you guys should try to print waterslide stickers for the rider and then hit them with clear spray to lock in the images and give them abrasion resistance

Originally Posted by JohnnyMc

FYI - You can usually pick up a pair of those shocks for $20-30 brand new on ebay, which is how I purchased mine. On ebay some are listed as fronts some as rear, doest matter as long as they are the 97mm-100 length shocks with the metal caps. There may be a longer version but I look at the specs. The fronts sell quicker so search using key words like: vorza flux shocks big bore. You then can buy a set of pistons or the standoffs cheap at amainhobbies.com and still have like $20 to spare (piston set has 3 different version with 5 holes, i think like 1.4 1.5 and 1.6mm holes, not sure).

Thanks Chris for the set ups and Thanks Johnny...Shocks on ebay ordered! What spring on the shock Chris? The shock I ordered come with Gray springs.
Thanks guys!

Check out my website, I have a post all about Chris's big bore setup.

Originally Posted by Akura2

you guys should try to print waterslide stickers for the rider and then hit them with clear spray to lock in the images and give them abrasion resistance

Dont have any waterslide stickers. Come on Jimmy, be the first test subject!

Originally Posted by TopDave

Thanks Chris for the set ups and Thanks Johnny...Shocks on ebay ordered! What spring on the shock Chris? The shock I ordered come with Gray springs.
Thanks guys!

No worries Dave, you will need to fashion up a bush for the top mount hole. Also like I said I'm using 70 wt with 1.2 pistons. Geared at 12 tooth. depending on track size and condition you might want to start with 11 and try that. Let me know how you go and if you think it's an improvement.

Originally Posted by TopDave

Thanks Chris for the set ups and Thanks Johnny...Shocks on ebay ordered! What spring on the shock Chris? The shock I ordered come with Gray springs.
Thanks guys!

No worries Dave, you will need to fashion up a bush for the top mount hole. Also like I said I'm using 70 wt with 1.2 pistons. Geared at 12 tooth. depending on track size and condition you might want to start with 11 and try that. Let me know how you go and if you think it's an improvement. I'm using the std ( one that comes with the bike ) spring and retainer and stood the shock up two holes. I also screw the retaining ring all the way down until it has run out of thread. The spring pushes it and holds it in place.

Oops, I think I mis spoke about the piston hole sizes then!! Maybe they are 1.1, 1.2, and 1.3mm? Ugh, put a fork in me.

Originally Posted by JohnnyMc

Oops, I think I mis spoke about the piston hole sizes then!! Maybe they are 1.1, 1.2, and 1.3mm? Ugh, put a fork in me.

No your right John they do up to 1.6 I think. I just found 1.2 worked best for me.

Originally Posted by chktm

No worries Dave, you will need to fashion up a bush for the top mount hole. Also like I said I'm using 70 wt with 1.2 pistons. Geared at 12 tooth. depending on track size and condition you might want to start with 11 and try that. Let me know how you go and if you think it's an improvement. I'm using the std ( one that comes with the bike ) spring and retainer and stood the shock up two holes. I also screw the retaining ring all the way down until it has run out of thread. The spring pushes it and holds it in place.

Hey Chris and Johnny, Spent a few hours prepping the MM450 today. Free'd up the sticking forks, changed to an 11 t steel pinion, changed the rear shock angle, installed the new Hobby King/Spektrum reciever and binded (bound?) it to my Transmitter, re-centered the steering arm on the servo because it was off a spline and needed 90 clicks of sub-trim to center it out of the box,lol, re-enforced the front and rear fenders with shoe Goo at the normal cracking points. re routed some of the cobbly wiring so the radiator shrouds would fit over the wires ,More on that later.
Anyhow, I got to the point that I prolly should see if she would run or not and since I had a battery all charged up I plugged in the gyro wire,and pushed it off on my basement floor.... steering trim still needed a few more clicks, then wow! this thing actually will drive around comfortably on my 20' x 30' mini carpet race track!! With my VMX450 I used to have to flog the throttle and steering and brakes to get the bike flop right and left onto the skid bars trying to keep the gyro speed up to negotiate this tight little track. Not now. Plus the bike will "slow balance" very similar to my Duratrax bikes -- only forever! (or until the battery goes dead lol)
I only ran it a couple of minutes cause I wanted to do a couple more things to it. I took it back to the bench and pulled the fake engine replicas off both sides and removed both ESC's,ground off the left-side stand off and the gusset for the skid bar and remounted main ESC down to the skid bar mount, about 5/8", and did the same the the gyro ESC, lowering it a good 3/4" from where they stuck it on the battery case way up close to the steering damper. On my VMX I mounted the motor ESC below the skid bars, but that exposed the esc to damage in crashes so I had to build a lexan shield to protect it from that happening. Just trying to get the CoG lower. This also allowed me to reroute the wires from the ESC to the motor lower in the chassis too. Then I used my custom built 4000mah "half battery" = half as long but thicker than a normal 5000mah battery that sits in the bottom of th battery case which lowers the CG even more. I think I can feel a little less tippyness at slow speeds already with those changes. Next I'll try my gutted out lightened "Vinny" on the bike and see if it helps a little more yet. Yeah Johnny, The E GYRO is for real!! Can't wait to jump this thing.

