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Old Nov 20, 2012, 10:38 PM
Dirt-Torpedo is offline
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...just an earth bound misfit
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Happy, having done the same thing I still think that top soldering has some potential hazards (solder balls) and personally went with a single pin header on the top side of the board for my second go around.

You've obviously got some info on these components if you know the breakdown voltage - can you give us a part number for U8?

I'm thinking that the Hunter V-Tail might be a nice home for this board if I can get it fixed.

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Old Nov 20, 2012, 11:00 PM
alumina is offline
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well it was definitely c38 I touched. Sh@!@#IT
how can I repair U8? I don't know why but it doesn't sound easy.....
Old Nov 20, 2012, 11:04 PM
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torpedo, am I seeing right or you did exactly what I did (trimming strands and touching c38)????
if so I would feel so much bettere\less stupid
Old Nov 20, 2012, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappySundays View Post
Ok next time solder the wire from the *bottom* and cut the top flush so no strands are loose.

Now, looking at the circuit, if the wire had touched Q2, there should be no ill effect as one side is grounded, the other has a 3k3 resistor on it and the collector is too far away...
If it was R11 or C38 that was touched, you probably killed U8 which has a max input voltage of 6V. U8 provides the reference voltage I mentioned before.
Touching R17 and R16 is fine but if you'd managed to touch the junction of R12 and 13, U8 would be toast.

So, basically unless you can repair U8 and possibly more, you might need a new KK2.
This wire does not need to be big. It's not a high current draw. Just a voltage monitor. 22 Ga would probably be fine.

Sudsy
Old Nov 20, 2012, 11:43 PM
alumina is offline
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i know buut the hole at the other end, in the distribution board, was big. Next time I'll do it differently for sure
Old Nov 20, 2012, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by alumina View Post
i know buut the hole at the other end, in the distribution board, was big. Next time I'll do it differently for sure
Here is a hint. Tin the end of the wire. (put some solder on it) and also tin the contact point on the board. Then solder them together. Should make a good shiny connection.

S
Old Nov 21, 2012, 12:43 AM
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Upside down indicator


Is there a way to use a ledstrip that is linked to the status of the quad?
For instance, use additional red ledstrip that is linked to the controller and switches on when its upside down.
It would help a lot to learn to flip (the quad of course) and it would be a nice effect for experienced flippers
Old Nov 21, 2012, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julkabas View Post
Is there a way to use a ledstrip that is linked to the status of the quad?
For instance, use additional red ledstrip that is linked to the controller and switches on when its upside down.
It would help a lot to learn to flip (the quad of course) and it would be a nice effect for experienced flippers
You could use a tilt switch for that:

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10289
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stigern View Post
You could use a tilt switch for that:

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10289
Thanks ! Great "keep it simple" solution.
Old Nov 21, 2012, 01:44 AM
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I try to read and understand information on page 1 on setting the gain, but still don't understand how to set I gain what the effect of to little or to high I gain.
Should I just let it at 50% of P gain?
Old Nov 21, 2012, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by pinguin View Post
I try to read and understand information on page 1 on setting the gain, but still don't understand how to set I gain what the effect of to little or to high I gain.
Should I just let it at 50% of P gain?
No, although it may work if you lucky.

After you set P with low I and have no vibration,
slowly increase I after you get vibration again, last value with out vibration is good.
too high I vibration/wobble
too low does not not fly nice as with good I.
P is most important but I makes flying under angle better and hoover is more stable.
Old Nov 21, 2012, 03:14 AM
HappySundays is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo View Post
Happy, having done the same thing I still think that top soldering has some potential hazards (solder balls) and personally went with a single pin header on the top side of the board for my second go around.

You've obviously got some info on these components if you know the breakdown voltage - can you give us a part number for U8?
It's a MAX8892 voltage regulator
Old Nov 21, 2012, 04:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChilternFlyer View Post
Got it!
The other board is a stripped down receiver.
The aux 1 channel has a LED driver (servo driver PCB or something) attached to it (you can see it in the side view shot).
The aux 1 is mixed with the autolevel switching channel (channel 5).
When the autolevel is turned on. The led driver switches the LED on.

All you need is a broken micro servo and an LED
simples!!
Lost me on the "broken servo" how dose that switch the led ?

Jeff
Old Nov 21, 2012, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
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Lost me on the "broken servo" how dose that switch the led ?

Jeff
The servo electronics have an internal signal that is defined by the position of the pot. It compares the input signal from the receiver with the internal signal. If there is a mismatch, it powers the motor, and the servo arm and pot rotates until the internal signal matches the one from the receiver. Bigger difference between signals means more power to the motor. When pot is replaced with fixed resistors, internal signal will always be the same. If this fixed signal represents the neutral position, a stick movement in one direction gives voltage on the motor wires (LED). The further the stick is away from center, the higher the voltage will be. If stick is moved the other way, the same happens but voltage will have opposite polarity. So by connecting one red and one green LED to the motor output with opposite orientation, one can have red/ off /green when used with a three position switch on the TX.

Fred
Last edited by flarssen; Nov 21, 2012 at 06:39 AM.
Old Nov 21, 2012, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by harrym View Post
Thanks!

I'm getting tired of HK and their processes. I now have a frame that is missing parts and this is their reply after dealing with cust. sup. for a week.

"Thank you for the photos, I have opened a claim file for you for order #0000000000 . The case is now under investigation with various internal departments and post office. As soon as there is update on investigation, we will contact you again."

Who knows how long this will take. I almost refused the shipment because the box was almost destroyed. I'm lucky everything I ordered was still in it.
You can just forget your claim. I bought a Gaui 255 and the landing skid broke. They said they already submit the problem to the vendor but it is been 2 years I never received any replacement yet.