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Jun 05, 2012, 04:22 PM
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lvmosher's Avatar
Discussion

New Steam plant


Mostly I've been lurking along...although I did post once or twice in the scale forum.
I did live steam trains , gauge 1 for a number of years but all electric now. Bought a Douglas Greg from Loyalhanna and was originally going to put it on live steam.

Anyway.... Maccsteam 3 1/2" boiler with a small mod to the sight glass, TV1RABB built from the kit, and PM research fittings. I know most use copper tube but I kinda like the look of the pipe etc. May have to build a test hull since I'm not happy with the runout on the shaft. My dial indicator shows it at 0.004 when it's running. Any ideas on that would be welcome.

I do like the radiant glow in the burner though.
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Jun 05, 2012, 04:58 PM
P31
P31
Registered User
Very nice pipe work, the lay out is neat and clean. Very nice looking plant.
Gary
Jun 05, 2012, 05:13 PM
Registered User
onfinal32's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by pamela31
Very nice pipe work, the lay out is neat and clean. Very nice looking plant.
Gary
I agree with Gary.I like the pipe fittings. Ronnie.
Jun 05, 2012, 06:13 PM
I SEE NO SHIPS
dunc2504's Avatar
Hi.
Is the run out on the shaft , or on the coupler fitting ?
I would not expect much on the shaft unless it is bent.
Have you put any thinking into how you are going to controll the speed or direction of the engine , Ie regulator , linkage servo ,?
Nice plant by the way .
DUNC2504
Jun 05, 2012, 06:20 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
Looks super cool!
Jun 06, 2012, 12:19 AM
Just call me "Mo"
mogogear's Avatar
Looks like your choices all worked just fine..We sure hope a hull is in your future soon so you can tackle the fun puzzles it will bring to you..Duncan alluded to one of the first two- a servo operated control for the forward / reverse and one also for throttle control.

Down through the rabbit hole you will go...come on in the water is grand!
Jun 06, 2012, 01:11 AM
Registered User
Bernhard BB's Avatar
Super....
Jun 06, 2012, 07:19 AM
Registered User
lvmosher's Avatar
Thanks guys
Duncan.... checked the run-out at the shaft not the coupling. I emailed Graham, waiting to see what he has to say.

The servo part will be easy, I have plenty of RC experience in RCing stuff. Nice thing about boats...lots of room in the hull
Jun 06, 2012, 11:32 AM
Registered User
lvmosher's Avatar
Decided to do a little test. I hooked up a 12v Pittman motor using a dogbone style universal and added a 13 ohm load to the motor so it ran as a generator. The run-out at the motor shaft was essential 0.0" but still pretty much 0.004" on the steam engine shaft. It ran really well for 30 minutes, at 20 psig, at what I think might be a typical prop speed.... so perhaps I'll have to live with it. I do need a bigger spit tank though as it stated spitting out the vent pipe at 25minutes.


How do you guys trim your FG hulls down to the shear line?...gotta do that on the Greg next as I think I'll continue with the original plan for now.
Jun 06, 2012, 11:50 AM
Just call me "Mo"
mogogear's Avatar
Lagging the steam line will reduce the amount of water you are transporting to the engine. that may reduce the amount you are collecting...and keep it in steam form longer..
Jun 06, 2012, 01:11 PM
Registered User
ooyah's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by lvmosher
Decided to do a little test. I hooked up a 12v Pittman motor using a dogbone style universal and added a 13 ohm load to the motor so it ran as a generator. The run-out at the motor shaft was essential 0.0" but still pretty much 0.004" on the steam engine shaft. It ran really well for 30 minutes, at 20 psig, at what I think might be a typical prop speed.... so perhaps I'll have to live with it. I do need a bigger spit tank though as it stated spitting out the vent pipe at 25minutes.
As Duncan says the shaft could be bent, or as this is the B.B. engine with the 2- bearings on the outside of the crank web could one of the bearings , especially the outside one be out of line.
\How about slackening of the bearing and see if it's out of line and pulling to one side, if this is the case it will put a strain on the crank web.
It's most unusual for 2- blocks with Ball bearing races fitted to have run out.

Just a thought.
George.
Jun 06, 2012, 03:34 PM
Registered User
lvmosher's Avatar
Lagging is in the plans, I guess I should try lagging before making a bigger spit tank.

George, I agree... if I don't here back from Graham soon I'll take the engine apart to see what I can discover.
Jun 06, 2012, 03:50 PM
Registered User
ooyah's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by lvmosher
Lagging is in the plans, I guess I should try lagging before making a bigger spit tank.

George, I agree... if I don't here back from Graham soon I'll take the engine apart to see what I can discover.
Hi,
I am not too familiar with the construction of the TVR engine, is the crank shaft machined from the solid or is it fabricated ?
If it's fabricated how are the webs fixed to the main shaft ?

I know that Cheddar when in business used to fabricate the shafts and pinned the web thro" to the shaft with grub screws.

If this is the case with your engine I would be reluctant to run it too much until you sort out the problem of the run out.
George.
Jun 06, 2012, 03:52 PM
Just call me "Mo"
mogogear's Avatar
George

The cranks are single piece machined.......
Jun 06, 2012, 04:09 PM
Registered User
ooyah's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by mogogear
George

The cranks are single piece machined.......
Just had a look on their web site as I thought that there would be a central support but they over come this by putting two bearings at ether end of the shaft.

Thanks for the info.
George.
Last edited by ooyah; Jun 06, 2012 at 04:19 PM.


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