Note to self - RC Groups
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May 18, 2012, 05:05 PM
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Note to self

Note to self. Stop using Welders on planes without testing it out first. It's not good when you melt the wing in half!
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May 18, 2012, 07:04 PM
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Glues For your Foamies

Don't remember where I found this but I copied it and saved it to disk so I wouldn't make the same mistake you did.... again.

Glues for your Foamies kits vary greatly and there is more than one type of glue that is needed to build your foamie. But mostly, it’s the modeler’s preference on what type of glue they use and are comfortable with. Here is a list of foam compatible glues:

• Bob Smith Industries (BSI) Orderless CA or Cyanoacrylate and Foam Safe Kicker- Works great, to be used with kicker, dries instantly. In case you happen to break something, it's great for field repairs. Usually dries clear, and makes for a great way to keep the plane clean.

• Epoxy- 5-minute works, but 15-30 works better. Generally a bit messy, and sometimes dries with a green-ish color. Great for mounting the motor or other high stress sections on the aircraft, such as the wing spar. If you get sloppy, it will clean up with Denatured Alcohol.

• Gorilla Glue Fast Cure (polyurethane)- Used in small amounts, keeps weight down. Using a little bit of water allows the glue to dry faster. Works great for mounting firewalls, and gluing the edges of foam together (especially on broken parts). Over time, it turns yellow in color, which makes the plane look a bit messy.

• PL Turbo (polyurethane)- Sets in about 3-5 minutes and dries in about 1-2 hours depending on the amount of moisture in the air. Works great for mounting firewalls, and gluing the edges of foam together (especially on broken parts).

• Gorilla Pen (polyurethane)- This is another quick setting glue, much like the PL Turbo but takes about 1 hour and it's less expensive. Both of these are sold in small tubes and are referred to as "Pen Glues"

• PVA (PolyVinyl Acetate)- Sometimes referred to as crafts glue, wood glue, white glue or carpenter’s glue. This glue dries clear, stays flexible and takes hours to dry. Only to be used in non-structural parts, such as down the fuselage joint. Glue can separate from the smooth surface of the foam easily; make sure you use enough so that it creates a large fillet (it will shrink up as it dries).

• Elmer’s Craft glue (PVA)- This type of glue works fine, but takes hours to dry, usually overnight. Dries clear, making final product very clean. Glue can break easily so use in large amounts.

• Hot Glue- Generally is messy, but can dry clear, and makes a nice flexible bond, which holds great. Be careful to not use high temperature hot glue! Don’t use in areas that the temperature regularly gets above 80º Fahrenheit (or about 28º Celsius).

• Welders Glue- This is a contact cement style glue to be is used on EPP. It has it’s applications but because of the construction style of our kits, we do not recommend using it on our Depron foamies. It will attack the Depron!

Notes: First off, prior to any gluing, make sure that you wipe off the smooth surface of Depron with alcohol to remove any oils on the surface. Never glue the leading and trailing edge of the wing to the fuse. Use a small amount of glue about 1" in from the leading and trailing edges, this will allow the fuselage to flex, preventing hard points and cracks to start at the joint.
May 18, 2012, 08:59 PM
super_dork's Avatar
Wow! Thanks for the info. Certainly will keep this in mind. This was the second time I did this.

Here's what I ended up with after my mishap. I ended up just cutting the whole plane up and ripping all the electronic out. Maybe I'll make a flying wing.

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