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Jul 11, 2012, 05:39 PM
52 legs done, 53 next.
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Thread OP
How about a couple of these 60V max input linear regulators to provide the 12V for the fet drivers and the 5V to power the main processor as well as the OPTO on the Unilog 2.

http://uk.farnell.com/fairchild-semi...220/dp/1564497

With 1.5A current handling abilaty, atleast that part should be well safe. But is there anything else i am missing on there?
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Jul 11, 2012, 05:52 PM
52 legs done, 53 next.
jjmouris's Avatar
Thread OP
I believe this is the driver found on the cheap 200A controllers;
http://uk.farnell.com/international-...ide/dp/8639582

And this is what is found on the old CC Phoenix series;
http://uk.farnell.com/intersil/isl67...33?Ntt=isl6700

Note that the IR2101S has a peak output current of 360ma or 0.36A and the ISL6700 a whopping 1.4A !!!

Now multiply that by 3 and you can see why it is important to have a half capable power supply to the fet drivers.
Jul 11, 2012, 06:20 PM
52 legs done, 53 next.
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Thread OP
And this is what i believe is on the YGE 200 HV;

http://uk.farnell.com/national-semic...ic8/dp/1008266

Up to 3A peak !!!

It also has the shortest delays.

Half tempted to fit these and with each driver it's own linear regulator.
Jul 13, 2012, 03:23 AM
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Mutchy's Avatar
Richard and I successfully flashed our Red Brick ESC's today. In the end we both managed to solder leads onto our MLF sized Atmega8 chips. Both Red Bricks have identical green cards but I have the lower resistance FETS. We both had Hacker B50 7L motors connected.
When tested with a servo driver to provide the pulse train to the ESC and a 2S LiPo his Red Brick works perfectly with a very nice sharp braking action.
However my motor stutters when ramped up and won't rotate continuously at all. Looks like my luck with this ESC has run out.

A few notes for others who want to flash their Red Bricks:

First go here:
http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/RapidESC+Database
to identify the correct firmware for your ESC. This data base includes links to pictures of the front and most times the back of the ESC. There are 79 ESC's detailed here for which open source firmware is available. You will need to know which is the correct firmware when you use the flash tool software on your computer to flash the firmware into your ESC chip via the USB port AVR programmer device.

Suitable USB AVR devices are described on the following linked page and the ESC Flash tool is also linked here on this page (from post #1 on this thread) and is a Windows .exe file:
http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Do...g+Instructions
When you have installed and opened this software, you will not be able to find the birdie 70a.hex file nor find any reference to 200A Red Brick ESC's.

The kK Multicopter Flash Tool on this page is the one to use:
http://lazyzero.de/en/modellbau/kkmulticopterflashtool
The first paragraph under the image of the screen refers to flashing ESC's and refers to Simon K's firmware versions. Download V0.63 Beta 8. It is available in Windows, Mac OS X versions and has the "enable bootloader" option for flashing the Atmega8 chip.
I used the Macintosh version which loaded immediately and ran without needing any supplementary software or drivers.

We used a Smartieparts board as our USB asp programmer. This board is a bolt on board which uses pogo pins to contact pads on the Turnigy/FlySky/Eurgle/etc 9x radio motherboard for flashing the Atmega8 chip with Er9x or other similar firmware. You have to solder leads onto the board to use it as a standalone USBasp programmer. For this board In the KK Multicopter Flash Tool you select USBasp clone as the programmer from the drop down menu.

Leave the next two windows as "usb" and "19200".
In the next window select "atmega8 based brushless ESC (8k Flash) + enable bootloader"
The option of "Flashing firmware" should be highlighted in blue.
Leave the next window blank.
In the drop down menu at the side of the next window select "birdie 70a" or "70a " depending on your version of the Red Brick.
In the next window the drop down menu offers versions of the firmware with different brake settings. Select your preference. To the immediate right of this widow is an (i) information button and a green button. The information button downloads the page:
http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Do...g+Instructions

The green button, when pressed, starts uploading the firmware. (Yes, Eienstein, I know, it's obvious…)

Edit: The detailed Instruction manual for KKmulticopter Flash Tool is here:
http://lazyzero.de/en/modellbau/kkmu...ashtool/manual
Last edited by Mutchy; Jul 15, 2012 at 12:19 AM. Reason: Unkind comments re Windows deleted. Link to database added
Jul 13, 2012, 03:30 AM
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Oh, and here's my soldering job. I used multicore wire and trimmed about half of the strands away. I found that the multiple strands held enough solder to bind to the leg of the chip. There is no need to put solder on the tip of your iron. With a toothpick put a little flux on the leg of the chip. Bend the tinned wire at right angles and hold it in position with one finger. Position the wire against the leg and then press the tip of the iron against the wire.
Last edited by Mutchy; Jul 13, 2012 at 03:31 AM. Reason: typo
Jul 13, 2012, 05:29 AM
52 legs done, 53 next.
jjmouris's Avatar
Thread OP
Steve, can you please post clear pictures of both the logic side and the power side of your speed controller that does not seem to work. There is probably a little difference somewhere that makes it not work. I have run the wrong hex file on my speed controllers once or twice and even had the correct startup beeps but no running motors. It could be that some of the high side and low sides are switched on your power section.

We'll get it sorted.



