I did a factory reset, but then it wouldn't re arm,rudder stick either full down/left and down/right...So, went into the menu and changed the arming sequence from stick so that the board starts when I plug the battery in.

Some questions:
1: Should the board show my battery state? It says 0.0 v.
2:Any ideas what is going on with my rudder?

Also noticed that when running the motors slowly(ish) there is no response in motor speeds when using the aileron stick, but elevator movement clearly shows a change in motor speed when moving back/forward.

Hoping against hope someone can shed light on why my aileron signal doesn't work, and give me some more ideas. Your input has been greatly appreciated so far. I have checked the pins too for the aileron on the board, and they are not bent, and the plug on the lead is a good fit.

I really don't want to have to buy a board again (it would be the 4th if I do) There must be an answer to this?

Thanks guys

Matt

Do I need to set up a mix with aileron and elevator? Could that be the problem? Just wondering...

Matt

Originally Posted by Matt Halton

I did a factory reset, but then it wouldn't re arm,rudder stick either full down/left and down/right...So, went into the menu and changed the arming sequence from stick so that the board starts when I plug the battery in.

Some questions:
1: Should the board show my battery state? It says 0.0 v.
2:Any ideas what is going on with my rudder?

Also noticed that when running the motors slowly(ish) there is no response in motor speeds when using the aileron stick, but elevator movement clearly shows a change in motor speed when moving back/forward.

Hoping against hope someone can shed light on why my aileron signal doesn't work, and give me some more ideas. Your input has been greatly appreciated so far. I have checked the pins too for the aileron on the board, and they are not bent, and the plug on the lead is a good fit.

I really don't want to have to buy a board again (it would be the 4th if I do) There must be an answer to this?

Thanks guys

Matt

1. The volt reading on lcd is ok, unless you have soldered a pin on the Board for voltage readout.

2. Q - have you setup your board with the right mode/motorlayout ?
Q - have you adjustet the rx- signals to only do from -100_0_100 on all ch, but throttel ?
On my KK2 board's i only need to move the rudder stick aprox. 2/3 of the total travel.

Kai

Stop where you are 2 and change it back for Stick arming NOW
You are making this more complex then it is. If you have it so the board arms when power is applied, its not a matter if it well, it more so when it well jump up and chop something up...arms,fingers...face....

that auto arm is more for airplanes that are powering servos, not motors with blades.

reset again make a new model and start from scratch. Make sure you have the sub trims at 0 and that the Thr tim centre or all the ways down on your main trim. Do you only get half of a start up beeping from your ESC's? thats telling you that the throttle is to high. Its a safe feature of most esc's. but normally if you bind to your RX with the thr trim in the center it well be fine.

If you rudd is not moving its more then likely in wrong chan on your board. recheck it all again. I assume your using a 6ch rx? rudd is the 5th from the left. No you dont need to do any mixing to get this kk2 to fly.
I know my friend had to plug his rudd into the 4th pins on his tri. But that was with the KK1 or KK2

I would start with a new model with everything at zero, reboot the board and start over...
You need to tap the to the board from your Power dis board to get the V reading of the batt.
Check out all of dhdsracer videos on this board

KK2 Voltage Alarm Setup (7 min 21 sec)

deleted! double post

A factory reset will change to quadcopter so you need to change layout back to tricopter.

Originally Posted by zokizo

yes but what happens if i lower P gain

i make pirouette and when i release rudder stick quad goes about 40 degrees more left or right depends where i move rudder
does not stop immediately

Did you actually read the Tuning guide in post 1 of the thread

"Yaw P-tuning

Increase Yaw P-gain by 10 (5 or less for a small aircraft) at a time, and test your aircraft response by hovering and move the Yaw control stick until it have

yawed about a quarter of a circle, and then center it.

As you increase the gain you will notice:

1: The aircraft start and stops faster.
2: The aircraft overshoots less.
2: The aircraft may start to climb or descend.

When the aircraft has a good response, has a minimum of overshoot and does not climb or descend, P-gain is good.
"

sounds like your issue exactly.

