11*6 with 6mm shoulders. I prefer 8 millimeter shoulders for Highpower application

I don't know if the Passer comes with a prop, SH. I know the Specter does not. Also, I have used a 28mm, 30mm, and 33mm spinner. One can't even tell the difference from more than a meter.

Jim to the rescue!

BTW. I did a direct comparison between the bigger and smaller batteries this morning and the Specter just doesn't really seem to care that much about extra weight. After my paint and tail fairing I'm up to about 820 grams with the 1600mah battery and it flies really well.

well Pete if I can't fly I need to do something. glad to know I can help have a great day guys flie 1 for me

Yes - thanks for that Jim. 11x6 comes with the Passer-X as I understand you're saying, right? That'll help me in final decision (running calcs) of which motor to go for.

Yes, passer x comes with prop and spinner. 3mm shaft.

Kewl Beanz! Thanx Jim. Will be pullin' the trigger, soon.

Dang! I'm sorely tempted to get a Passer myself. I could set it up as light as possible then either glass the wing of the Specter to make it more of a sport flier or just hang it on the wall as a backup.

I flew my Specter again today in light conditions and enjoyed it very much. This is a nice toss around plane to keep in your car and enjoy.

I did cause my first damage to the plane, inserting the wing rod it hung up, I pushed a little too hard and popped in support out inside the wing. I'm going to have to cut the covering open to get in there and glue back in the end cap of the wing rod tube. I flew with it missing and everything is structurally fine.

My suggesting after this is to paint a small color marking on the center of the wing rod to keep from accidentally pushing it in too far.

Originally Posted by SoarWest

... I'm going to have to cut the covering open to get in there ...

Suggest, instead, just wraping some electrical tape on the spar as an insertion-limiter, building it up to sufficient thickness to work as a 'stop'. Providing that space there allows, without interfering with the opposite wing's installation &c.
Work?

...My suggesting after this is to paint a small color marking on the center of the wing rod to keep from accidentally pushing it in too far.

I do exactly that....using the brush-cap in a bottle of White Out / Liquid Paper I keep on my work desk. Lesson learned the hard way - just like you!

I did have to do a little light sanding of the wing joiner for easy insertion. Then, when I had the covering off for my leading edge repair and glassing, I soaked everything I could reach with thin CA.

I was out for a flight after the football game and caught one really good thermal despite the late hour but that was about it for lift. Most of the rest of my flying was low passes with a wing over or a tail slide at each end. It was the first time I could try the lighter batteries in dead air and they really make very little difference. Frankly I'm surprised that the Specter is barely affected by a couple ounces of weight.

Hi, guys.

No flying today so I finally got around to installing my new 11X6" prop and ESC. The prop is heavier than the old one and the ESC is lighter so it's a push on weight and balance. I'm impressed with the numbers.

23 amps
251 watts
8,550 RPM
1.37kg calculated thrust.

I can't wait to get her in the air. I don't really need a faster climb but it should be bags of fun!

I've found that if I launch straight ahead, pick up a few seconds of speed and then pull up, I can go vertical for about 100', then I need to nose it over just a bit and can keep climbing just a few degrees under vertical. I've also done things like adding rolls on the way up. I need to redo my build to get more aileron throw though because my rolls are really slow and even my air brakes when landing aren't as effective as I would like. I've increased the throw in the radio but need to change my arms out to get more now.

One other item, I've changed from 1600mAh batteries to 1300 and with the lighter nose get more response from thermals. I like the handling better with a lighter nose but you have to watch the plane more as it doesn't self center as easily and can get a little wild if you let it fly itself for too long. The wing is too straight for hands off flying and with a neutral CG the same goes for up and down motion.

With 1600 I was getting about 35 min of flying on 3 minutes of engine, with the 1300's I get about 25 minutes of flying on 2 minutes of engine run

That's pretty much how I launch but, with the stronger motor, it just keeps accelerating even with the 9.5X8" prop as long as I let it build even a little bit of speed.

I have just about all the throw I can get on the ailerons but I only use full rates for aerobatics. I used the longest horns that come with the HXT900 servos and the pushrods on the second hole of the control horns. Then I dial back the ailerons to 60% but I use "negative expo" so they really twitch with a very small input. That gives me great sensitivity around center and a decent rate of roll and I can flip the switch if I want to show off. Do you have yours set for differential throw? I didn't notice much adverse yaw without it but the rolls are much more axial with the aileron differential. I just did it with the servo horns because my radio won't let me program differential and spoilerons.

I like it with the CG back a bit unless there's a pretty hefty wind. My 1600mah batteries are only 4 grams more than my 1300s so there's no difference. I only have a couple flights with the much lighter 950mah batteries but, with identical CG, I was a bit surprised there isn't more difference.

BTW. I might just be imagining things but it seems like I have a little better roll stability with an aft CG. My guess is that providing more lift with the V-tail gives it a bit more apparent dihedral. It's a subtle difference if it's even there at all.