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Old Sep 05, 2012, 09:58 PM
NitroCharged is offline
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Team30 Micro EDF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
+1 Really any AS3X brick *should* be safe on 3S. All the AS3X bricks have the bigger 5.8Amp ESC whereas the non-AS3X ones have a 3A ESC

-Brian
yup, Mig board runs 6A mosfets. Beast board runs 8A mosfets.

Noob - you throw a bearing already too?
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 10:06 PM
tracknoob is offline
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Diverted by planks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroCharged View Post
Noob - you throw a bearing already too?
It is squealing like a mobster trying to cut a plea deal....
Old Sep 05, 2012, 11:46 PM
mikhail tupulov is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whichwaysup View Post
LOL - so, I'm watching the first few seconds of your video thinking, "WOW! THAT IS ONE FAST MIG!!! It's just zipping in and out of the frame so fast he can't even keep up with it. No wonder it went into a tree!"

Then I realized that it was a bug.

Sorry to hear about your maiden going out on a limb, but glad to hear your second flight went much better!
Easy hotshot, maybe go find a slow stick (or another stick ) to work out your thumbs on before taking the fast micro mig up again.
Old Sep 06, 2012, 04:24 PM
kalmon is offline
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Parkzone junkie
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As promised here is the review of the 3S BB 320mAh.

Power:
It feels kinda silly talking about the power of a 3S pack in a 2S plane. This thing really moves.

weight:
I think that this pack, tipping the scales at 29g, is on the other side of the power/weight curve. Constant back pressure must be held for level flight.

other thoughts:
Landings are much faster and not really nose up. You must land with a little power as with all that weight up front as the plane slows you'll run out of elevator. That said landings are insanely simple now, just line up gently roll in full elevator as you're reducing the throttle.

I don't think the stock gear will hold up to this pack without modification. You'll either have to find a way to move it back or really strengthen the nose gear.

One thing I noticed is how extremely well this thing tracks and penetrated the wind. I didn't even notice which way the wind was blowing while I was flying.

Elevator authority was definitely reduced. it just can't overcome the weight up front.

Big Loops are possible.

Energy management is back into the equation here. You will not be able to pull up and climb out of trouble. 30-40* climbs felt just about right. 60* probably doable but tough.

Conclusion:
This pack is not for everyone. The plane feels more Mig-like again on this pack. On the 3s180 it feels more like a 3D machine. I'm expecting 3-4min flights on this pack 5min with throttle management.

*I tried to get video but the guy at the field kept losing the plane in the viewfinder. I'll try again next time I go to the field.

-Brian
Old Sep 06, 2012, 10:05 PM
barmonkey is offline
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WHAT THE...
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Sorry to interrupt the 3S talk, but I received my replacement aileron servo today and need to begin surgery before I can maiden my little Miggy.

Can anyone tell me in advance how much of this plane I will need to take apart before I tear into it? I assume that I will need to remove the plastic canopy/top fuselage...just looking for some tips to prevent me from mangling it any more than I need to...

Thanks in advance!
Old Sep 07, 2012, 02:10 AM
Groovechampion is online now
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Micro enthusiast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barmonkey View Post
Sorry to interrupt the 3S talk, but I received my replacement aileron servo today and need to begin surgery before I can maiden my little Miggy.

Can anyone tell me in advance how much of this plane I will need to take apart before I tear into it? I assume that I will need to remove the plastic canopy/top fuselage...just looking for some tips to prevent me from mangling it any more than I need to...

Thanks in advance!
Barmonkey,
you will find that all the electrics, bar the aileron servos and fan, are all under that plastic canopy.

Realistically if you need to replace a servo for the rudder or elevator then all you will have to do is carefully remove that canopy. There is no need to split the fuse as the bottom half of the fuse is just foam, no electrics at all.

The EDF is mounted into the top of the fuse where the wings join via 4 screws.

I did a whole airframe re-build with new parts, it was actually easier than I imagined!

This post is some photos of the canopy removed.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...681915&page=94
Post number 1406

Regards,
Nath.

EDIT: Just realised that you need to replace a aileron servo, looks like you may need to slice the fuse in half, because the wires thread through a grooved pathway...
Old Sep 07, 2012, 09:02 AM
kalmon is offline
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Parkzone junkie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barmonkey View Post
Sorry to interrupt the 3S talk, but I received my replacement aileron servo today and need to begin surgery before I can maiden my little Miggy.

Can anyone tell me in advance how much of this plane I will need to take apart before I tear into it? I assume that I will need to remove the plastic canopy/top fuselage...just looking for some tips to prevent me from mangling it any more than I need to...

Thanks in advance!
+1 to what Groovechampion said. You will need to open the fuse and the top plastic cover.
When you split the fuse take care not to cut deeply when you slice the tape. There are small alignment nubs and matching indentations that you don't want to cut off.

-Brian
Old Sep 07, 2012, 01:27 PM
RCBABBEL is online now
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**I'm Battman**
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
As promised here is the review of the 3S BB 320mAh.

Power:
It feels kinda silly talking about the power of a 3S pack in a 2S plane. This thing really moves.

weight:
I think that this pack, tipping the scales at 29g, is on the other side of the power/weight curve. Constant back pressure must be held for level flight.

other thoughts:
Landings are much faster and not really nose up. You must land with a little power as with all that weight up front as the plane slows you'll run out of elevator. That said landings are insanely simple now, just line up gently roll in full elevator as you're reducing the throttle.