Well done on making the other one work! Hope you like the performance!
Last edited by jjmouris; Jul 13, 2012 at 06:08 AM.
Jul 13, 2012, 07:19 AM
Registered User
Mutchy's Avatar
I don't know what to look for but a couple of things I notice on the power side:
1) there's not much solder on the left leg of each FET in the picture except for the one in the bottom left corner. There is definitely some solder under each left leg and a connection between the resistor and the leg of each FET. From the little I see the other two boards are similarly soldered. Another controller I have here has large blobs of solder on the left legs covering the end of the resistor, the pad underneath and the leg.
2) the post on the top left corner that goes through each board seems not to be soldered very well to the top board. There appears to be a fracture around the periphery of the post and almost no solder.

I can't see anything unsoldered on the control board and it all looks the same as the other Red Brick I have here.

A bit more history. With the original firmware the ESC became very hot while waiting for the Rx to be connected. Each beep in the four beep sequence drew a peak of 80 to 100 Watts during the beep. This happened on two occasions; once while trying to find out which version of the instructions applied to this controller, understanding the beep sequence and then setting the number of cells low enough to achieve sustained running of the motor, and the second while I was waiting to launch before flying last Saturday. I had to program the cell number to four to get the ESC to run the motor on 6 cells. It would not run on 6 or 5 cell setting.

I achieved only two climbs. On the second climb I am almost positive the motor stopped before I switched it off at the top of the climb.
Edit: I did not try to run it until today after flashing... got busy with another project and forgot.

I have a theory that the lack of a good connection to that post is the problem. It appears to be the Ground connection for the whole top board. maybe the connection has deteriorated with the thin solder fracturing during thermal cycling. Maybe it was a high resistance path which has desoldered itself... but I can not remember seeing any solder when I took the heat shrink off.

All comments and help most appreciated.

Steve

Looks like someone has hacked the F5B UK Yahoo Group mailing list. I received an email purporting to be from George which is highly suspicious.
Last edited by Mutchy; Jul 13, 2012 at 07:39 AM.
Jul 13, 2012, 08:18 AM
52 legs done, 53 next.
jjmouris's Avatar
Thread OP
Steve, can you confirm you used birdie70a.hex on that controller? Try flashing it again.

Jul 14, 2012, 12:03 AM
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Mutchy's Avatar
Success!
I have my Red Brick running now with the birdie 70a firmware. Before re-flashing the firmware I decided to re-solder the post in the corner of the ESC which connects the battery negative lead to the top ( bottom? well, the visible anyway) power board. It runs beautifully and the brake snaps the power off almost instantly!
Brilliant work Simon, George and Joe.
Thanks also Joe, for your encouragement to post photos of the front and back of my Red Brick ESC. I would not have looked closely at all the soldered joints otherwise.
Now for a test flight while our unseasonably warm - 22 Deg Celsius max yesterday in the middle of winter - continues. Can't wait!
Steve

PS I have the impression that you have been using these Red Bricks without the heat sink. Is that so?
Last edited by Mutchy; Jul 14, 2012 at 12:09 AM.
Jul 14, 2012, 09:55 AM
52 legs done, 53 next.
jjmouris's Avatar
Thread OP
Great news!

No heatsink but some extra caps.

Jul 14, 2012, 10:59 PM
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post deleted
Last edited by Mutchy; Jul 15, 2012 at 12:09 AM.
Jul 20, 2012, 10:36 AM
Registered User
Hi Steve and everybody else. It is MY email account which was hacked, not the F5BUK one. What a pain. I fear I took the bait on a phishing outing. I was using Yahoo and they cleverly ask you every two weeks or so, or after you have used several computers in succession, to verify your email and password! I got so used to it ( and it irritates my wife no end) that I think I did it for a Phishing expedition. Anyway shortly after doing it the phone started ringing from kind relatives who wanted to get me back from Madrid.
Trouble is the phishers deleted my address book and seem to have immobilised my account so I can't contact everybody to warn them. I fear they are reading any emails sent to me! I am not getting any!
I have of course opened an email account with another provider but I am not broadcasting the details yet.
Jul 20, 2012, 03:00 PM
Registered User
Mutchy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmouris
Great news!

No heatsink but some extra caps.

Aah... extra Caps. I have long leads which I should reconfigure somehow but the geometry eludes me. In the meantime I ordered some spare caps - well actually 100 of them - from The Cap King at US$ 0.20 each and have delayed my bench and flight tests. They are Nichicon HV 35v 220uF 35HV220 from here:
http://www.thecapking.com/whatwestock.html
Much cheaper than Farnells who wanted over one pond sterling each.

I also want to use the boot loader before I remove the wires from the legs of the chip and I am waiting for my HK dongle to arrive.

Commiserations George. How frustrating! I am glad you know what happened and have a strategy to deal with the consequences.

Steve
Jul 22, 2012, 03:49 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by George Shering
... I fear they are reading any emails sent to me! ...
I offered to transfer 3000Euro to 'you' but they did not get back to me. Scammers are not what they used to be

Vriendelijke groeten Ron
Jul 23, 2012, 10:31 AM
52 legs done, 53 next.
jjmouris's Avatar
Thread OP
Another 200A ESC arrived at my house. This time it's a Mystery Cloud in a yellow heatschrink from e-bay as mentioned before. It has the bigger processor for easy soldering, no BEC and PO403BD fets. It's not a bad deal for those still thinking about getting one.



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