against the front of me then apply pressure with the PVC and roll,, works great... Heading for HHAEFI in two weeks... W
Old Sep 26, 2012, 08:21 PM
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Mike
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Got the nose attached and carved ( it will get a light coat of spackle then sand it off again). I put the stab and rudder on again to get a look. She's taking shape.

Joe, I'm still stuggling a bit trying to get started on the inlets. I can't tell from the views if there is a bottom section from the fan area to the diverter or if the rolled inlet sections make up the bottom as well. Do you have any more pics that might show that section of the build beyond what has bee posted already?

Inlets, fuse bottom and fan section are next. Then I will complete the flying stab,turtle deck and canopy.

Walt, what's HAEFI ??
Old Sep 26, 2012, 08:28 PM
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get r done all ready gees

Just kidding. Awsome work


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