Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 05:39 PM
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OK could use some input here from the multicopter geniuses.

I am trying to get the Aquacopter flying. Using the KK2 and some 18A Plushes.

The issue: one motor is late on startup. I fear this means it is not going to respond to the FC properly either = unflyable quad. They do all spool up, but there is about 5% difference in channel value on the stick between when 3 motors start, then the last one (Motor#1) starts.

I have carefully used a card to get all the ESCs programmed identically. I replaced one of the motors which seemed to have been a bad one. All the ESCs are new, however 2 of them were purchased many months ago, and two others I just received. I also went through the KK2 ESC calibration multiple times, but no changes evident.

Thing I fear most: having to tear them down and figure out how to flash them to SimonK firmware

Or should I just try to fly with it as is and hope the FC can figure it out in the air?
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 05:47 PM
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I don't recommend flying with them not working at the same time. That would be bad as some motors will speed up and others won't. It's hard enough to get your bearings right when you are first learning, that would just add a bit more than you need. I found calibration was what fixed that for me. It took me a few tries as it was hard pushing the buttons until my fingers hurted the first time since you're supposed to listen to the beeps which I never know what they mean. This is why I used the programmer at first setup to make sure they were all working the same way. Try again but make sure to push the controller button 1 and 4 down as I think they really need to be pressed down a bit. Other than that I can't say what else may be going on with them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BCSaltchucker View Post
OK could use some input here from the multicopter geniuses.

I am trying to get the Aquacopter flying. Using the KK2 and some 18A Plushes.

The issue: one motor is late on startup. I fear this means it is not going to respond to the FC properly either = unflyable quad. They do all spool up, but there is about 5% difference in channel value on the stick between when 3 motors start, then the last one (Motor#1) starts.

I have carefully used a card to get all the ESCs programmed identically. I replaced one of the motors which seemed to have been a bad one. All the ESCs are new, however 2 of them were purchased many months ago, and two others I just received. I also went through the KK2 ESC calibration multiple times, but no changes evident.

Thing I fear most: having to tear them down and figure out how to flash them to SimonK firmware

Or should I just try to fly with it as is and hope the FC can figure it out in the air?
Old Jan 23, 2013, 05:51 PM
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maybe I ought to just hook that one motor up to another Rx and program it's range to be a bit longer than the others, hoping the startup and throttle curve will be closer to the others. But that could cause issues on powering up the quad.

edit - just tried that longer throttle range. the problem persists, no change
Last edited by BCSaltchucker; Jan 23, 2013 at 06:00 PM.
Old Jan 23, 2013, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCSaltchucker View Post
OK could use some input here from the multicopter geniuses.

I am trying to get the Aquacopter flying. Using the KK2 and some 18A Plushes.

The issue: one motor is late on startup. I fear this means it is not going to respond to the FC properly either = unflyable quad. They do all spool up, but there is about 5% difference in channel value on the stick between when 3 motors start, then the last one (Motor#1) starts.

I have carefully used a card to get all the ESCs programmed identically. I replaced one of the motors which seemed to have been a bad one. All the ESCs are new, however 2 of them were purchased many months ago, and two others I just received. I also went through the KK2 ESC calibration multiple times, but no changes evident.

Thing I fear most: having to tear them down and figure out how to flash them to SimonK firmware

Or should I just try to fly with it as is and hope the FC can figure it out in the air?
Plushes have gone from Atmel based to SiLabs. If you have 2 old ones and 2 new ones it's entirely likely you basically have two different ESC's there. The SiLabs ones can't be flashed with the same firmware or the same flash tools as the Atmel based ones. I'd confirm your plushes are all the same underneath the shrinkwrap and go from there.
Old Jan 23, 2013, 06:16 PM
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I thought I would post an initial video of my quad with the KK2.0 board with a GoPro3 White hard mounted just to show how steady this thing is. I am in auto level the whole time, and had to drop it at the end to avoid hitting some poeple. So the video is not all that exciting, just illustrating how rock solid smooth it is.

