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Old Jun 24, 2012, 08:03 PM
GrantL is offline
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Gold-N-Rod on my Ailerons


I've built a GP .40 J3 Cub....

I noticed the other day at the field that when I started to put the cub away that my ailerons were way out of alignment. They weren't that way when I got to the field..

So I did some testing today.. I took the wing out into the sun and let it sit for a few mins. After a short time, the ailerons went out of alignment.. So I'm thinking that it's the "Gold-N-Rod" push rods that are expanding in the heat. Is this something that has to be expected? So my next test was to set both ailerons like in the pictures.. 1/8 down while in the cool of the house.. Took the wing back out in the sun and within a few mins, they are back aligned with the trailing edge.. After they aligned themselves, I let them sit for quite a long time and they stayed aligned..

Again.. Is this normal with Gold-N-Rod?

Thanks
Grant
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Old Jun 24, 2012, 08:27 PM
Kimber is offline
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Brad said it sounds like the housing is slipping???
Old Jun 24, 2012, 08:32 PM
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Brad said it sounds like the housing is slipping???
Hi.. No, the housing is secure.. The rods go from the servo in the center of the wing to the left and right ailerons. then to a 90deg bell crank to the aileron.. Nothing has moved.. strange!!
Old Jun 24, 2012, 09:10 PM
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Gold-N -Rod does expandand contract quite a bit and it's normal. I have a couple large old timers with it for rudder and elevator and they move a 1/2" or better from cooler to warmer air temperatures. From summer to winter and back I have to readjust the clevises on the plane to recentre the controls.
Old Jun 24, 2012, 09:20 PM
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And it has been doing it for over 25 years.....
Old Jun 24, 2012, 09:42 PM
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Thanks All.. I feel a little better but I won't do that again..Have to keep a close watch before each flight.. Thanks again.
Old Jun 24, 2012, 09:53 PM
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One thing to watch for. Make darn sure the outer tube is clean and roughed up before you glue it. And use plenty of glue. 5 minute epoxy on an uncleaned/unroughed up tube can cost you an airplane. Been there, done that...
Old Jun 25, 2012, 02:58 AM
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I got a question about using Gold-N-Rods. How do you insert the threaded metal rod without stripping the threading? How do you adjust length without stripping?

I've been using the Dubro micro pushrods since that is right for the size models I've built and that hardware is a cinch. I built a bigger model and used Gold-N-Rods for the first time and it was literally painful on the fingers, so used needlenose pliers and that was when I started stripping the threads.

Thanks
Old Jun 25, 2012, 09:59 AM
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Get some 2-56 nuts and thread them on the rod. Then take two wrenches (or pliers) and turn them against each other. This is called "jamming" or making them "jam" nuts. Anyway, get a nut driver (1/4" if I remember right) to turn the nuts and rod. Use pliers with some masking tape on the jaws to hold the yellow pushrod. When the threaded rod is where you want it, take the nuts off. I tend to use longer than necessary threaded rod and just cut it to length after installation.
Last edited by Mel Duval; Jun 25, 2012 at 10:49 AM.
Old Jun 25, 2012, 10:27 AM
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Using Mel's pliers method to hold the "pushrod" (or Bowden I suppose would be more proper),then take a short piece of left over threaded 2-56 rod and chuck it up in a cordless drill, put on low speed and run'er in. All done in about 2.34 seconds
Old Jun 25, 2012, 10:38 AM
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"Is this something that has to be expected?"

Like everyone has said, yes; but, once upon a time there were "golden rods" or "golden rod" look alikes that had a carbon fiber inner section(rod?) that did not expand and contract with the heat, I believe that I replaced all of mine, and things were good.

Les
Old Jun 25, 2012, 10:51 AM
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One other thought. Figure out what the max cold and the max hot positions are. Then trim the clevis for halfway between the two.
Old Jun 25, 2012, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Mel Duval View Post
One other thought. Figure out what the max cold and the max hot positions are. Then trim the clevis for halfway between the two.
I've done that.. Thanks..

Am I correct in assuming that taking off with both ailerons being down slightly while the wing comes up to temp, thus the ailerons are now aligned with the trailing edge, is not a totally bad thing???? On the other hand.. during my testing.. It only took about 5 mins for the ailerons to align themselves..
Old Jun 25, 2012, 12:21 PM
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I've done that.. Thanks..

Am I correct in assuming that taking off with both ailerons being down slightly while the wing comes up to temp, thus the ailerons are now aligned with the trailing edge, is not a totally bad thing???? On the other hand.. during my testing.. It only took about 5 mins for the ailerons to align themselves..
I think I would just wait the 5 minutes rather than have the ailerons trimmed down. A fudge up (just enough to tell there is some) usually better if they are "barn door" ailerons like yours, IMHO. I have had some aircraft that were pretty sensitive to having both ailerons down. They were warboirds and fairly heavily loaded, though. A World Models EP P-51 comes to mind. I had to reduce the elevator throw and raise the ailerons a little bit to get it to fly without tip stalling. That was after the total re-build......
Old Jun 25, 2012, 04:06 PM
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I think I would just wait the 5 minutes rather than have the ailerons trimmed down. A fudge up (just enough to tell there is some) usually better if they are "barn door" ailerons like yours, IMHO. I have had some aircraft that were pretty sensitive to having both ailerons down. They were warboirds and fairly heavily loaded, though. A World Models EP P-51 comes to mind. I had to reduce the elevator throw and raise the ailerons a little bit to get it to fly without tip stalling. That was after the total re-build......
Yup.. believe you're right.. I'm figuring my plan to pull the Gold-n-rod out....


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