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Old Apr 30, 2013, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdLokken View Post
rcfly46

Got mine from Tower Hobbies last week, it appears to be V2. Did not need to shim. At full throttle need to hold in some down elevator.
what angle of climb u getting without stalling it? 30, 45 degrees?
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Old Apr 30, 2013, 11:03 AM
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I would say at least 60 degrees at full throttle. It is all stock, no modifications. My 1500 ma battery is rated at 30 c. I have a older 1300 ma not sure what the c rating is but did not provide the same power as the 1500 battery. I would go with at least a 30 c.
Old Apr 30, 2013, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by EdLokken View Post
rcfly46

Got mine from Tower Hobbies last week, it appears to be V2. Did not need to shim. At full throttle need to hold in some down elevator.
Thanks Ed & Rip, appreciate the info.

Joe
Old Apr 30, 2013, 07:59 PM
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I would agree with Ed. 60 degrees would be about right.
Old Apr 30, 2013, 10:43 PM
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Went flying today again... logged 12 flights on the plane already.
The trim (set for gliding) is 90% up... I guess i will have to change the incidence of the horizontal stab after all... CG is right at the "recommended" spot.

20 min flights easy. record so far is 35 mins.... with a 1350 mAh batt
Old May 01, 2013, 10:22 AM
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Calypso V2 Horizontal Stabilizer


Quote:
Originally Posted by ripacheco View Post
while I had to trim up for gliding I didnt' have to shim anything. how can u tell if u have a V2 fuse
I sent an email to Hobbico support middle of last month about this, here is the exchange.

I am looking at getting an ARF Flyzone Calypso (FLZA3006 ARF) from Tower Hobbies and see in the parts list that there is a V2 version of the Fuselage, Stabilizer and Vertical Fin/Rudder. I would like to buy the Version 2 model but none of the packages list if they are V1 or V2. Are the (FLZA3006 ARF) kits that Tower Hobbies have in stock Version 2 model or do I need to buy the parts separately?

Hobbico support
I asked about this last week. I was told that we will eventually make a running change to V2 parts in the Calypso kit. However, that has not occurred yet and the product manager for the plane didn't have a date yet. If you want V2 parts, you'll need to order them or wait for awhile for the V2 parts to be included.


I bought the parts separately and the easiest way to tell if you have a V2 is to look at the horizontal stabilizer. V2 has a shim molded into the bottom. I am waiting for a motor so haven't put it together yet.
Last edited by trex; May 02, 2013 at 06:23 PM.
Old May 01, 2013, 11:16 AM
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If someone that has a v2 stab wouldn't mind taking a measurement of exactly how much "shim" they are inducing in the new molds, it would be a welcome addition to this thread. Going by the control horns there, it looks to be about 1/8in.

Edit: thank you very much Trex

Isaac
(Hoping the boys in blue will be bringing me a Calypso today...)
Last edited by Victrix; May 02, 2013 at 06:21 PM.
Old May 01, 2013, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Victrix View Post
If someone that has a v2 stab wouldn't mind taking a measurement of exactly how much "shim" they are inducing in the new molds, it would be a welcome addition to this thread. Going by the control horns there, it looks to be about 1/8in.


Isaac
(Hoping the boys in blue will be bringing me a Calypso today...)
Another thing you could do as a "stop gap measure" is to turn the clevis so that the elevator is 1/8" up ... this allows me to set the trim near neutral for gliding.

HOWEVER... the plane will need elevator down during a powered climb up. We don't want to induce a loop there...

Such a nice airplane... amazes everybody how long you can stay aloft with ZERO wind
Old May 02, 2013, 05:32 PM
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Hi, I'm very late to the discussion, but I have the same issue with the tail. I had to send back the first one, as the screw would not advance. My current one will only advance to the end of the bolt, like you mentioned. The front of the vertical stabilizer is not so tight. I'd like to set it up so the screw could be tightened further, like by drilling a hole past the nut so the screw can continue. Have you tried anything like that?
Old May 02, 2013, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by peterlngh View Post
One can simply add a very, very, tiny amount of throttle and the prop will act as a very effective airbrake. One doesn't want to add any thrust so you just hit enough throttle to kick the blades out and disengage the prop brake. Depending on how your throttle matches up with the ESC this should be well under 1/8 of your stick movement. This causes the prop to windmill and really slow down the plane. Just remember to shut the throttle again before touching the ground or you may damage the prop!
My Calypso had it's maiden flight today and ^^THIS^^ tip was SPOT ON!. I took her up for several flights (3 1300mahs packs) of about 6-10 minutes each. Bear in mind that besides a Firebird Stratos that I started flying a couple of weeks ago, the Calypso is my second plane. Been trying to teach myself a new hobby.

Aside from my very first time up when my brain was saying up trim but my finger was doing the opposite (luckily I was high enough and caught it in time) everything went well. Launches into the wind were nice and smooth and just needed a bit of up trim. It catches the wind fairly easily but like someone else said, if you don't stay on top of things she will lose altitude in a hurry.

