Originally Posted by Del-Dredd

I have flashed the two i have in use up to 1.4 with everything connected, no issues.

Thanks, I'll give it a go.

Col.

Originally Posted by WalneyCol

Thanks, I'll give it a go.

Col.

I have flashed plenty of times with everything still connected ( but unpowered ). I think the issue might be that powering the board powers the Rx and some back current through M1. If your USB port is not up to the task the flash might fail or cause issues, if that is the case remove the wires and try again.

Originally Posted by srepfler

Good result,
previous default 1.0-1.2 for self level ( 40 20) was better for me, 100 is to high.
new default for P and I are lower and suite most flyers, but if you can bum them up you get much more stable flight, they are good start point.
Yaw P 150 from 1.0 is good for me, new 50 makes tail drift.
But for start definitely better values (except self level).

Thanks for sharing this . I tested them all after flashing to 1.5v and they are flying but still need to see and do more tuning to make it better.

Hi
I have just completed my first quad using a KK2 LCD controller.

It flies great with Emax 2822 motors and 20a HK Esc's. 8x 4.5 props
.

Presently using 2200ma 3s lipo's

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to use larger Lipo's (3s) and if so,how large.

Thanks

Originally Posted by geedee

Hi
I have just completed my first quad using a KK2 LCD controller.
It flies great with Emax 2822 motors and 20a HK Esc's. 8x 4.5 props
.
Presently using 2200ma 3s lipo's
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to use larger Lipo's (3s) and if so,how large.
Thanks

Try this calculator....
http://www.ecalc.ch/xcoptercalc_e.htm?ecalc

Just found it on another thread as well.

Thanks

Originally Posted by harrym

Try this calculator....
http://www.ecalc.ch/xcoptercalc_e.htm?ecalc

A larger capacity LiPo will add weight so it depends on your machine.
The larger capacity won't hurt anything.

I use 3000mAh (20C - good for around 60A) and 4000mAh (40C - used in a speedboat also, good for 160A) for my larger copters...

Check with the calc-tools how many Amperes your machine draws and align your battery to the needs.... (BTW: higher C-Rate = more weight as these cells have more density)

Does this answer your question?

Originally Posted by alumina

thanks northwest, you were the only one that gave me a feedback on my video.
from what you see on the video can you say if the quad is stable or not? or that is something that you only can feel while flying it?

Looks stable as far I can see in your video... But it is more important what do YOU think about - you are flying this baby ;-)

ATM I am more into larger quads - hey behave different compared to sport-quads...


Hangar:
WLToys V929 Miniquad
XAircraft X450Pro (V1) + Compass&GPS
X8-550 Quad(Octo) with Gimbal on AUX-Channel (KK2-Board)
X-550 Hexa (KK2-Board)
X-600 (KK2-Board)
X-650 (DJI Naza+GPS)

.... maybe more to come - Winter is cold in Austria ;-)

Originally Posted by geedee

Hi
I have just completed my first quad using a KK2 LCD controller.

It flies great with Emax 2822 motors and 20a HK Esc's. 8x 4.5 props
.

Presently using 2200ma 3s lipo's

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to use larger Lipo's (3s) and if so,how large.

Thanks

My son's KMAN Kopter used Emax CF2822 motors with 30A ESC and 3S 4000Mah LIPO with no problems. I do not think the emax CF2822 motors can handle 4 cells.

Originally Posted by rcjose

My son's KMAN Kopter used Emax CF2822 motors with 30A ESC and 3S 4000Mah LIPO with no problems. I do not think the emax CF2822 motors can handle 4 cells.

Look at the Voltage (Voltage = 7.2 to 12.6 ), it can handle 3s perfect but not 4S if you are looking for a light weight Batt take a look at ZIPPY Compact series from Hobbyking. Nice performamce not the best but acceptable and lighter.