I do get a little oscillation when reducing power, but I have not played with the P and I gains too much yet.

Ken

GoPro3 White on Quadcopter Stability Test (5 min 37 sec)
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WendoNZ View Post
Plushes have gone from Atmel based to SiLabs. If you have 2 old ones and 2 new ones it's entirely likely you basically have two different ESC's there. The SiLabs ones can't be flashed with the same firmware or the same flash tools as the Atmel based ones. I'd confirm your plushes are all the same underneath the shrinkwrap and go from there.
thanks. I had heard of this change in chip. joy of joys.

I think I will at least try a couple hops to see how the FC manages. Have already dialled in some recommended PIDs
Old Jan 23, 2013, 06:59 PM
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update: if flies very well! Just seems to be a minor glitch on lift off then all is normal. Pretty stable but of course not like the nanny-FC my Naza quad is.

I actually don't see a lot of difference between self-level off and self-level on. I am fairly new to flying without the help of Naza Atti, but I think I can manage, esp when flying FPV.

thanks guys
Old Jan 23, 2013, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCSaltchucker View Post
OK could use some input here from the multicopter geniuses.....
Under "Misc Settings" what is your "Min throttle" setting.
I had the same problem and solved it by putting the "Min throttle" at 10.

Have you done the KK2 ESC Calibration?
Old Jan 23, 2013, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dz1sfb View Post
I thought I would post an initial video of my quad with the KK2.0 board with a GoPro3.....
Nice! I wish we had a place like that to fly.

Did you have the cam set up in full HD mode.
If it is they seem to have a better lens than the earlier GoPro's.
Less distortion.
Old Jan 23, 2013, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by harrym View Post
Nice! I wish we had a place like that to fly.

Did you have the cam set up in full HD mode.
If it is they seem to have a better lens than the earlier GoPro's.
Less distortion.
The facility is the Ultimate Soccer Arena in Pontiac MI. sponsored by the Skymasters Club.

Camera was set for 720p @ 60 FPS.

Ken
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Last edited by dz1sfb; Jan 23, 2013 at 08:30 PM.
Old Jan 24, 2013, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCSaltchucker View Post
thanks. I had heard of this change in chip. joy of joys.
In this spreadsheet you can find pictures of both versions. The layout is quite different, so I was able to identify my Plush 18 as being the Atmel version without undressing them. They are now flashed with SimonK FW.

Fred
Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:19 AM
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He does not have Deans on batteries or watt meter. His are all 4mm bullet with the red hoods.
Sorry, should have added some more text. If you focus on the 4mm bullets, you'll see that one picture shows the male in the wide sleeve, while the other has in the narrow sleeve. You stated that smaller plastic connector sleeve should have the male metal connector inside. I have had mine like the first picture since late 80's without any issues, until Hobbyking started selling pre-made stuff
Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:28 AM
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My batteries also came the other way around which are not from hobbyking, but they also match the charger from hobbyking. As long as you keep the wires correct, red to red and black to black, I think you should be fine, so I just followed what the batteries had so I don't have to change those too. In my case with the wattmeter, I didn't check the one side with anything other than a battery so i needed to make the actual connector swap but leaving my wires the same. I had not used it for anything since I bought it so I didn't catch that on there until yesterday. I can't speak for him, but this is for what happened on my end. Just to clarify, all seems to work now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flarssen View Post
Sorry, should have added some more text. If you focus on the 4mm bullets, you'll see that one picture shows the male in the wide sleeve, while the other has in the narrow sleeve. You stated that smaller plastic connector sleeve should have the male metal connector inside. I have had mine like the first picture since late 80's without any issues, until Hobbyking started selling pre-made stuff
Old Jan 24, 2013, 02:03 AM
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Hi folks, just to be 100% sure, I understood that if I need camera stab, I have to use a separate KK2 board for it and a different KK2 board to control the quad, is this right ?
Old Jan 24, 2013, 02:19 AM
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Hi , You need only one board, but you have to upgrade to FW 1.5 .
Look at the first post.
Kind Regards