A factory reset will change to quadcopter so you need to change layout back to tricopter.

Yep,did that

1. The volt reading on lcd is ok, unless you have soldered a pin on the Board for voltage readout.

2. Q - have you setup your board with the right mode/motorlayout ? Yes
Q - have you adjustet the rx- signals to only do from -100_0_100 on all ch, but throttel ? Yes
On my KK2 board's i only need to move the rudder stick aprox. 2/3 of the total travel.All working now, I had unplugged a lead from the UBEC, then re plugged back in the wrong way

So, new model memory opened on my FC9, changed RX (35 meg band) Set everything to zero, except throttle.
Reconnected, board now arms with elevator stick back, rudder stick full right deflection, so that's good.

Stop where you are 2 and change it back for Stick arming NOW
You are making this more complex then it is. If you have it so the board arms when power is applied, its not a matter if it well, it more so when it well jump up and chop something up...arms,fingers...face....

that auto arm is more for airplanes that are powering servos, not motors with blades.

reset again make a new model and start from scratch. Make sure you have the sub trims at 0 and that the Thr tim centre or all the ways down on your main trim. Do you only get half of a start up beeping from your ESC's? thats telling you that the throttle is to high. Its a safe feature of most esc's. but normally if you bind to your RX with the thr trim in the center it well be fine.

If you rudd is not moving its more then likely in wrong chan on your board. recheck it all again. I assume your using a 6ch rx? rudd is the 5th from the left. No you dont need to do any mixing to get this kk2 to fly.
I know my friend had to plug his rudd into the 4th pins on his tri. But that was with the KK1 or KK2

I would start with a new model with everything at zero, reboot the board and start over...
You need to tap the to the board from your Power dis board to get the V reading of the batt.

Useful advice too, and thankyou again, done everything you said, but the ail signal error persists...

Despite changing TX and RX from 2.4 to FM, still saying no ail signal input...that's 2 different receivers, same problem, otherwise the board works beautifully.

Thanks for your comments guys, but do you think I need to throw the towel in on this board and ask for warranty rights from HK for a replacement, or should I try something else?

Thanks again

Matt

Matt your rudder servo will not move unless the motors are running, it also needs to be powered, which it should get from Motor 2 or 3 ESC, unless you disconnected the red wire.

ESC 1 only powers the board not the other M2 to M8 connectors.

As for your Aileron issue, I would check the solder on the board pins and the traces from those pins, most likely it is something wrong with the inside signal pin, earth and power will not matter.
On the pic of board it looks like very short track from the Aileron channel to small hole to take signal to the other side of the board, could be that is not connected through the board.
You would need to lift the LCD to do a continuity check.

Do you have your wires connected as standard AETR, that is the way the board is wired, 5th connector for Aux to switch on/off Auto Level.

Double check your male to male connectors, that you have same colour wire going to signal pin at Rx and board end, I messed up once and had one round the wrong way and could not understand what was up as it had being working great before i took wires off to fix something.

I fly mine on a Tricopter and it works great.

Originally Posted by Matt Halton

Yep,did that


So, new model memory opened on my FC9, changed RX (35 meg band) Set everything to zero, except throttle.
Reconnected, board now arms with elevator stick back, rudder stick full right deflection, so that's good.



Useful advice too, and thankyou again, done everything you said, but the ail signal error persists...

Despite changing TX and RX from 2.4 to FM, still saying no ail signal input...that's 2 different receivers, same problem, otherwise the board works beautifully.

Thanks for your comments guys, but do you think I need to throw the towel in on this board and ask for warranty rights from HK for a replacement, or should I try something else?

Thanks again

Matt

Hi Matt, try plugging a servo into the aileron port of the receiver, that will isolate the problem to the board. If that is ok then look in the receiver calibration area and confirm that sub trim changes change the 0 setting up and down, this will indicate ppm from radio to CPU. If that is all ok then you may have a code problem, if you can reflashto v1.2. Also check there are not any dual rates active on the tx, that can confuse things. If all that fails then looks like a board problem.

