Originally Posted by tvap74

Hi,

The HMC5883L has a text

L883
4321

on top, bottom row being (most likely) manufacturing time in form of <week><year>.

The QMC5883 has

DX
5883
XXXX

where X's are customer specific.

I have had four of these modules so far, all with QMC and it doesn't really look good. One is kind of working, on two QMC doesn't give reasonable values and one was destroyed as I desoldered it from a PCB. The QMC doesn't have self calibration functionality like the HMC has, so it would need some kind of calibration routine to be implemented to the firmware of the tracker. At the moment I don't have time (or motivation) to fight with this, have to see if I kind find correct modules. Three first were from DX, fourth was from Banggood and I have two still in order from some Ebay seller.


br,

tepa

Hi. I checked the 2 I ordered from banggood and they have qmc chips as well...

If you find a reliable source, please share!

Originally Posted by floflolapin

Hi. I checked the 2 I ordered from banggood and they have qmc chips as well...

If you find a reliable source, please share!

Have bought it but not received it yet but the pictures show the chip with the writing L883 followed 2415 on the row beneath. As I receive them I confirm if that's the case in real life.

Here is my "source" in the meantime:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


/D

ok thanks. I'll wait for your answer. thanks

The GY-85 arrived today and I don't know what to make of it.

I took a picture with a cheap USB-microscope I have. The chip says "DB 5883 7007". Googled and couldn't find much about it at all.


I think I got a clone of the original HMC5883L, but at least it doesn't say DX 5883 like those confirmed not working

I will build the headtracker once the Nano-board arrives and report back of success or failure.

Originally Posted by floflolapin

If you find a reliable source, please share!

eBay is your best hope, the pictures show the chip clearly, if they send you something different, just get your money back. ("item didn't match the seller's listing description")

I got all of my boards from ebay, (long time ago though) -and they work flawless.


for example;
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GY-85-9D...4AAOSwXrBbGJaF

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GY-85-9D...i:302761662976

I researched some more on the HMC5883L which is the original name from the original manufacturer (Honeywell). That chip has been discontinued and therefor you will not find it anymore unless you find a old stock somewhere. The license is sold to various chinese manufacturers tough with varying results. I have found several designations of the chip that is reported not working DA, QX ( I think) and DX. I know that there are those that actually work tough since I have the same chip in some of my drone-builds that is equipped with GPS/mag.

Soooooo the Nano arrived today which means it is building time soon. How will I know wether the GY-85 board is working or not? Easiest way to tell? Maybe no easy way?

Really new to R/C, really new Arduino....

Hi.
I hope I'm wrong but my chips have the same making as yours daspunner...

The easiest way is when you connect it to the gui, if you see the graph going back to zero when you stop the movement then the chip is bad...

So I am planning my build now that everything has arrived and I am curious about the orientation of the GY-85. I can place it any way I want right? That's just a matter that I have to adress when calibrating it as I understand. The Arduino nano goes on my headband of the goggles the sensorboard on my goggles side I think.

And since I have a Taranis which only uses a mono stereo jack as a trainer port I figured I'd use the battery of my goggles to power the head tracker via a 5volt BEC. Would this work or would I fry anything?

Hmm looked at the pictures in the first page for how to wire up the two boards and in the example showing the "Pro mini" has a push button for centering. How do I go about with a "Nano"? I want that function.

Originally Posted by Jmel

Finally got my parts... what pin does the momentary switch go on the arduino board-

Attachment 9171425

I have this same pair of components and am soldering under the board like the beginning of the thread...
Is it D11?

EDIT: Well, I followed the instructions

Yes - D11. Also, A6 to GND.

Works great! Just need to button it up and attach to my goggles. I'm really stoked about this. What a great project!

Why A6 to ground?

Originally Posted by daspunner

Hmm looked at the pictures in the first page for how to wire up the two boards and in the example showing the "Pro mini" has a push button for centering. How do I go about with a "Nano"? I want that function.

That button is NOT for centering....

Originally Posted by viper1

That button is NOT for centering....

What? Now I am confused! I am providing a picture to try to clarify what I mean.





Here on the picture showing the "Pro Mini" it clearly says "Push button for centering" but in the picture showing the layout for using the "Nano" that is not depicted. Doesn't the Nano support that function?

Or du I just connect the push button to pin 11 and ground on the Nano aswell? Like this:



You may have noticed thatI know veeeery little of Arduino.

That Nano picture you posted also has the "pushbutton", unsurprisingly yes on the same pin...

Originally Posted by Kilrah

That Nano picture you posted also has the "pushbutton", unsurprisingly yes on the same pin...

Yhe "pushbutton" in blue was added by me! So that is correct then?

Let's clarify for daspunner:
a) The pin A6 must be connected to GND only if you use the piggy back assembly shown on the first post and here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ource%29/page6 post #79.
This only for connecting the GND to sensor board (sort of bridge), the arduino mini or nano do nothing as these pins are set as Inputs, so no fear.

b) The N.O. push button connected to pin 11 and GND resets the Head Tracker to center position if it's pressed briefly.
This also will disable H.T. (locked in center position) if pressed for more than 1.5 second, pressing it again for more than 1.5 sec the H.T. will be re-enabled.

Bye