Ares Gamma 370 RTF and RFR (Ready-For-Receiver) - Page 24 - RC Groups
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Nov 30, 2012, 11:37 AM
Registered User
Chino, I have a flying buddy that has one of the 800mm FMS T-28 Trojans and he is having a heck of a time flying the thing. He has tried it three times and has crashed 3 times. He is a pretty competent flier too. Could it be the design of the plane that makes it so hard to fly?
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Nov 30, 2012, 12:18 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
ChinoDiablo's Avatar
Chuck, I think it's pilot error. Me.
The T-28 airframe is a proven winner. Big, small. inbetween.
Mine bit the dust due to mainly a faulty Orange Rx that would brown out at the worst times resulting in crashes, repairs, crashes etc.
When the firewall/front landing gear mechanism finally crapped out, I decided to retire her and move on. THe bad Orange Rx went into the trash as well.
When I did have it working right, I remember that I changed the ESC to 30amps to get a 3s 850mah battery in there to get more speed but that resulted in a constant climb. I think my CG was a bit too far back.
I don't know if I would get another one as I think the front landing gear will always be a constant problem with bending, bad alignment and cracking of the firewall. Even seemingly gentle straight on landings bent the gear. Pissed me off. Same damn thing with my Cessna 182 which is also retired.
All of my current planes are either belly landers or tail draggers.
Gotta improve my landings.
Nov 30, 2012, 01:52 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
ChinoDiablo's Avatar
Originally Posted by ty_horn
I still want to stick a park 480 or something in this plane. :-)
It might be BIG and a bit too strong resulting in a constant climb.
Nov 30, 2012, 01:56 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
ChinoDiablo's Avatar
Originally Posted by Cubieman
I have been using the GWS orange 8x6 props. Today I picked up some of the stock Ares 8x6 props. I noticed that the Ares props seem a bit stiffer. I was thinking possibly the GWS prop were flimsy enough that when the brushed motor spins up it "flattens" them out a bit? I'll see tomorrow if this is the case. I just don't get it....
Try a prop adapter collet, 3.17mm and a stronger prop like a Master Airscrew.
I use a 8X6. love it.
If you do this, you'll have to shorten the prop shaft, though and be married to the prop adapter. If you don't like it you can always order a new motor shaft. Replacement shafts are: but this is not a threaded shaft.
Slow flyer props such as GWS flatten out and produce a howling sound a high revs.
Last edited by ChinoDiablo; Nov 30, 2012 at 02:10 PM.
Nov 30, 2012, 02:06 PM
Registered User
Yeah, I hear ya. My PZ T-28 is a great flier. One of our older pilots also has the Navy version of the FMS 800mm T-28 and it ALWAYS veers right when hand launched and ends up crashing. Strange. Oh well. At this point, I am waiting for the Gamma 370 Pro to get in the stores. I plan on getting that one and passing the brushed Gamma 370 down to my brother who is finally getting competent with the HZ Champ.
Nov 30, 2012, 07:04 PM
Registered User

Eflite props

Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72
I like the Eflite props best for BL. Very very sturdy compared to stock and with brushless don't have to worry about bending shafts.

Going to try a 10x7 tomorrow morning!
Hey, I need a better prop than stock. Where is the best place to buy the eflite props?

Nov 30, 2012, 09:27 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
ChinoDiablo's Avatar
Originally Posted by flgamma
Hey, I need a better prop than stock. Where is the best place to buy the eflite props?

Dec 01, 2012, 12:01 AM
Registered User
HobbyTown sells the EFlite props
Dec 01, 2012, 09:07 PM
Registered User
It was the prop...I think. I changed things as much as I could so I could potentially find the issue causing such poor performance with the brushless. Instead of the GWS prop I put the stock Ares 8x6. Then I put the stock Tx/Rx back into action. The difference was night and day.

But then...while way up there I hear a "buzzzzzz". I lost throttle, luckily I was able to glide her down as I still had control of all surfaces. The prop was gone, the cowl was ripped off and the wires of the brushless motor got twisted so violently that the were separated from the motor. It even wound the wires of the ESC to point it looked braided.

The motor had come off it's mount, not the stick mount on the fuselage but where there are those two tiny allen wrench set screws. One was missing and the other backed out a bit. I took it to HobbyTown and got it replaced FREE, that was nice. I used blue loctite on the set screws when I got home. I had another Ares 370 brushless motor that I put loctite on but when I took that motor apart I noticed dimples in the metal where the set screws could dig in and stick. But my other motor didn't have these dimples, so I made some. Also I noticed that the new motor I got as a replacement only had two screws instead of the four screws holding it in to the black plastic mount. I've noticed that the QC on these Ares parts can be off sometimes.

