AC-119K Stinger based on Palmer plans - Page 6 - RC Groups
Shop our Airplanes Products Drone Products Sales
Thread Tools
Jul 19, 2012, 08:57 PM
Registered User
Waltjg's Avatar
Moving right along there John!!! Such a cool project! Well,, here it comes again with this, yet a bigger plane yet,,,,, gona have to go to a bigger trailllllerrrrrrr w
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Jul 19, 2012, 10:23 PM


Originally Posted by J Morgan

Then work the corners with microfibers/resin mix because you'll never get that sharp corner with glass. The I put small patches of 3/4 glass over the corners and then small patches of 3 oz glass over them too, build up the corners. One layer of 3/4 cloth over the entire piece for a smooth inside finish and you are ready for heavy cloth for the rest of the layup. It takes a lot of heavy glass to build up the strength to be able to pull pieces from the molds. My molds ar about 1/8" thick.


It doesn't look like you wait for each layer of resin/glass to cure before applying the next layer, .... or do you?

Jul 19, 2012, 11:47 PM
Senile Member
Lnagel's Avatar
Great tutorial on constructing a fuselage from fiberglass. Thank you very much for posing it. One question. What adhesive did you use to laminate the 2" blue foam for the fuselage blank?

Jul 20, 2012, 05:30 AM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Nope Walt,
Not a bigger trailer, just fewer planes.

Once you start laying glass you don't stop. Epoxy doesn't like to stick to cured epoxy. If you had stopped to let one layer cure then you would have the sand the heck out of it in order to make the next layer stick. It can be very intensive because once you start, there is no stopping until you're done.

Thanks Larry,
I used 3M to laminate the blank but it didn't do very well. The stresses in the foam wanted to split the pieces apart and I wound up slipping some epoxy into a few places. It was such a big foam blank that I hated to use epoxy, it would have taken a whole set of 9 oz tubes.

Jul 20, 2012, 09:00 AM
Registered User
W. X. Davis's Avatar
Hey Walt, all he has to do is load the models into the back of this thing and just fly 'em around.

J, man, those props are shhweeet.

Last edited by W. X. Davis; Jul 20, 2012 at 09:11 AM.
Jul 20, 2012, 12:29 PM
I don't do Normal
Pinky_d_brain's Avatar
Originally Posted by J Morgan
Thanks Larry,
I used 3M to laminate the blank but it didn't do very well. The stresses in the foam wanted to split the pieces apart and I wound up slipping some epoxy into a few places. It was such a big foam blank that I hated to use epoxy, it would have taken a whole set of 9 oz tubes.
I have used regular white glue for this seemed to work well, I was not using hot wire so I don't no how that will work but its cheep. Down side the cure time is about 8hrs so if you have the time... If you find it a bit thick to spread out you can thin it with a bit of water and mix well. I'm a firm believer in testing before hand so take some scrap and try it.

looking grate as always J
Last edited by Pinky_d_brain; Jul 20, 2012 at 12:36 PM.
Jul 20, 2012, 12:42 PM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Thanks Woody,
Yes, those props are sweet. I'm planning on getting a video of the A-1 during a taxi test. Prop looks pretty cool on it.

Not sure how white glue would work for laminating blue foam blocks. It dries through evaporation and no much air gets in those blocks with about 50 lbs stacked on them. And if very thick I think the hot wire would struggle and stick on it. And 8 hrs cure time? .... I only put up with that with epoxy resin.
I have a dentist appt today and going to Fedex to ship out Fuse # 2. Been working on the rear door buildup. I'll post some pics tomorrow of progress.

Jul 20, 2012, 01:29 PM
Registered User
White gorilla glue works well for laminating blocks of pink foam.

Apply GG, spread around with an old credit card scraping off all you can. Moisten the mating side with damp rag and clamp together. You can hot wire through the GG easily if it's applied thinly. Only takes a hour or so to set up.

Moistening the other side is important to make the GG foam up and become fluffy enough to hot wire and sand.

I usually hot wire off the factory "skin" first. That's usually too dense to sand without raising a line at the joint. Removing that skin releases some of the tension in the foam and flattens it for a better joint.
Jul 20, 2012, 02:38 PM
Dr John
pmpjohn's Avatar
Man, I must have been napping, six pages before I found this thread. To late to say "off we go" cause we already went. I'll just have to blame it on the slow internet connection I get up here in the NC mountains. Another great build J.

Jul 20, 2012, 11:05 PM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Fuse # 2 has left the building! Fedexed off and the next time I see it I hope it is a complete airplane.
Hope to finish at least one set of rear doors tomorrow too.

White GG would work fine for laminating foam blocks. My problem is the moment I place the last section on the blank, I'm ready to hot wire. It's an instant gratification thing with me. Why wait when you can do it right now. That's why I used the 3M 77 contact adhesive. It did the job but just barely.

Thanks John,
You were napping, that's why you missed it. I know because the guys at SEFF have proof!

Jul 21, 2012, 12:21 AM
corsair nut's Avatar
those molded parts turned out great!!!!!! awesome work as normal!
Jul 21, 2012, 01:11 PM
Living a Dream
Hans-Joachim's Avatar
BG J, this plane is cool...!! I love to see the progress and pictures from your shop!!

Jul 21, 2012, 02:27 PM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Thanks Nut

Thank you Hans. I hope I have this ready for our trip to Vegas.

I've been working on the rear doors trying to get the proper fit so they will close tightly. Not an easy proposition. I tried glassed 1/4" balsa first, doesn't look that great, pretty rough. Tough to get clean holes in it even though I masked both sides before drilling. Once they were tacked glued in I wasn't happy with the fit.
So I changed to styrene on the other doors. Much easier to get clean holes but the fit came out even worse. Even though I made sure the internal structures were exactly the same, the doors came out just a little off. Maybe I am inducing a little warp when gluing. I'm going to try one more thing before I take a break from them and move on the the wings. I have an idea that may work, we'll see.

Jul 21, 2012, 02:32 PM
Aut Viam Inveniam Aut Faciam
verticalspark's Avatar
awesome! this project is moving along nicely
Jul 21, 2012, 03:36 PM
Registered User
Waltjg's Avatar
Hope your new idea works John,,, what your trying to do there I know is really difficult! Good luck ! W

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Video AC-130U, (K. Sparks-based) wewprez Electric Plane Talk 3 May 21, 2012 11:10 AM
Questions and thoughts about Palmer Plans C-130 Lucas in Alaska Scale Kit/Scratch Built 35 Oct 30, 2008 06:00 PM
T-38 Based on CMYK Plans Ralph A. D'Amelio Electric Ducted Fan Jet Talk 30 Nov 24, 2004 12:27 PM
Enlarging Plans Based on Engine Size (A7 Corsair II propped) sethorus The Builders Workshop 8 Oct 22, 2003 11:53 PM
Palmer Plans KAMarks Scale Kit/Scratch Built 4 Nov 08, 2001 09:42 AM