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Thread OP
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Mini-HowTo
Flashing Turnigy Plush(SiLabs) success, now with tutorial!
here is the new and improved tutorial written by me: http://oddcopter.com/2012/07/18/flas...heli-firmware/
it goes through the entire process of flashing popular silabs based ESCs (not just plush) using two methods. --------------------------------------------original post------------------------------------------- I didnt see any threads on this besides very few mentions in the ESC flashing thread, so i decided id post some info here. I found this thread on helifreak that talks about the BLHeli ESC firmware for SiLab based ESCs. it only shows a Turnigy plush 6A as compatible but the plush series has the same hardware except for the FETs so all plush should work. and as of the latest firmware version, it now has a Multirotor setting, yay! it also requires you to buy a 25$ programmer. but since im cheap, i found this max232 IC based programmer to tryout. i bought my plush 25A late 2011 an they are SiLbas based, so im gonna try this. what do ya guys think of this?! EDIT: here is some more programmer info(the expensive one): http://www.hacksmods.com/2012/05/sil...heli-flashing/ and some openpilot discussion: http://forums.openpilot.org/topic/10...abs-based-esc/ and a parallel port programmer(yikes!): http://silabs.org.ua/sp_en.htm |
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Last edited by sirbow2; Aug 05, 2012 at 07:11 PM.
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Thread OP
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this is what im going to try:
VDD/V33 from the scheme can be either from the internal vreg, or an external PSU. that is a Turnigy plush 6A, but my plush 25A looks the exact same except the pads are in the center of the board because the PCB is bigger, so any plush should be good. Also, any ESC with a SIL should work as long as you find where VDD/GND/C2CK/C2D are. |
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fingers crossed!
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Thread OP
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yeah, so this didnt work out very well. these "DIY" programmers dont work and those pads on the ESC are a @#$@#% to solder onto because they are so small and squeezed between the silabs and a vreg?
anybody know of a way to connect with the pads without soldering? like a clamp type thing? id recommend to just spend the 25$ and get the usb programmer |
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Thread OP
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What advantages would their be for flashing a SILabs based esc, isn't the refresh rate already 490Hz? |
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Thread OP
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i dunno about the servo connector, but i didnt because the Silabs chip is 3.3v(5v tolerant pins) and the servo lead is 5v |
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Thread OP
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Quote:
the diy programmer was the issue; i tired the max232 based one and the parallel port one. i got the wires soldered on much easier with magnet wire. i think they didnt work because they weren't supported or something maybe. i kept on getting no connection errors. hopefully the arduino one works better. |
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Last edited by sirbow2; Jul 09, 2012 at 06:56 PM.
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Thread OP
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yes, it has a MULTI option that is new in v 5.0 you can see the hex files here: https://github.com/bitdump/BLHeli/tr...bs/Hex%20files but that AVR program only supports the MAIN version right now, but it shouldnt be too long until MULTI is supported with the AVR programmer.
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Thread OP
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sorry bout my previous post saying MULTI wasnt supported by AVR yet, what i meant was that the GUI for BLHeli doesnt support MULTI yet, you can still program ESCs with the AVR, but you'd have to use TX sticks to calibrate.
i got my first ESC programmed!.... but its not working.... its not bricked because i can still reflash it... weird. hopefully the guys at helifreaks can help |
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I solve this problem using this JTAG 'connectorless' connector, all it requires is three little holes and a ten-pin IDC pad pattern on the board. It is a very slick and inexpensive solution for programming Atmel based boards. And are really neato as they are inexpensive too and easy to implement. See: http://www.tag-connect.com/tag-conne...DC-TG2050IDCNL tron pedigree hackin'gineer |
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Thread OP
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i have updated the first post with the tutorial. heres the link: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...78&postcount=2
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Hello all. I have Turnigy Plush ESC's and clone of Silabs USB debugger (with 4 pin connector). Can i flash my ESC's someway?
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Thread OP
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yes you can. the pins that you need from the programmer cable are:
7.................C2CK 2 or 3 or 9..GND 4.................C2D follow the toolstick part of the guide here, except you will be using your adapter. |
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Thank's alot. Sorry i forget to say that i have Plush 30A, will this instruction suit to it?
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Thread OP
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you can use the plush 6A hex for now, but the startup might be rough until the proper hex files for different amperages are released. after the prop gets spinning, its is good. i found this was because of bad a ESC.
i have also attached a 25A hex that works on 18A and 25A for sure 30A plush most likely too! |
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Last edited by sirbow2; Jul 20, 2012 at 09:29 PM.
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I did one HW funfly 10a tonight using the Turnigy 6A multirotor hex. so far it seems OK, The motor (suppo 2214) starts and runs fine but I still don't have a very linear throttle. Once you hit about 3/4 stick using a mutli advance stock setting of 1.0 its like hitting Turbo... the motor is smooth up to 3/4 throttle then JUMPS to full and you have no throttle control past 3/4 stick. If i back off the multi advance to .75 the throttle is more linear BUT once you hit 3/4 stick thats it...motor never reaches full power
I think I'll flash 3 more and try them on a quad...I do think the firmware still needs some more work by someone smarter than me John more info here, /i'm grabing the new files and trying them out. http://forums.openpilot.org/topic/10...ilabs__st__200 |
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Last edited by shultz; Jul 27, 2012 at 10:35 PM.
Reason: link
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Thread OP
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That's because the throttle range is set to 1150(activate
esc), 1200(start motor), and 1800(max throttle). In mwc I set min_command to 1140, min_throttle to 1195, and max_throttle to 1850. works fine. The issue at 3/4 you describe is probably because your throttle range is 1000 to 2000? |
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Just want to confirm that was able to flash 4 x Plush 25A successfully. Tested with Arcucopter 2.7 & APM2.0.
Start is a bit tricky. Once 1 motor did not start, otherwise motors need to be tricked to start. Once going it works fine. In my opinion battery consumption is higher that with stock Escs. Rev 6 flashed. |
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Is the firmwares found here the latest and optimized for multicopter use if I choose firmware with MULTI in its name?
https://github.com/bitdump/BLHeli/tr...bs/Hex%20files |
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I've got 3 Plush 25 amp ESC's with Atmel processors and 1 Plush 25 amp ESC with Silab processor (lucky me ).
Now that the Silabs can also be flashed with Multicopter firmware I might give it a go. However I don't really feel like buying a 25 dollar toolstick to flash a 12 dollar ESC. Do you think it will ever be possible to flash it using the USBASP controller. Almost everybody with a KK board already has this programmer. Or is this strictly for Atmel? |
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http://www.helifreak.com/showthread....19#post4147119 |
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Thread OP
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i have updated the tutorial at oddcopter for rev6.0 of blheli (the link in the first post), but ill put it in this post too: http://oddcopter.com/2012/07/18/flas...heli-firmware/
this is the new list of supported ESCs: Turnigy Plush 6/10/12/18/25/30A Turnigy AE 25A (All N-Fet design aka it runs cooler) DP 3A XP 3/7/12/18/25A SuperMicro 3/5A |
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Just flashed my Plush 18A's and can't fly now The motors are very rough to start and then one or more will drop out when I try to take off. Going back through all the information again but I'm not sure what the problem will be. All I have done is flashed them with the version 6 multi software. I see there is the BLSetup program but I have not idea what options I need to choose. I am using the DT750's. Any help would be great.
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http://forums.openpilot.org/topic/10...20#entry109662 http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.ph...postcount=1731 Attached is a test code that should run (couldn't upload hex, so I renamed it to txt):TURNIGY_PLUSH_18A_MULTI_R... -S |
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