Hey Freakazoid, another possibility that may or may not have anything to do with what you are seeing is a high resistance solder connection (or just connection) somewhere between the battery and your power distribution to the ESCs and BEC?

I have noticed just about everything now is ROHS and doesn't use leaded solder. It's hard as hell to get a good solder joint with a regular iron and I end up retinning everything with leaded solder to get good low-resistance joins.

But any high resistance connections will have potentially (no pun intended) large voltage drops across them when the currents go up under load. Those voltage drops will for all practical purposes look like a bad cell as far as the overall voltage is concerned and could drop voltage to your BEC enough that it drops out.

Just a thought.

Originally Posted by Freakazoid

If its a dodgy lipo cell, then all 3 of my brand new nanotechs have a dodgy cell.
It could be the BEC thats powering the board thats making a stink somehow?

...

I just calibrated my ESCs last night using the KK2 and thought you were wrong on this until I checked the source code:

"b16ldi Temp, 200 ;amplify the throttle signal to make sure it covers the 1-2ms range." Math follows.

Even though the KK2 says on the screen "Throttle pass-through", it really isn't and there is a bit of massaging of the throttle pulse width before it gets sent out to the ESCs.

The reason I comment is that I was confused by the on-screen message and then seeing your comment.

Originally Posted by kaptondave

Calibrating through the KK2 is recommended because the firmware expands the transmitter throttle range slightly to assure that the ESC end-points are covered.

Apart from the ESC itself, ive soldered everything with leaded tin. :P
And id think, if resistance was the problem, it would only occur when load changes drastically?
It randomly "boops" even when im just hovering around a bit though.

Originally Posted by RobertSF

Hey Freakazoid, another possibility that may or may not have anything to do with what you are seeing is a high resistance solder connection (or just connection) somewhere between the battery and your power distribution to the ESCs and BEC?

I have noticed just about everything now is ROHS and doesn't use leaded solder. It's hard as hell to get a good solder joint with a regular iron and I end up retinning everything with leaded solder to get good low-resistance joins.

But any high resistance connections will have potentially (no pun intended) large voltage drops across them when the currents go up under load. Those voltage drops will for all practical purposes look like a bad cell as far as the overall voltage is concerned and could drop voltage to your BEC enough that it drops out.

Just a thought.

Originally Posted by Senator315

Have you updated the firmware to V1.5?

Yes I'm using firmware version 1.5, servo is plugged into m8.

Originally Posted by Datacide

Yes I'm using firmware version 1.5, servo is plugged into m8.

Ok, now go into cam stab and raise the gains up to around 500. From there the servo will work. Then raise or lower it so the gimbal stays level. A lower number makes it move slower and higher faster.

Originally Posted by teccer1234

I've just flashed my second board to v1.5, the first one works ok but this one worked for a while, while I was setting up all the setting I intended to use on this board suddenly decided to not arm, no matter what I've tried to do it still will not arm, on receiver test everything shows ok I've tried raising and lowering the rudder setting still nothing, I've re flashed it twice and still not arming, have I bricked it???or am I missing something?
ray

now I've flashed it to v1.4 and still it will not arm????

Mine has started doing the same thing. I thought it might be my sub trims as well so I zeroed those out to no effect. I also tried making a copy of the model in the transmitter, but that didn't work either. This is the only thing that works for me. Turn the transmitter on first (I know this is not a good idea generally). Turn on the KK2, and while it is booting up move the rudder stick to the arming position. Mine will arm using this procedure.

This problem isn't at all consistent. Sometimes it will arm normally, and sometimes if I have to use the workaround, then shut everything off to change batteries it will work normally after that.

Originally Posted by Senator315

Ok, now go into cam stab and raise the gains up to around 500. From there the servo will work. Then raise or lower it so the gimbal stays level. A lower number makes it move slower and higher faster.

Is it true that I need to raise the roll gains even if I'm only using the pitch axis? I will try tonight when I come home from work.

thank you.

Originally Posted by Datacide

Is it true that I need to raise the roll gains even if I'm only using the pitch axis? I will try tonight when I come home from work.

thank you.

No not true, just raise the one your using.

Originally Posted by Senator315

No not true, just raise the one your using.

Hmm, I did this last night and it would not work.

Originally Posted by Imageek2

Mine has started doing the same thing. I thought it might be my sub trims as well so I zeroed those out to no effect. I also tried making a copy of the model in the transmitter, but that didn't work either. This is the only thing that works for me. Turn the transmitter on first (I know this is not a good idea generally). Turn on the KK2, and while it is booting up move the rudder stick to the arming position. Mine will arm using this procedure.

This problem isn't at all consistent. Sometimes it will arm normally, and sometimes if I have to use the workaround, then shut everything off to change batteries it will work normally after that.

Where the hell do you get that from.?

It has always been standard procedure FOR SAFETY reasonsto switch the TX on first and off last.

Look in any RC manual and it will state that procedure.

Only time it is done different is when binding a new Rx which should be done without other stuff connected anyway.

Deyrick

[QUOTE=Imageek2;24351439]Mine has started doing the same thing.

Turn on the KK2, and while it is booting up move the rudder stick to the arming position. Mine will arm using this procedure.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

thank for trying to help but tried that tonight but no joy, so tomorrow I'll try to set it up on another channel on the tx and see if that helps.

strange thing is that according to the receiver checks everything is working ok including the rudder????
thanks again
ray

Have you tried lowering your Throttle trim as well, the KK2 needs zero throttle to arm as well as full rudder.

Make sure in the Rx test screen that min Throttle is 0 or below and that right Rudder is 100 or above.

Deyrick

Originally Posted by Del-Dredd

Have you tried lowering your Throttle trim as well, the KK2 needs zero throttle to arm as well as full rudder.

Make sure in the Rx test screen that min Throttle is 0 or below and that right Rudder is 100 or above.

Hi Deyrick
thanks for that, it's dark here now but I check that out tomorrow.

ray

No problem, you can check it arms inside you know.

Deyrick

Originally Posted by Del-Dredd

Where the hell do you get that from.?

It has always been standard procedure FOR SAFETY reasonsto switch the TX on first and off last.

Look in any RC manual and it will state that procedure.

Only time it is done different is when binding a new Rx which should be done without other stuff connected anyway.

Deyrick

I thought I read that was the correct order. Thanks for the correction.