Now I have another issue, I watched this video..
Ares Gamma 370 RTF / RFR Flown with Optional Aileron Wing and Brushless Power System (5 min 30 sec)

They are able to pull barrel rolls with ease, I can't even do them. And mine is set up just like they have theirs, 3S 11.1V battery and all. When I want to fly inverted it rolls so slow that I just do a half loop then fly inverted from there. I am thinking maybe my ailerons don't travel as far as they should?

Take a look at these pictures and see if I've done something wrong. Full aileron travel shown.

Dec 01, 2012, 11:54 PM
Registered User
Blusaber's Avatar
Hi cubieman

From the manual for the pro

3/8–1/2” (~10–13mm) up/down
NOTE: In some cases the aileron will travel approximately 1/8–3/16” (3‐–5mm) more down than up (this is OK)
9/16–11/16” (~15–18mm) up/down
9/16–3/4” (~17–20mm) left/right

It doesn't look like you are getting enough throw from the pics

Last edited by Blusaber; Dec 02, 2012 at 12:05 AM.
Dec 02, 2012, 12:26 AM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
ChinoDiablo's Avatar
Well, CubieMan, I don't know what to say. I know that sounds strange for how much I've gone on and on about the Gamma.
You have several things going on at the same time:
Tx/Rx/Throttle issues. You said that you went back to the stock Tx/Rx. What were you using before? Specktrum? Futaba? You went back to the Ares 6 Channel radio and receiver? That radio is fine on full throws like any other radio but is not programmable in any manner. Perhaps the previous radio was programmed incorrectly. Also, having the leads that plug into the receiver in the wrong direction will lead to low power. I've done that with servos but never with an ESC. You should check that. These wires are cryptical colored and vary with manufacturer. Some use white wires, some use yellow wires. Often it can be difficult to figure out how these wire match up to the receiver.
Foam Hinges need pre-maiden help loosening up. They are always way too stiff fresh out of the box. Try taking off the control rods and working the control surfaces back and forth 25+ times to get them nice and loose. I do this with all of my new planes (I have 11 now). This will greatly enhance the servo's abiltiy to move the control surface: elevator, rudder, aileron.
The photo of the aileron wing, I assume has the aileron in the neutral position, the offset of the aileron at the root of the wing is due to bending from tight rubberbands. Right? Mine does that. Or, are you using your transmitter to demonstrate deflection? Hard to tell. I like to trim my ailerons at neutral based on its position at the wing tips not at the root due to the compressing of the wing there. I don't seem to have any problems with that. .
Lastly, never assume anything about these models.
Murphy's Law states that Ready-to-Fly Planes Aren't. Tiny little screws, bolts and set screws loosen up or were never even tight and become major problems as you have witnessed. Control horns, tight hinges, etc etc. All of it straight from the factory. As you go on in this hobby you start to do a lot of pre-maiden things like strengthening, taping, loosening and so on with your new plane before you even get in the air. Your motor was a victim of Murphy"s Law but could have been avoided if you had a thorough pre-maiden flight check. So now you know.
Not trying to sound condescending. But experience has toughened me up a bit. Pre-Flight checks are a good thing. Night-before checks on things like motor mounts, battery solder connector leads, landing gear, cracks in wings/foam/who knows what... All very important.
Dec 02, 2012, 07:55 AM
Newbe learning everyday!
dbdukeboy's Avatar
Hey Chino, thanks for all the advice and help on here. You mentioned pre flight checks and checking solder connections. How do you do that and how do you know if you have a bad solder joint. I'm starting to think that may have been my power loss problem a while back.
Dec 02, 2012, 01:32 PM
semper mitis
gentle ben's Avatar

I received my aileron upgrade wing yesterday and as I assembled it (putting in the servo) I noticed a severe lack of travel on the ailerons. Examining the connectors I noticed that when they assembled the torque tubes into the ailerons more than a little glue had dribbled out into the channel. Slicing away the offending hot glue provided full range of motion in my ailerons. I would check those little plastic plates because the glue is almost transparent and went without notice until I was troubleshooting the problem.

gentle ben
Dec 02, 2012, 01:37 PM
semper mitis
gentle ben's Avatar

I couldn't help but notice that your wing is significantly different than mine in that mine has a plywood mounting platform that crosses the midline of the wing and yours does not. My wing is identical albeit already assembled to the Gamma Pro wing.

gentle ben
Dec 02, 2012, 03:52 PM
Registered User
First successful flight in 10+MPH constant wind with gusts over 15!

Got it higher than normal just because I've never flown when its been so windy. Going against the wind WOT would let me hardly move forward and gliding with the wind was faster than stock WOT.

Landing was smooth but I revoke the landing skid battery door holder part. Snapped in half on my previous crash and I tried to cheap out and just super glue it back. Not enough surface area for the glue to have much strength.

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