I don't think the stock gear will hold up to this pack without modification. You'll either have to find a way to move it back or really strengthen the nose gear.

One thing I noticed is how extremely well this thing tracks and penetrated the wind. I didn't even notice which way the wind was blowing while I was flying.

Elevator authority was definitely reduced. it just can't overcome the weight up front.

Big Loops are possible.

Energy management is back into the equation here. You will not be able to pull up and climb out of trouble. 30-40* climbs felt just about right. 60* probably doable but tough.

Conclusion:
This pack is not for everyone. The plane feels more Mig-like again on this pack. On the 3s180 it feels more like a 3D machine. I'm expecting 3-4min flights on this pack 5min with throttle management.

*I tried to get video but the guy at the field kept losing the plane in the viewfinder. I'll try again next time I go to the field.

-Brian
Many thanks Brian!

I know how much time and effort it takes to test batts.

Hyp (3S) 240 specs:
L x W x H
33x20.5x18.5

Very square fat batt.
What do ya think?

rc

Ordered my MiG last night.
About time!!
RCG Plus Member
Old Sep 07, 2012, 10:49 PM
barmonkey is offline
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WHAT THE...
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Thanks for the information about replacing the servo...

The Good News: I removed the plastic top by using a sharp Xacto blade and carefully cut along the edges. Then managed to replace the servo without cutting the fuse apart. This was done by enlarging the sevo wire hole with and Xacto blade and a piece of wire. Some fishing line was tied to the old servo's connector and then pulled out. The line was then tied to the new servo's connector and pulled back through...EASY!

The Bad News: It seems that the replacement servo actually "centers" whereas the original servos "center" in a more forward position. The really bad news is that the new servo does the same thing as the original. After being on for a while it ceases to function and the servo motor get very hot.

I am wondering if it may just have a bad brick...regardless this one is going back to Horizon...
Old Sep 08, 2012, 08:58 AM
impmotor is offline
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Quick question on the motor. I lost thrust this morning after flying a pack at WOT. I let the MIG rest for a few minutes and then tries a fresh battery. A few passes and then not enough thrust to keep flying. What goes wrong with these motors? Do the bearings start to sieze up? Is it repairable? My experience with heli motors is that usually once a motor loses power it is history.
Old Sep 08, 2012, 10:04 AM
HenryV is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impmotor View Post
Quick question on the motor. I lost thrust this morning after flying a pack at WOT. I let the MIG rest for a few minutes and then tries a fresh battery. A few passes and then not enough thrust to keep flying. What goes wrong with these motors? Do the bearings start to sieze up? Is it repairable? My experience with heli motors is that usually once a motor loses power it is history.
check your impeller as well !
My Mig sniffed some sand when hitting full throttle by accident when the plane already landed on a dusty and sandy area. The impeller was ruined. All the sharp edges were damaged and I was not able to keep the Mig airborne with full throttle.

Changed the impeller and flew like new again !


Another thing: Did someone here already tried a different motor ??
I'm not exactly an electrical engineer but less kv's was less amps on the same voltage right ??

I want to try 3S as well, but read about (over)current prolems resulting in the brick switching of power for a few seconds at WOT and bearing failures.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...r_10300kv.html

This motor has about 10% less kv then stock (10300kv vs stock 11750kv) and it perhaps can be fitted in the stock EDF housing of the Mig.

On 3S this motor should give just 10% less RPM's, but much lower current and still WAY faster then the stocker on 2S.

Or not ? Please advise experts here, thanks !!
Old Sep 08, 2012, 10:35 AM
HenryV is offline
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Nope, the Turnigy 1220 does not fit...

I actually had one from an old project, forget that.

But the motorcase is thicker then stock and 1,5mm shaft instead of 1.
Old Sep 08, 2012, 10:47 AM
RealGambler is offline
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Way to many airplanes!
Quote:
Originally Posted by impmotor View Post
Quick question on the motor. I lost thrust this morning after flying a pack at WOT. I let the MIG rest for a few minutes and then tries a fresh battery. A few passes and then not enough thrust to keep flying. What goes wrong with these motors? Do the bearings start to sieze up? Is it repairable? My experience with heli motors is that usually once a motor loses power it is history.
Well, are you sure it's not your batteries that are giving up? If not, you may want to check this AWESOME video made by Nitrocharged about how to change the bearing on that small motor.
How to replace micro inrunner motor bearings! (13 min 36 sec)
Old Sep 08, 2012, 05:19 PM
impmotor is offline
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The video is great. However, I fear that by the time I locate the correct bearing and pay for it and shipping, the cost will be the same as a new motor. I am only guessing that it is a bearing problem. The motor sounds all right but it is just not developing enough thrust. I must have a couple of hundred flights on this motor. It certainly does not owe me anything.
Old Sep 08, 2012, 06:12 PM
NitroCharged is offline
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Team30 Micro EDF
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impmotor - If it(fan) still 'sounds' the same, check up the tailpipe and see if your sticky tape holding the servo wires has come away and is blocking traffic. After so many flights, this might be a cause. If it were bearings, you'd hear the fan being noisier.


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