EMAX CF 2822
Recommended props when using 3 cell Lipo batteries:

The GWS EP9050 produces 30 ounces of thrust at 17 amps. Use with caution

The GWS EP8040 produces about 24 ounces of thrust at 12 amps. Best all around prop for this motor.

The APC 8x4E produces 25 ounces of thrust at 14 amps.

The GWS HD8060 produces 22 ounces of thrust at 17 amps. Use with caution

The GWS EP7035 produces 15 ounces of thrust at 7 amps.

The APC 7x6E produces 19 ounces of thrust at 12 amps.

Recommended props when using 2 cell Lipo batteries:

The GWS EP1170 prop produces about 21 ounces of thrust at 15 amps

The GWS EP1060 prop produces about 18 ounces of thrust at 12 amps.

The GWS EP1047 prop produces about 19 ounces of thrust at 13 amps.

The GWS EP9050 prop produces about 16 ounces of thrust at 10 amps.

The GWS EP8040 prop produces about 12 ounces of thrust at 6.5 amps.

Please be aware that the battery used can make a tremendous amount of difference in the performance of brushless motors. The above data was obtained using batteries in good condition that were fully charged. Thrust and amp draw may be less with the use of batteries rated at lower amp output, and slightly more using batteries rated for higher amp output. Other factors, such as ESC timing and variations in actual motor KV can affect the performance of brushless motors as well. We recommend the use of a Watt Meter to test the current draw of your particular power system, especially if you plan to use a prop that pushes the motor near it's maximum amp rating.

EMAX CF2822 Specifications:

Weight = 1.4 ounces (39 grams)

Diameter = 1.1 inch (28mm)

Length not including shaft = 1.2 inches (30mm)

Shaft Length = 0.62 inches (15mm)

Shaft Diameter = 3mm

Bearing Size = 3mm x 8mm x 4mm

Voltage = 7.2 to 12.6

KV = 1300

Current = 16 amp maximum for 60 seconds

Originally Posted by juanquy

Look at the Voltage (Voltage = 7.2 to 12.6 ), ......

Where do you get your prop data?
Can you provide a link please.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by brontide

For those with DEAD BOARDS ONLY. Changing fuses is an unsafe operation and if your board is working you should never mess with them.

You have nothing else to lose, you can try a fuse reset. On my Mac the command would be similar to the following, but may be different for your system. I use the terminal and use the avrdude within the KK flashing tool.

./avrdude -C ./avrdude.conf -c usbasp -p m324pa -U lfuse:w:0xf7:m -U hfuse:w:0xd7:m -U efuse:w:0xfc:m -F

The one below is FOR TESTING ONLY, it switches to the internal chip clock. I needed to use these fuses to revive my board that was locking up. DO NOT FLY WITH THE FUSES BELOW. They are useful for the boards that are no longer responsive, but need to be applied as soon as the programmer is plugged in. After flashing with these I was able to flash and the set the proper fuses and the board has been flying ever since.

./avrdude -C ./avrdude.conf -c usbasp -p m324pa -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0xd7:m -U efuse:w:0xfc:m -F

Awesome, saved mine after a corrupt upload. Tip, don't program your KK2 while on the couch with the dog.

Originally Posted by HappySundays

If the motors started to spin during "calibration" then you did it wrong.
If you do calibration correctly the motors will not spin until you finish the process, then repower the board and ESCs.

Got my new ESC and the calibration went smooth. Like you said, it was operator error the first time.

Hey, everyone.

I have a problem with my KK2.0. I am almost sure it is my fault, though.

I have been flying my FPV quad for a few weeks now. I have had great luck with the KK2.0, except for the arming. I need to leave it on always armed as I can't get it to arm with rudder. I have made sure the rudder channel reads 100% in both directions on the RX test. But it still will not arm. This is on firmware 1.2.

I have just updated to 1.5 to take advantage of autolevel, but there is no more always armed setting. Does anyone have any ideas how to arm the board?

Thank you so much in advance.
Will