Originally Posted by gsfakian

Ok, after a successful flashing to v1.2 (stock) from 1.0 my SK450 flies still good.. I've noticed with my Corona set that if sometimes it doesn't get signal it appears error no Yaw signal which goes away ONLY with power cycle... does it happen to you also? Is there any problem with the flashing maybe? I used the first's post file... All others seem to work ok except that i don;t quite understand the self level trims... is the + right (front) and the - values left (back) ? Which step should i use? By 5 , by 10? Any help for a newbie? Also my Zippy 2650 40C seem unable to handle the 582W max (50.2 Amp)... If i use two of them in parallel is it ok? Or i loose in weight? Sorry for the lot of questions!!! Thanks!!

I suspect your Corona receiver is too slow connecting to your transmitter and lingers too long before feeding signals to the KK2.0 board.

You did the sensor calibration on a level surface, but still the copter is moving away in auto level mode? If so, watch the videos on the first page of this thread. Leaving the 'trim' values at zero and tilting the quad slightly while doing the sensor calibration worked best for me. If I adjusted the trim values my copter would sometimes do strange things (e.g. move left or right quite fast) after turning on auto level.

Happened again. Came down a little hard and the quad did an immediate 360 flip. I have to imagine that AL is getting confused since I don't k now how else I could accomplish that with AL on and an otherwise uneventful flight.

Heres another boring video! Im becoming a fan boy of KK1.2 STOCK>>> On board footage is up next.

QuadSuckers (5 min 16 sec)

Originally Posted by brontide

Happened again. Came down a little hard and the quad did an immediate 360 flip. I have to imagine that AL is getting confused since I don't k now how else I could accomplish that with AL on and an otherwise uneventful flight.

the accelerometer is telling the board that it's trying to respond to an imput and the board tells the motors to compensate for what it's being told from the gyros and the accelerometer and if you still have the least bit of throttle on it will probably make it jump enought to filp it. If I bring my Hex in hot it'll do quite a dance till I kill the throttle.

Originally Posted by brontide

Happened again. Came down a little hard and the quad did an immediate 360 flip. I have to imagine that AL is getting confused since I don't k now how else I could accomplish that with AL on and an otherwise uneventful flight.

Can you tell us what sort of frame you are using, and what your gain settings are. Running gains too high will make the heli flyable, but can make for some weird action, especially landing and taking off. ... especially in AL.

UnEdited Acro Quadcopter (6 min 29 sec)

Originally Posted by brontide

Happened again. Came down a little hard and the quad did an immediate 360 flip. I have to imagine that AL is getting confused since I don't k now how else I could accomplish that with AL on and an otherwise uneventful flight.

Hey Buddy.
Somewere real early in this thread, KK talks about "blowout" when refering to the onboard memory. I know when I first I got my board I had all the gains way up in an attempt to make it more stable. mine used to flip like you described even to the point where it jumped up and bit me on the arm. I can't remember exactly where the post is but its in the first 10 pages.... I think. lol.

Best of luck.

Pete.

Originally Posted by knobby1

This battery should easily be able to handle it, it's good for over 100amps continuous, possibly a defective battery or the connections/wiring are poor. What ESC's and motors are you using??

I often run a 3s 2200mah 30c (66amp) Zippy battery with no issues. I'm running NTM prop-drive 35-30/1100kv motors too, they're good for 350w (on 3s) and can pull over 30a each, of course they'll never reach this on a normal size quad.

I ran my watt-meter over it at full noise and I'm only pulling 42amps (466w) total running 10x4.7 props with F20A 20amp (SimonK) ESC's which means I should be able to run much larger props and still be ok....my quad is silly powerfull as it is and is capable of over 1.5kw on 4s
Where a ~1kg quad is going to need this sort of power is beyond me....there's no substitute for cubes though..!! Just can help myself

Cheers,
Smithy.

Thanks for your feedback!!!... This is very strange because i have FOUR Zippy 2650 40C (Which run fine on my ICON A5 in series 6S ). I have NEVER over discharged them!!.. Now on my quad with Turnigy Plush 30A (stock) and NTM2826 1200Kv and 8x4 props it draws at max throttle 50.6A, Which Zippy 2650 can 'survive' one or two minutes before alarm at 11V!!!!!!!! ... For test i ordered Zippy 2200 45C (only 5C more), and gives me fly time 7:30 minutes before the first beep!!! Is it possible to have 4 batts damaged? I doubt... I use Deans connectors and the main cable is very thick!, All connections very well soldered! No other plugs in the circuit!!... Now i have ordered one Turnigy nano-tech 2200 4S 45-90C to see how it performs... it has almost the same weight with ZIppy 3S(!)... Any recommendations are welcome!!!



P.S. I am curious... you run 20Amp ESC for this motor?? It recommends 40A(!)... and you are pulling ONLY such a low amperage? Is the SimonK firmware do the "magic" ? I think i have my hands 'tied' with Plush!! they are not programmable eh? Now i only have to test with different timings to see what happens? Which timing mode would be better for NTM motors?

Originally Posted by RC911

I suspect your Corona receiver is too slow connecting to your transmitter and lingers too long before feeding signals to the KK2.0 board.

