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Jul 14, 2012, 10:59 PM
Brian
Quote:
Originally Posted by J Morgan View Post

I gave the plug 3 coats of wax and then 3 light coats of PVA.
PVA = PolyVinyl Alchohol ?

and where do you get it?

Thanks

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Jul 15, 2012, 02:28 AM
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raipe's Avatar
Subbed in for another J Morgan master piece.
Jul 15, 2012, 05:59 AM
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Tony,
I gravitate to the 119 before the 130, I guess because the 119 is about the same age as I am!
Always thought it had a cool look with that boxy fuse and twin booms.

cobrajockey,
I get it here. Partall wax # 2, Partall #10 mold release.
If you but a compatible wax and PVA, you can brush it on w/o it beading up on the wax. But I prefer to spray it for light coats.

http://www.cstsales.com/mold_release.html

Thanks raipe

So how do we get bulkhead patterns? First I decide and mark where I want the bulkheads. Then get the old hand saw out and start hacking. The pic shows where a partial bulkhead goes under the wing. I cut it up to where the wing saddle is, slip a file folder in the slot and trace the outline. Theoretically, that gives you a perfect pattern for the bulkhead. Of course for the full size bulkheads I cut it all the way through. Simple to trace onto lite ply and produce all you want. In the end if you want to save the plug you can glue foam the thickness of the saw blade on the ends of the pieces and glue it all back together to use making another fuse.

J
Jul 15, 2012, 06:11 AM
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Nice!
Jul 15, 2012, 07:18 AM
Texas Buzzard
Texas Buzzard's Avatar
J Morgan, A quick question please. I am curious why you used styrene for the cockpit windows in your plug? Is it because of the "flatness" of the sheet styrene? Thanks
Jul 15, 2012, 09:07 AM
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Yep Texas,
Since those are all flat windows, instead of fighting sanding the soft foam flat and possibly oversanding I figured it was easier to use styrene. I could get aggressive with no worries that way.

J
Jul 15, 2012, 09:21 AM
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stacker's Avatar
Looking at that saw picture makes me wonder if you weren't a surgeon in the Civil War in a past life ;-)

Looks great!

--Stacker
Jul 15, 2012, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stacker View Post
Looking at that saw picture makes me wonder if you weren't a surgeon in the Civil War in a past life ;-)

Looks great!

--Stacker
Ha! Oh man, that makes me cringe just thinking about it!

J
Jul 15, 2012, 09:38 AM
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Surgeon John!
Jul 15, 2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waltjg View Post
Surgeon John!
yeah, right

Once the bulkheads are glued in, it turns a flimsy FG fuse into a very strong one.

J
Jul 15, 2012, 10:06 AM
Jack of all master of none
splinterz25's Avatar
Great work J what are you gluing the bulkheads in with?

Bruce
Jul 15, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Had a problem with the PVA for some reason Bruce. I put the lay up in my storage at 100 degrees to help it cure harder. When I pulled the skins the PVA seemed like it was baked on. I put them in the bathtub( they fill it up!) and scrubbed for all I was worth. Didn't seem to make a difference. So I used 80 grit sandpaper and sanded all the bulkhead areas. Then I used med CA to glue them all in. Epoxy doesn't want stick to cured epoxy but CA loves it. I'll probably back it up with a smear of Gorilla glue just for insurance.

J
Jul 15, 2012, 11:16 AM
Registered User
aeromechanic1's Avatar
[QUOTE=J Morgan;22157685]It ought to be a great time Nut.

Rick, You should make it, more the merrier.

Once the poly/baby powder was dry it was time to wet sand it. Started with 220 grit and finished with 400 grit, both times wet sanding.
Then I drew with a pencil a line down the middle of both top & bottom and used a thin Dremel cut off blade to cut through the glass into the foam plug. I used handmade plastic blade type tools to slip in and break the bond. Once off it was time to wash the PVA out of the inside walls. It takes up the whole tub!
Took it back out to the shop and used strips of 3 oz cloth on the inside of the cut seams to glue back together. We have out skin! Next up...... bulkheads.


Awesome!!!
Wow.....
Thanks for sharing your knoledge here, it's a learning process for all!
Very impressive, and simply genius!

Doug
Jul 15, 2012, 01:04 PM
Brian

Templates


J

When you cut out the templates in post #1, for checking shape of the fuse, do you cut them a little oversized (say 1/16" or 1/8") to allow for the thickness of the fiberglass/resin layer, therefore making the skin closer to the actual plan size?

Does that make sense?
Jul 15, 2012, 02:38 PM
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Nope. Palmer drew this out with a 1/8" balsa skin. I just went with the regular sized formers for templates. Therefore my fuse is a little over 1/16" undersize all around. We're not going to TopGun or Scale Masters so no worry.

Thanks Doug


J


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