Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 12:17 AM
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If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Originally Posted by brendanpekin View Post
Well bit of a first dry fit happening at the moment, front cap screws for wing mount will not seat completely into the rebate allowed for them and the front join of the two wing halves does not quite meet with the seam in the fuslage as you might expect, although measuring wing tip to tail tip seems close within a mm or two. Do not have the wing brace in yet as it is tight, have tried a little light wet n dry 360 grit but not quite there yet. Cup of tea time....
I would consider easing the inside of the tight hole, not the outside of the joiner. In my case, the joiner is the same size both ends, and if one were to make one end smaller than the other, it would only ever go in one way.

Michael
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 01:30 AM
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a slow start to a riot...
looking down the fuslage the top seam looks a little out, no issue, looks poor though. cap screw heads will need to be ground down though, will try this before attacking the wing rebate, hopefully won't have to touch the wing
More thoughts, like the idea of the mini graphite mounting servos in the tail leaving space up front for batt rx esc etc with a 2200 3s and servos side by side not a lot of room, but this plane doesn't have that option, not from the factory at least. so offset servo tray won't be used, takes up too much space. um flap threads are not installed not sure why not. I guess dependant on servo used ok more soon
Old Jul 20, 2012, 02:15 AM
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wing joiner


my joiner varies pretty consistantly from 11.9mm to 12.3, narrower across the top and bottom seem, I have barely sanded it, just a couple of imperfections along the seam. It will start similarly into either wing but gets overly tight, a very gentle opening of the wing holes as you said then perhaps a little dry graphite powder, corn flour even to help it in. A little gentle finessing required, have to pack up for the night now though. BP
Old Jul 20, 2012, 02:24 AM
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I'm loving your updates mate, keep em coming
Old Jul 20, 2012, 03:31 AM
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Trex 700, Gaui X5, 450DFC
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I hope to someday buy one of these and really appreciate the pictures, sharing and info from those who have one. Perhaps this could evolve into a sharing build log ;-)
Old Jul 22, 2012, 08:33 PM
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more thoughts


You are so right SoarWest, rc groups is a great resource esp when there are no instructions in the box! oh great blog too ss very enjoyable might have to pick your brain one day re your AMR
Spent last night looking over another build of the mini graphite (courtesy rc groups) by Cones, nice work! Drooling over all that lurvely carbon twill cloth.
Unfortunately the riot's small amount of what I believe to be unidirectional tape will probably be required to be taken out to allow room for the tail servos. the larger box is the m-g cut out but I hope to keep it as small as possible ie the inner box. Along side is my e-hawk. The servo tray supplied wont suit. work to start soon I hope. pick up spinner and a motor option wed. Motor weights are possibly 140g up to 200g for heavier build? Bit unsure about this? BP
Old Jul 23, 2012, 03:13 AM
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Looks very interesting model indeed.

In general fitting an outrunner is no problem if the motor diameter fits the nose. It is easy to cut a slot for the wires and cover it with a fiberglass bubble. I have made the bubble simply by pressing a handle of a butcher knife (has perfect shape) into wax of the outdoor candle to make the mould.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/b12/kuvat/kopterit/vmax1.JPG
Old Jul 23, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Trex 700, Gaui X5, 450DFC
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A question about having that bubble on the outside of your fuse like that. Does it interfere with the folding prop as it spins up and down? It would seem that the prop would hit it as it makes it's initial rotation.

I agree using and Outrunner would be more cost effective as they are significantly less money and weight for a given performance level. Then again Inrunners are catching up but I don't think can ever match outrunners given the more difficult mfg that is required.
Old Jul 23, 2012, 03:55 PM
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A question about having that bubble on the outside of your fuse like that. Does it interfere with the folding prop as it spins up and down? It would seem that the prop would hit it as it makes it's initial rotation.
No problem whatsoever. The blades fold out as soon as the prop starts to rotate and the pitch clears out the leading edge of the prop completely. The bubble is only few mm's anyway.

In the photo the bubble is on with a piece of tape for demonstration only on the mock up stage. It was epoxied/laminated and painted later.
Old Jul 23, 2012, 03:58 PM
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Another question, inside the fuse just behind the motor, do you install any kinds of removable firewall to keep wires, weights or anything from shifting into the spinning motor housing and quickly becoming worn away?
Old Jul 24, 2012, 07:47 AM
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That depends on the model. In this particular V-max, Hawk F5B, Wilco etc. there is a firewall. It is semi-removable and on with few spots of hot melt glue. For material use what you like: Plywood, plywood/firberglass, fiberglass sheet or whatever you have at hand. Cut ventilation holes to your liking.
Old Jul 27, 2012, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by B12 View Post
Looks very interesting model indeed.

In general fitting an outrunner is no problem if the motor diameter fits the nose. It is easy to cut a slot for the wires and cover it with a fiberglass bubble. I have made the bubble simply by pressing a handle of a butcher knife (has perfect shape) into wax of the outdoor candle to make the mould.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/b12/kuvat/kopterit/vmax1.JPG
nice tip b12, to fit any of my cheap outrunners your mod would probably be necessary. with a tapered nose of the hyperion 3014 3020 3025 you might get away with no modification but those motors are so expensive $130-160
I have plonked an arc 3655 2.5 1150 kv inrunner in so no spinning can to worry about, but at 240 grams things are a bit heavy and cg issues may arise.
yes motor mount is in, thought I better get on with it. I laminated some 3mm ply with carbon fibre on both sides and located it at the cut off edge of the nose. Am a bit concerned with the thrust line, does it need more right and down? like to here your thoughts on this Subsonic as you have the plane. I guess if there are thrust issues I will trim it for launch or have to re do the mount. Might be able to shim it a little. Anyway 3s gave me nearly 400watts and 4s close to 600 static using an 11x6.(cheap hk carbon prop, and yes that blue esc is a 60amp $15 hk job too) I'll start there and get to over propping later if indeed this motor balances out. sorry about the rubbish photos. well that's it for now, hopefully some flying this weekend. BP

Any chance yours has come down off the shelf Subsonic?
Old Jul 27, 2012, 11:02 AM
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For budget glider combos I have found this motor very good :http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8486

By motor calculators it is by far the most powerful of the cheap chinese outrunners. With 3s lipo it spins Cam Carbon 13x11 with about 60 amps. 14x10 is so and so at about 70A. My 2 meter 1600g Orion V3 warmliner climbs vertical at +20m/s and the 1,7m 1400g V-max eco pretty much faster. With 13x11 it is good motor for fast(ish) gliders below 2000g.
Old Jul 27, 2012, 11:49 AM
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Did you get the wires to clear along the can in the V-max Eco?
Old Jul 27, 2012, 02:14 PM
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No hope without this bubble:

http://koti.mbnet.fi/b12/kuvat/kopterit/vmax1.JPG

With it no problem. Also the battery hatch is very convenient mod. Removing the wing for battery change is a 100% no way for me.


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