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May 19, 2012, 11:21 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
Build Log

BluFO Parkflyer Build Log

I posted this design in my blog back in January. I'm finally getting around to documenting the build.

Motors I have used:
Emax CF-2812 (1600 Kv) with an APC 7x5 E
BPHobbies BL-2208/17 (1100 Kv) with a GWS EP-8060 prop

Other parts needed:
18 amp ESC
1000 to 1300 mAh 3S lipo
2 x 9gram Servos
5mm x 0.6mm x 1meter (or 5mm x 1mm x 1meter for greater strength) Carbon Fiber strip

Suggested starting CG should be 12.20" back from the nose.
Suggested starting throws:
Aileron 0.4" up & down (0.8" total) 30% expo
Elevator 0.55" up & down (1.1" total) 20% expo

Keywords: "Blu-F-O" "Blu F O" "BlueFO"

First, I'll repost the plans.

Note: I updated updated the tab and slot CNC pdf at 1:16 pm on May 26 2013.

Update: Loaded Tiled version of the Parts Patterns

Update: Loaded Zip file containing Spektrum DX8 model file. Note: I have Elevator and Aileron rates on the Aileron rate switch.
Last edited by MetroGTi; Aug 19, 2013 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Added motor and other parts info, added keywords to help search find thread, added NACA intake template, added updated tab and slot parts layout
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May 19, 2012, 11:23 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
Here's the pile of cut out the parts.

A couple of tips here:

You may not want to cut out the prop slot in part B until you have selected your motor and prop adapter.

My club decided to do a group build of this plane so I made a set of templates from 0.090" thick styrene. With the templates I can cut out a set of parts in about a half an hour. The orange squares on the templates are sandpaper to help keep the templates from slipping.
May 19, 2012, 11:25 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
I reinforced the wing using a pair of spars made from 5.0mm x 0.6mm carbon strip. A 1 meter (39") length is long enough to make both spars.

I like to cut the CF strip to length with a pair of side-cutters.

After cutting I clean up the ends with sandpaper. I also use the sandpaper to rough up the surface of the CF so the glue will adhere better.
May 19, 2012, 11:27 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
To glue the spars in, I first line up the wing panels B & C with the CF strip in-between on a flat surface. I then use several small pieces of clear tape to create a "hinge" between the two wing sections. Then I fold the hinge back and apply foam safe CA to the wing panels and the CF strip and return the wing to the flat surface and apply some CA activator. I repeat the process to attach wing panel A to B.
May 19, 2012, 11:28 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
The elevons (part D) have a 45 degree bevel on the leading edge to allow for control surface movement.
To hinge the elevons, I position the trailing edge of the wing over the edge of my work surface and position the elevon at full down deflection then use a couple of small pieces of clear tape to hold the elevon in place at the correct spacing. I then move the wing and elevon onto the flat work surface and apply blenderm hinge tape to complete the hinge.
May 19, 2012, 11:29 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
With the wing panel complete I mark the top of the panel for the vertical fins and the fuselage sides and formers. I use straight pins to transfer the end points of the top markings to the bottom of the wing panel, then mark up the bottom of the panel. This helps keep the bottom and top fins and fuselage in alignment.
May 19, 2012, 11:31 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
I cut the notches in the lower fins (part R) to fit the servos I have selected, then use the fins to help mark where the servos will be mounted.

I use a tool called a "pounce wheel" to poke holes through the "skin" of the FFF to help the glue penetrate into the foam for a stronger joint. I do this in any joint where I have not removed the "skin" from the joint area.

After attaching the servos to the wing panel using hot glue, I use blenderm tape to secure the wires to the bottom of the wing panel.

Next, I glue on the lower fins. This can be done with foam safe CA or hot glue if you work quickly. I use some right angle blocks to be sure the fins are perpendicular to the wing.
May 19, 2012, 11:34 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
To aid in attaching the fuselage sides, (especially when using hot glue) I made a foam jig that matches the inside contour of the fuselage. There are several spacers on the bottom of the jig to help prevent the jig from being accidentally glued to the model. The jig is held in place using straight pins.
May 19, 2012, 11:36 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
I pre-curved the lower fuselage sides (part P) to make them easier to glue in place. I also cut small clearance notches for the servo wires in the fuselage sides. After gluing the fuselage side to the wing panel (using right angle blocks to keep them perpendicular) I remove the jig and install the formers (parts O & N) sanding them to fit as necessary.
May 19, 2012, 11:38 PM
Mexia Izonfia
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I then use a sanding stick to true up the bottom edges of the fuselage sides so that the fuselage bottom has maximum gluing surface. I pre-curve the fuselage bottom (part Q) for best fit. Notice the bevel at the nose that allows the bottom to fit properly. I also remove the "skin from the inside of the fuse bottom so the glue will adhere better. Weights can be helpful when gluing the bottom in place.
May 19, 2012, 11:40 PM
Mexia Izonfia
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I flip the wing panel over and use the jig to form and attach the top fuselage sides (part F) to the wing panel.

Next I glue in the top nose former (part E).

A sanding stick is again used to true up the edges of the top fuse sides. The top of the fuse nose (part G) is then per formed, fitted and has the inside skin removed before gluing it in place.

I cut an opening at the rear of the fuselage (being careful not to cut the servo wires) to provide access to the servo wires. Eventually the speed controller will fit into this area as well.
May 19, 2012, 11:42 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
The hatch (part J) and the hatch "ribs" (part L) are pre-formed and the inside skin is removed from part J. I draw guide lines on the bottom of part J to insure that the ribs are glued far enough in for the hatch to fit properly. The hatch "tongue" (part K) is then glued between the ribs (trimming the width first if necessary). Check the fit of the hatch and sand where necessary to get the hatch to fit properly.
May 19, 2012, 11:44 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
I use a steel washer and a rare earth magnet to hold the hatch on. I glue the washer to the hatch and the magnet to part I. I like to add a tab to the hatch to make it easier to open. The tab is made from piece of tape.

With the magnet holding part I to the hatch, I fit the hatch to the fuselage and mark where part I needs to be glued to the fuselage sides. Separate the hatch and part I and glue part I to the fuselage. Reinstall the hatch and mark the fuselage where the hatch ends. Remove the hatch and glue the last piece of the fuselage (part H) in place.
May 19, 2012, 11:46 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
The upper vertical fins are glued in place with the aid of right angel blocks.

The tip fins are marked, then glued in place with the aid of right angle blocks.
May 19, 2012, 11:47 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
I added a NACA intake to the hatch to help with battery and ESC cooling.

I cut a 1" square hole in the bottom of the fuselage to allow the cooling air to escape. I used 1mm depron to create a nice looking "vent". I will also be routing the motor wires through this vent.

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