Good luck

Originally Posted by Del-Dredd

Matt your rudder servo will not move unless the motors are running, it also needs to be powered, which it should get from Motor 2 or 3 ESC, unless you disconnected the red wire. Don't know if this is another error, but my rudder servo is reacting to stick input even in SAFE mode.

ESC 1 only powers the board not the other M2 to M8 connectors.

As for your Aileron issue, I would check the solder on the board pins and the traces from those pins, most likely it is something wrong with the inside signal pin, earth and power will not matter.
On the pic of board it looks like very short track from the Aileron channel to small hole to take signal to the other side of the board, could be that is not connected through the board.
You would need to lift the LCD to do a continuity check. Thanks, I'll try that in the morning, as I'm getting tired now, worth a look!

Do you have your wires connected as standard AETR, that is the way the board is wired, 5th connector for Aux to switch on/off Auto Level. No wire connected to AUX yet (need to solder one up) Yes, on my 35 mHz set RX it is the std. AETR.

Double check your male to male connectors, that you have same colour wire going to signal pin at Rx and board end, I messed up once and had one round the wrong way and could not understand what was up as it had being working great before i took wires off to fix something. Will do that too!

I fly mine on a Tricopter and it works great.

Hi Matt, try plugging a servo into the aileron port of the receiver, that will isolate the problem to the board. If that is ok then look in the receiver calibration area and confirm that sub trim changes change the 0 setting up and down, this will indicate ppm from radio to CPU. If that is all ok then you may have a code problem, if you can reflashto v1.2. Also check there are not any dual rates active on the tx, that can confuse things. If all that fails then looks like a board problem.

Thanks twang, I tried a seperate servo into the aileron port of the RX and it's working fine,receiver calibration checks out ok too. HK have more in stock, so I just ordered another in case they wind up on BK again..Might try reflash too, I have the USB flashing tool etc.No D/R were found to be active either.

Always been a multiwii type, but I sure love this KK board. Easy to set up and very smooth. Bought three more of the boards when HK got them in and got them today. Very happy with these boards. Makes life simpler.

Hey everyone, I have been reading through this thread as much as possible.. But haven't got through it all 286pgs it's alot!! I have watched all the videos I could find.. And this looks like a great board.. I have a KK2 and a 3.0 that I'm going to be using on different frames.. Both on H style quads... I plan on sticking with the stock 1.2 firmware for the KK2.. as i saw there is a modified version of it out there....

Any suggestions for a newb on this board? Any bad tendencies or something that does work as well as it should?? The frame I'm going to be using is made from scratch.. So is there anything in the design that I should do maximize the KK2 performance?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Ayeager

So is there anything in the design that I should do maximize the KK2 performance?

Nothing really. Upgrade the firmware, slap it on the chosen multi-rotor frame, and let her rip.

I have mine on a tricopter. Although the auto-level is not as responsive as people here would like, it works and performs well on the tricopter.

FPV flying is so much easier with this board compared to the standard HobbyKing KK boards.

So i finally got my AVR programmer today and got to update to 1.2 from 1.0. Meh... no biggy. I didn't notice any difference in the flight of my tricopter. I played with the auto-level alittle, but still could not get it to work to my liking.

So after all this reading about the Acc MOD version, and then reading over Shane Coltons blog ( http://scolton.blogspot.com/2012/08/...54705593881085 ) I figured why not... and loaded it up on my KK2.

I just copied his P/I & Autolevel settings from his blog, and WOW ITS FREAKING AMAZING!!! Auto Level that actually AUTO-LEVELS!! Its unreal, almost like playing a video game now. I did experience the issue with my gyro getting stuck and my tricopter wanting to flip over. But this was after an "Emergency Landing" which resulted in some broken landing gear. A quick power cycle on the KK2 solved the issue right away, and i havent had it since.

I just want to thank Shane for bringing the KK2 board to life! Its a whole new machine now