You did the sensor calibration on a level surface, but still the copter is moving away in auto level mode? If so, watch the videos on the first page of this thread. Leaving the 'trim' values at zero and tilting the quad slightly while doing the sensor calibration worked best for me. If I adjusted the trim values my copter would sometimes do strange things (e.g. move left or right quite fast) after turning on auto level.

Thanks.... yes i know.. corona has a problem with binding every time.. BUT this wasn't happening with the old firmware... if no signal, it would wait until signal comes... Now if it doesn't have signal in the first second it makes the error.. but it's ok i can handle... i was just asking... As for the trim.. yes.. it still (after flashing) drifts forward... This is why mainly i upgraded to use the trim function and not the calibrate 'trick'.. i had already read... (actually i have spent many many hours reading before posting anything here! ha ha)... Now i think i have reached i very good level as a newbie but TWO things still concern me... The battery setup (Zippy case) and the speedcontrol firmware/upgrade...should i try something on Plush 30 or buy some blues and 'hit' them? VERY BAD thing the NO EXISTENCE of the stock firmware of the ESC generally!!! Why the hell they lock the original firmware??? What's the point? Do they have Apple Store??? ha ha ha!!!

Originally Posted by gsfakian

Thanks for your feedback!!!... This is very strange because i have FOUR Zippy 2650 40C (Which run fine on my ICON A5 in series 6S ). I have NEVER over discharged them!!.. Now on my quad with Turnigy Plush 30A (stock) and NTM2826 1200Kv and 8x4 props it draws at max throttle 50.6A, Which Zippy 2650 can 'survive' one or two minutes before alarm at 11V!!!!!!!! ... For test i ordered Zippy 2200 45C (only 5C more), and gives me fly time 7:30 minutes before the first beep!!! Is it possible to have 4 batts damaged? I doubt... I use Deans connectors and the main cable is very thick!, All connections very well soldered! No other plugs in the circuit!!... Now i have ordered one Turnigy nano-tech 2200 4S 45-90C to see how it performs... it has almost the same weight with ZIppy 3S(!)... Any recommendations are welcome!!!



P.S. I am curious... you run 20Amp ESC for this motor?? It recommends 40A(!)... and you are pulling ONLY such a low amperage? Is the SimonK firmware do the "magic" ? I think i have my hands 'tied' with Plush!! they are not programmable eh? Now i only have to test with different timings to see what happens? Which timing mode would be better for NTM motors?

YES YOU CAN HAVE FOUR LIPOS GO BAD even six

If your charger is faulty............ dont ask

Originally Posted by Upup

YES YOU CAN HAVE FOUR LIPOS GO BAD even six

If your charger is faulty............ dont ask

?? The charger i use most is RC Power BC6.. never charged more than 4.20v (not even 4.21!) per cell, and never undercharged a battery of these more than half of capacity.. (3.6v max per cell at downside..).. and ALWAYS charging/balancing at 1C... other than that... I CANNOT UNDERSTAND how the charger can affect my batteries!! you know... electronics are simple mathematics!... then.. the quality comes.. that's why i am asking feedback on zippy cells...

P.S. Also my ICON A5 on which i used firstly these batteries, drain at max throttle 16.2A (at 22,2V) which is FAR beyond battery handling (at the low side of course!!).. Never got even warm! (just a bit...)... Isn't normal to wonder?

Originally Posted by jonesy40001

Hey Buddy.
Somewere real early in this thread, KK talks about "blowout" when refering to the onboard memory. I know when I first I got my board I had all the gains way up in an attempt to make it more stable. mine used to flip like you described even to the point where it jumped up and bit me on the arm. I can't remember exactly where the post is but its in the first 10 pages.... I think. lol.

Best of luck.

Pete.

Must have missed that step in tuning. Turn it up too high and your quad will spontaneously flip. Does someone have information as to the danger zone?

Dt700 motors, 10x4.5 props, h quad with sides of ~15.5", flying weight 1200 grams. Since I tore it down last night I'm going from memory, but ~110/65 for roll/pitch PI.

Originally Posted by tech69x

What kind of 450mm frame is it if its a dji style p in the 70 range on my ht450 p is 140

tech69 posted the above answer to this question; "Can anyone with a 450mm
frame & 1000kv motors share their PI settings please?"

I have a DJI F-450 with 1020kv motors and my P-Gain settings are A/E @ 25
and R @ 50. My Quad flies OK for the most part, but with a little drift L & R
and some bit of vertical "Yo-Yo" syndrome which needs some throttle stick
feathering to correct.

What could be the reason for such a big difference in settings for two similar setups?

Originally Posted by Papajeff

tech69 posted the above answer to this question; "Can anyone with a 450mm
frame & 1000kv motors share their PI settings please?"

I have a DJI F-450 with 1020kv motors and my P-Gain settings are A/E @ 25
and R @ 50. My Quad flies OK for the most part, but with a little drift L & R
and some bit of vertical "Yo-Yo" syndrome which needs some throttle stick
feathering to correct.

What could be the reason for such a big difference in settings for two similar setups?

Flashed ESCs let's you have high gains.

Originally Posted by TheFernMan

Flashed ESCs let's you have high gains.

Thank you for this info, but I am using Castle ICE LITE 50's which have been
"flashed" so to speak, with the Castle Link's new "multi-rotor" mode which I
have been told, is equal or better than the SimonK flash. It seems that I will
soon find out, right????