Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 06:59 AM
mtflyr is offline
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I use to just L bend into a hole I'd put in the horn but since we're talking micros here, I now just use a small drop of 5 min epoxy or even CA with a kicker once I'm sure I'm at neutral everywhere.

If you mess up or have to change them you'll need to get a real thin razor to do so. I just break apart used disposable twins. The blades although not good enough for a shave are great for cutting foam, paper or other things since they are super thin you can cut a point on them and they are also flexable. Plus I'm recycling.

Pete
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 06:25 PM
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Thanks Pete, how simple --glue it to the horn! I'm going to try hot glue.

Do you do the elevator and rudder with bead wire and tube, too, or pushrods?
Old Oct 14, 2012, 10:05 PM
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Push rods. Too lazy to do pull pull lines

Pete
Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:19 AM
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Thanks again!

I tried out the glued aileron horn and bead wire cable in another plane today -- an old Cox P-47 that I resurrected from bits and pieces. Added the ailerons, since it was RET before, and a new 10 gram brushless and 400 mah 2s batt, and WoW. Total transformation. Practically unflyable before, but now I would say it is the best flying plane I own!

Re-did all of the Nieuport laser prints, and glued them to real Depron this time. Added 1.2 mm CF tubes in LE under tissue this time. Put fuselage together.
Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:09 PM
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Tissue "Grades"


Quote:
Originally Posted by vtdiy View Post
Re-did all of the Nieuport laser prints, ...
To reiterate some points about tissue differences:

I have a big selection of various tissue packs that I've accumulated trying to find the one that prints best. By "best" I mean one that is bright white, doesn't have holes, and brings out the best quality of the laser toner while toughly bonding it to the tissue. An unsuitable tissue is one that's too pourous, letting too much toner go through to the carrier paper (as shown in the attachment). The density of the various tissues is obvious when holding them up to a light source.

My experience is that it's best to print on the dull side of wrapping tissue I got from CVS Pharmacy. Unfortunately it's only sold around the holidays, and I ran out this year (but the holidays start earlier every year, so I assume it will be restocked soon). I found a suitable substitute at Michaels' craft store in their "Celebrate It" tissue.

Hope this saves you some searching time.

Gene
Old Oct 15, 2012, 03:47 PM
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printing on esaki tissue, the shiny side gave my a grey color very bright, like the b17 in the aluminum skin, while the dull side gave me a more realistic 'matte' finish.
epson inkjet ink is somewhat waterproof (i guess it yould be water resistant then huh?)
i have not tested it long term, only wet and and rubbed and no ink smudging or runnning.
Old Oct 15, 2012, 09:14 PM
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Thank you Gene for the tissue information.
Old Oct 17, 2012, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy01 View Post
You may want to increase the rudder on some of these WWI builds - 15% is what Pete likes.
Why do we do this?

Do all models of scale a/c need this?

I remember looking at plans for scale models in MAN years ago ... especially for Free-flight and R/C ... and seeing that they would give TWO outlines for the tail, one was "scale" and the other was the size built for the model.

I've always assumed that it was for increased stability and perhaps to create a stronger effect for the control surface, but I have never known for certain.
Old Oct 28, 2012, 11:14 AM
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Has anybody ever posted a pattern for the airfoil section of a wing baking jig?

I just need the pattern for the airfoil ... building the rest of the jig looks pretty easy.

I thought I remembered copying one and printing it out some time ago ... but just can't find it.
Old Dec 12, 2013, 03:14 PM
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Followed this over from http://www.papermodelers.com/ I've been wanting to do this for years! Thanks for all the lovely step by step photos and instructions. My new favorite thread!
Last edited by Altbob; Oct 24, 2016 at 01:14 PM.
Old Dec 12, 2013, 06:04 PM
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Followed this over from Papermodelers.com
Love that site!

Gene K
Last edited by speedy01; Oct 23, 2016 at 08:53 AM.
Old Apr 07, 2016, 04:32 PM
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I feel a bit guilty as I intended to make some Depron parts for you guys ....Guess I'll have to let the guilt build until I can take it no more!!!
Are we there yet, Jon?

Gene K
Old Oct 22, 2016, 09:07 PM
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Read through this whole site. I was referred here by another Groups builder. Learned a lot. I need a laser printer . The video instructions are great. Thanks Speedy and vtdiy and others.
**Neons** Bob
Old Oct 23, 2016, 09:21 AM
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[QUOTE=**neons**;36022362] I need a laser printer. /QUOTE]

Bob,

I've gone through a couple, and have now settled on this Brother HL-3170CDW because it has a straight through feed feature, among other things.

Name: 51-mfF0%2BWeL._SL1000_.jpg
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From Amazon Prime it's $200 including two day shipping.

Gene
P.S. I've enjoyed your eclectic modelling through the years ... from ultra micro to ultra large.
Old Oct 24, 2016, 08:42 AM
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Gene, are you still using the Duro brand spray stickum to put the tissue down on the carrier sheet?


EDIT: Oops, re-reading back a few pages, I see I asked something similar a few years ago and see you switched to Loctite.

So is Loctite spray the one of choice, now?
Last edited by vtdiy; Oct 24, 2016 at 10:01 AM.


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