I pretty much just flew slow, lazy circles trying to get a feel for it and managed to get high enough and squeeze a couple of easy loops and a few near vertical climbs. She is definitely not underpowered. When turning it seems as though the ailerons aren't enough and I found myself using the rudder as well. Big difference going from the 3 channel Stratos to the 4 channel Calypso.

Landings were all super smooth but I found myself using a ton of space for the approach. I don't have the flaps installed yet. It was then that I remembered to use the prop as an "air brake" and the technique drastically slowed down the plane . So thanks for the tip peterlngh.

Overall I had a lot of fun and I managed not to lawn dart the plane on her first time up. Can't wait to do it again.
Old May 02, 2013, 10:00 PM
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Congratulations.
If you have a computer radio you can make your ailerons flaperons. That helps with landings.
I run my motor for 30seconds climbing to altitude and then trim for a gentle glide.
I can get 20-35 mins without being an expert thermal hunter. And I use a 1300 mAh battery!
Always make turns into the wind. Learn to turn with the rudeer and a little aileron minimizing altitude lost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsixx View Post
My Calypso had it's maiden flight today and ^^THIS^^ tip was SPOT ON!. I took her up for several flights (3 1300mahs packs) of about 6-10 minutes each. Bear in mind that besides a Firebird Stratos that I started flying a couple of weeks ago, the Calypso is my second plane. Been trying to teach myself a new hobby.

Aside from my very first time up when my brain was saying up trim but my finger was doing the opposite (luckily I was high enough and caught it in time) everything went well. Launches into the wind were nice and smooth and just needed a bit of up trim. It catches the wind fairly easily but like someone else said, if you don't stay on top of things she will lose altitude in a hurry.

I pretty much just flew slow, lazy circles trying to get a feel for it and managed to get high enough and squeeze a couple of easy loops and a few near vertical climbs. She is definitely not underpowered. When turning it seems as though the ailerons aren't enough and I found myself using the rudder as well. Big difference going from the 3 channel Stratos to the 4 channel Calypso.

Landings were all super smooth but I found myself using a ton of space for the approach. I don't have the flaps installed yet. It was then that I remembered to use the prop as an "air brake" and the technique drastically slowed down the plane . So thanks for the tip peterlngh.

Overall I had a lot of fun and I managed not to lawn dart the plane on her first time up. Can't wait to do it again.
Old May 02, 2013, 10:12 PM
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What exactly is a "flaperon" and how does it aid in landing?
Old May 02, 2013, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by kingsixx View Post
What exactly is a "flaperon" and how does it aid in landing?
in my radio i can setup the ailerons to go down simultaneously as flaps.
i flip a certain switch and slide the aileron control and i have flaps . however they also work as ailerons (although not at the full flap setting)

computer radios can do that trick.

As i come in for a landing i start using the flap to control the rate of descent without increasing my airspeed just before landing i deploy full flaps and use it as a brake. Thing to remember is taht at the extreme setting the ailerons will not work as ailerons anymore so any change in direction has to be done with the ruddder...

to me this is important because i'm saving the weigh of two extra servos for the flap function.

for all this to work you need to use a separate channel for each aileron servo (ch 1 and ch 5 in my radio) no Y-adapter can be used.

All that said... turning on the motor just a bit so that the prop windmills is a fantastic speed break!
Old May 03, 2013, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsixx View Post
What exactly is a "flaperon" and how does it aid in landing?
ok I would suggest you google flaperons...but the basics: first, to enable flaperons your radio should have a setting for it and you need to assign each aileron servo to a different channel, obviously u can't use a "Y" extension. But what are flaperons?
It is using both your ailerons as flaps at the same time by lowering them (to a degree determined by you) while still giving you control. Activate flaperons and the ailerons will drop down while still moving as they would normally move.
How does this help in landing? Well lowering flaps (or in this case flaperons) will increase the camber of the wing (creating more lift) while at the same time allowing you to come in for landing at a steeper angle without increasing your airspeed!
Mind you, when you lower flaps or flaperons will cause the aircraft to raise the nose immediately so, you have to be ready for it by applying down, but preferably using some down elevator mixing with the flaperons to counteract this tendency.

Hope this helps.
Old May 03, 2013, 10:44 PM
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I'm very glad I helped, kingsixx. If one wants an air brake without any pitch changes? The prop is your best friend. Now let's go to "flaperons".

The flaperon setting on a programmable radio will allow one to use a channel to move both ailerons in the same direction. I have found that "spoilerons", both ailerons moving up, is usually preferable to both ailerons going down. Spoilerons actually decrease the lift caused by the wing and, more importantly, actually make the wing less likely to drop a tip because they effectively add "washout". I have found, with the Calypso, that about 30 degrees up on both ailerons allows me to make a near vertical descent without losing aileron effectiveness or dropping a wing while using the rudder to make fairly sharp turns. It's a little counter intuitive but it's definitely worth giving it a try assuming that you keep some extra altitude and airspeed when trying it out.

Cheers!


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