Reprogram a brushless ESC to get a brushed ESC with no delays / RC Switch - Page 2 - RC Groups
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May 15, 2012, 05:39 PM
Quad Whisperer
Here is a new version. It has arming and the motor is stopped if signal is lost.
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May 16, 2012, 04:49 AM
Nice minimal code. Impressive! I like your "ldy" macros and pwm measurement, and it's nice that the hardware PWM can work on those boards. Cheers
May 16, 2012, 01:40 PM
Quad Whisperer

I would like to to see a C compiler make a same size binary.

But then C code is actually human readable!

At least AVR ASM is better than the train wreck called PIC ASM
May 23, 2012, 05:12 PM
Quad Whisperer

RC Switch

Here is a firmware to convert the ESC to a RC controlled switch.

Load+ is connected to battey+ and load- to any or all of the motor wires.

It looks for 10 input pulses in a row, without timeout, above 1500 uS to turn on. Else it stays off. It will not turn on due to a few glitches.
May 28, 2012, 12:29 PM
Registered User
Yes that binary size is impressive. Probably could have done my implementation in assembly but I chose not to to keep myself sane.

I also do lots of things in software to keep it generic for multiple ESCs I think I have done about 15 different ESCs myself though I haven't pushed up to the repository lately.

Feel like re-implementing my 2in1 controller in assembly so I can then port it to the 4k SiLabs chips.....
2in1 Test Drive (0 min 48 sec)
Jun 02, 2012, 03:23 AM
Quad Whisperer
Originally Posted by SteveQRSC assembly but I chose not to to keep myself sane. ...

Good job on the 2in1 controller. I assume motor power is max 50% when motors goes opposite ways and 100% when going same direction? Motors are controlled simultaneously when going in the same direction and alternating when going opposite ways?

I wish there was robot fighting here in Norway, it seem like a load of fun!
Jun 02, 2012, 03:40 AM
Quad Whisperer
Here is the newest version. It solves a problem that is common to many bi-directional brushed motor controllers without brake.

The problem: driving at full speed, lower the throttle to coast, and just passing to the reverse side causes full braking.

This is caused when only lower or upper side of the bridge is switched.

This version switches both low an high side. Now it is possible to get a seamless transition from braking to reverse just by giving reverse throttle.

Makes it much more fun to drive cars like the Lunch Box or the Wheelie king. No need for braking, neutral, then reversing. Brake and reverse in one throttle movement. This also applies for going reverse, then forward.

I also have applied sounds: power on, arming and over temp alarm.

And I almost forgot: a adjustable dead band and adjustable drag brake for crawling! Works very well!

Jun 19, 2012, 08:20 AM
Quad Whisperer
Here is a video of my Nikko Razer with modded ESC's:

The resurected Nikko Razer (1 min 19 sec)
Jun 24, 2012, 04:17 AM
Registered User

Turnigy 20A esc non reversible

i have a few lying around. can i mod the esc to have reverse? how? please reply
Jun 24, 2012, 09:13 AM
Quad Whisperer
Brushed or brushless ESC?
Aug 02, 2012, 05:52 PM
Registered User
How do you actually put the firmware on the ESC?
Aug 03, 2012, 07:49 AM
Registered User
tigar's Avatar
Originally Posted by Masa159
How do you actually put the firmware on the ESC?
I think the same way they flash the Simonk firmware for multis.
Aug 03, 2012, 09:36 AM
We want... Information!
Bruce Abbott's Avatar
Originally Posted by Masa159
How do you actually put the firmware on the ESC?
RCTimer/Turnigy/Hobbywing ESC DIY Firmware Flashing
Sep 15, 2012, 04:43 PM
Registered User
danielnc06's Avatar
Edit: I tried the rc switch a second time and it worked!, no more heat either.... just no variable brightness.. oh well.

One observation... with the LEDs... in the Off position.. they glow just this bleed through or possibly part of the code?

Thank You KK
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A quick question regarding this. I reflashed this model of esc (hobbywing 25A):

to the brushless firmware.. works great although I am using it to act as a variable brightness led switch.. and i am testing it out while powering an stick-on led strip of about 45 leds..... it works great except that it is getting pretty warm..much warmer than i would of though I would estimate about 120-130degrees F. Is this the model with the "bootstrap" capacitor that was mentioned earlier and this is a malfunction or do you think its just running this hot since because its leds...I would not think it get this hot... they should only be pulling about .3-.4 A total max...

I did try the rc switch firmware with no luck before this.....
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Last edited by danielnc06; Sep 15, 2012 at 11:26 PM.
Sep 15, 2012, 09:02 PM
Registered User
danielnc06's Avatar
A very good thread for this topic with the pinouts of most esc's on the market:

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