Originally Posted by TopDave

Hey Chris and Johnny, Spent a few hours prepping the MM450 today. Free'd up the sticking forks, changed to an 11 t steel pinion, changed the rear shock angle, installed the new Hobby King/Spektrum reciever and binded (bound?) it to my Transmitter, re-centered the steering arm on the servo because it was off a spline and needed 90 clicks of sub-trim to center it out of the box,lol, re-enforced the front and rear fenders with shoe Goo at the normal cracking points. re routed some of the cobbly wiring so the radiator shrouds would fit over the wires ,More on that later.
Anyhow, I got to the point that I prolly should see if she would run or not and since I had a battery all charged up I plugged in the gyro wire,and pushed it off on my basement floor.... steering trim still needed a few more clicks, then wow! this thing actually will drive around comfortably on my 20' x 30' mini carpet race track!! With my VMX450 I used to have to flog the throttle and steering and brakes to get the bike flop right and left onto the skid bars trying to keep the gyro speed up to negotiate this tight little track. Not now. Plus the bike will "slow balance" very similar to my Duratrax bikes -- only forever! (or until the battery goes dead lol)
I only ran it a couple of minutes cause I wanted to do a couple more things to it. I took it back to the bench and pulled the fake engine replicas off both sides and removed both ESC's,ground off the left-side stand off and the gusset for the skid bar and remounted main ESC down to the skid bar mount, about 5/8", and did the same the the gyro ESC, lowering it a good 3/4" from where they stuck it on the battery case way up close to the steering damper. On my VMX I mounted the motor ESC below the skid bars, but that exposed the esc to damage in crashes so I had to build a lexan shield to protect it from that happening. Just trying to get the CoG lower. This also allowed me to reroute the wires from the ESC to the motor lower in the chassis too. Then I used my custom built 4000mah "half battery" = half as long but thicker than a normal 5000mah battery that sits in the bottom of th battery case which lowers the CG even more. I think I can feel a little less tippyness at slow speeds already with those changes. Next I'll try my gutted out lightened "Vinny" on the bike and see if it helps a little more yet. Yeah Johnny, The E GYRO is for real!! Can't wait to jump this thing.

It's for real all right Dave. Best thing ever IMO. All the power goes to the rear wheel and endless balance. Have fun. brilliant bike.

Hi guys,
First of all sorry if this is a dummy question.

I got my new VMM last Friday and everything is perfect, but when I connect the battery to the ESC the eGyro is spooling at full speed and cant get the engine runnig. Can this a radio setup issue? An ESC setup?
I new with Rc Bikes and been been flying RC electric planes for 5 years now. This look like a radio/esc programming issue.
I can not find anything in the manual, and I hope your experince can give me some light !!

Many thanks in advance

Originally Posted by ldilauro

Hi guys,
First of all sorry if this is a dummy question.

I got my new VMM last Friday and everything is perfect, but when I connect the battery to the ESC the eGyro is spooling at full speed and cant get the engine runnig. Can this a radio setup issue? An ESC setup?
I new with Rc Bikes and been been flying RC electric planes for 5 years now. This look like a radio/esc programming issue.
I can not find anything in the manual, and I hope your experince can give me some light !!

Many thanks in advance

Half of the bikes I sell I get this same question The gyro is hardwired to the battery. There is a power switch below the ESC. you need to turn that switch on for the esc/rx to power up.

I always remove the switch and just hardwire it on BTW.

Originally Posted by EricSchlaifer

Half of the bikes I sell I get this same question The gyro is hardwired to the battery. There is a power switch below the ESC. you need to turn that switch on for the esc/rx to power up.

I always remove the switch and just hardwire it on BTW.

Speaking of switches tho' , I hate having to plugg the battery in to power up the esc/rx, and gyro, then throw the tank/fender/rider on then find the clips and make sure ya turned on the transmitter before ya plugged it in, make sure Vinnie's/Deegan's feet are safely tucked out of harms way, all the while the gyro is screaming for mercy at 12,000+ RPM in the back wheel
Who makes a switch small enough but able to handle the amp load of the gyro and be reliable and fit on an off road MX Bike? Just wondering

Originally Posted by TopDave

Speaking of switches tho' , I hate having to plugg the battery in to power up the esc/rx, and gyro, then throw the tank/fender/rider on then find the clips and make sure ya turned on the transmitter before ya plugged it in, make sure Vinnie's/Deegan's feet are safely tucked out of harms way, all the while the gyro is screaming for mercy at 12,000+ RPM in the back wheel
Who makes a switch small enough but able to handle the amp load of the gyro and be reliable and fit on an off road MX Bike? Just wondering

Dave why would you pull all that off to fit the battery. Leave the body and rider in place fit the battery and your off.

Originally Posted by chktm

Dave why would you pull all that off to fit the battery. Leave the body and rider in place fit the battery and your off.

lololol, I run Deans connectors on my batterys and they are always a giant pain in the A-- to plug and unplug them up under the body. (also thought I would end up wrecking the lexan body) But I will try it your way because I always seem to make everything just a little harder than it needs to be