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Oct 20, 2012, 07:26 AM
Registered User
Akcopter's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sudsy
The other day when I told everyone I am 60 years old I thought I would be an "old timer" here but I see now I'm just a youngun here. I'm starting to think this is an Old Man thing! I am no where near 400.

Sudsy
To Add To That ..I Dont Know What To call Myself ...I am 21(You can see that from some of my videos) And Have been Flying since I was 14 And Have been coding and prototyping in the Rc world since..I was 18 so...looking at all the expertise and experience around think I have a lot of people to learn from...feels great .....
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Oct 20, 2012, 09:16 AM
8 bit is more fun
RC911's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsfakian
Hi to all, as a newbie and when adjusting my KK board i suspect my Deans connectors for power interruptions as i was connecting/disconnecting them! (maybe from sparks?) What connectors do you people think/use for the BEST SAFETY results??? (30A ESCs quad, power category 3-4s 2200mAh) THanks in advance!
I find that XT60 connectors are much safer and easier to connect/disconnect than Deans. I use both connector types and I've seen no sparks with the XT60s whereas the Deans will have sparks flying almost every time.

What problems are you seeing? Sparks are not giving my KK2.0 any problems.
Oct 20, 2012, 09:42 AM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
KK2 Rules and flies like butter.

Turnigy Talon Tricopter on 3S with LEDS. Space Taxi heading straight to Mother Earth to make it Funky!

Talon Space Taxi Straight to Mother Earth to Make it Funky (2 min 45 sec)


Play it loud if you love it funky!
H
Oct 20, 2012, 10:27 AM
Wannabe B-26 pilot!
Matt Halton's Avatar
Finally solved the mystery of the intermittent board! I checked all the soldering with a mag glass, but all is sound, so looked over the rest of the tri, and found the UBEC cable had frayed (had got trapped under one of the folding arms)
Hadn't noticed this, but it had taken the insulator right off!
Spliced more wire in to repair, thankfully it's all working again..

Made up another male/male lead, plugged one end on the board in the 5th port, after rudder, and the other end into AUX on my RX.
Anyone know how to activate the switch to work with A/L on a DX-7?

Went into the LCD menu, changed the A/L setting from 'Stick' to 'Aux'..Is there anything else I shoul;d do that I may have missed?

Would I be better off re flashing with the scolton FW as it seems to support A/L better than stock?

Battery is firmly mounted with HD velcro and strapping harnesses, and CG is spot on.


Looking to get outside with it on Monday, if the weather co-operates.

Thanks again guys

Matt
Oct 20, 2012, 10:44 AM
safer on the ground
teccer1234's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Halton
Finally solved the mystery of the intermittent board! I checked all the soldering with a mag glass, but all is sound, so looked over the rest of the tri, and found the UBEC cable had frayed (had got trapped under one of the folding arms)
Hadn't noticed this, but it had taken the insulator right off!
Spliced more wire in to repair, thankfully it's all working again..

Made up another male/male lead, plugged one end on the board in the 5th port, after rudder, and the other end into AUX on my RX.
Anyone know how to activate the switch to work with A/L on a DX-7?

Went into the LCD menu, changed the A/L setting from 'Stick' to 'Aux'..Is there anything else I shoul;d do that I may have missed?

Would I be better off re flashing with the scolton FW as it seems to support A/L better than stock?

Battery is firmly mounted with HD velcro and strapping harnesses, and CG is spot on.


Looking to get outside with it on Monday, if the weather co-operates.

Thanks again guys

Matt

just pm'd you
Oct 20, 2012, 10:53 AM
Wannabe B-26 pilot!
Matt Halton's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by teccer1234
just pm'd you
Thanks!

Matt
Oct 20, 2012, 01:23 PM
Registered User
Hi Sudsy,may I join your club I was 60 on thursday,I love these contraptions and all the tinkering with the boardsyours,Marty.
Oct 20, 2012, 01:30 PM
AVR Dude
Great. It was my birthday yesterday but this thread is about The new KK2 FC, info and Q&A in first post. Read it before asking a question.

Compredi.
Oct 20, 2012, 02:06 PM
Custom quad builder
tech69x's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveis
Great. It was my birthday yesterday but this thread is about The new KK2 FC, info and Q&A in first post. Read it before asking a question.

Compredi.
I think it's a little more that that now

Compredi
Oct 20, 2012, 02:33 PM
Registered User
I think theres a lot on this forum,that goes slightly A stray from the KK2,where only having a bit of banter or is that not allowed,it is a hobby at the end of the day,Marty.
Last edited by NEAGRON; Oct 20, 2012 at 04:50 PM.
Oct 20, 2012, 04:24 PM
Registered User
srepfler's Avatar

Position hold and altitude hold like behavior


Almost like position & altitude hold

SIX Hexcopter flying in the mist with position & altitude hold ( KK2 ) (11 min 9 sec)
Oct 20, 2012, 04:46 PM
we dont NEED roads!
AcroFPV's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by srepfler
Almost like position & altitude hold
Almost, but not quite.

"hold" means it wont ever change. What you have, is just a well tuned board and well built Hex.
Oct 20, 2012, 04:56 PM
Registered User
which is why he said "almost"

great job on tuning that hex, flies real stable.
Oct 20, 2012, 05:11 PM
Registered User
just crashed a quad so i'm building a Y6.

how you guys are mounting props on a Y6 (with KK2 of course). ?

3 top motors are spinning CW (top view) so i put pusher props with writing up.

3 bottom motors are spinning CCW (top view) so i should put normal props. Should the writing to be facing up (sky) or facing down (to the ground)?
Oct 20, 2012, 05:17 PM
Stop me before I build again!
Had a failure this morning, pretty sure it was not the FC, but not positive. About 6 feet off the ground, hovering, it just went crazy and motors 1 and 4 stopped dead. The unit did two complete flips before smacking the ground, thankfully right side up. Ended up with prop embedded in one of my ESCs. At that point the FC would not turn on, but after a rebuild of affected parts ( no swaps, just disconnect, fix, connect ) everything works.

Flew it for an hour this afternoon, so I'm pretty sure the problem is resolved.