Micro MIG 15 Mod -> Silent Seagull EDF - Page 3 - RC Groups
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May 19, 2012, 08:37 AM
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vengeance111's Avatar
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May 19, 2012, 01:18 PM
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nothing but small adjustments.. waiting for electr parts to arrive before i can build everything in, and i want to wait with building the wing mount untill i know the CG of the birds body with everything on it's place inside.. plus i'm leaving for a 10 day sculpting job in england tomorrow.. patience!
May 19, 2012, 04:25 PM
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hanzie's Avatar
Wingerons? Never heard of those, but I think I'll try it some day. It's just way too cool...

As for carbon covering, have you seen this stuff?
Beware with 2.4 gHz though, carbon fibre blocks the signal.

What Tx/Rx system do you have? Bind plugs are just little jumpers for between the ground and the fase wire of the binding channel on the Rx. Only 2.4 gHz systems need them. Once you plug in a bind-plug and activate the Rx (The receiver), it will get into bind-mode. When there is a transmitter around that is also in bind-mode, the Rx will connect to it and remember the codings and algorithms this specific Tx transmits. After that, the Rx is permanently bound to this particular Tx (Untill you bind it with an other one) so it will only listen to commands from that, and only that transmitter. It will also remember the positions the stick were in during binding and use those as the neutral positions when you lose connection.

That said, what vettster means is; you should set your throttle trim to neutral, and bind the Rx again with the Tx. Then after that, you can trim your throttle down so there will never be any throttle signal to the esc when powering up, allowing it to arm.
Hope that helps you,
May 20, 2012, 03:38 AM
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Wow! that stuff looks great! looks fragile too, but i guess embedded in some coating results in very strong covering.. didn't know carbon fiber blocks the 2.4 ghz signal! good to know because i was planning on giving the belly (under the reciever) a protective layer... thnx!

im using the system that came with the MIG. I understand the procedure but its not a very advanced system, and the reciever doesnt seem to have a 'bind plug slot', nor does the transmitter have a 'bind mode' (see picture) .. any suggestions?
May 20, 2012, 08:11 AM
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Some thoughts on "WHY a seagull..?":

Well, and this is pure speculation, i think the shape of a seagulls (and most birds) wings has some advantages over airplane wings..

Considering the vertical airflow, so only the downward factor of the movement of a wing through the air, there are a few differences i think.

No 1: Normal swept up wings have a tendancy to 'slide down' through the air a bit.. this shape make them inherently stable, but a big portion of lift is lost through big wing tip vortices.

No 2: A traditional gull-wing arrangment is also stable, but will have slightly less 'slide through' tendancies. but the hard corners in the wings shape could cause big local airspeed differences, and hence turbulent airflow...

No 3: A real seagulls wings. all airflow is directed to the top part of the wing, where the profile is optimum. this leaves very little airflow to make wing tip vortices, and it's well rounded shape doesn't cause big local airspeed differences, which results in a stable airflow..! this shape is inherently unstable though, but seagulls dont care about that. They're expert flyers.

..I think this is part of why those big fat heavy seagulls fly like they're on rails, and become seemingly weightless..
May 20, 2012, 11:19 AM
Fear me, I'm a space-duck.
hanzie's Avatar
Maybe that A3 controller makes it easier to fly with a realistic wing, would be even more seagully...

As for your radio, I don't know. 2.4 gHz radios usually have at least something to get into bind mode. I always use my dx-7; works for everything and isn't that expensive.
If you have any other systems, you could use those to see if the problem lies with the esc or the radio. You could also plug your esc in a servo tester to see if it arms. If that doesn't work, it's pretty much certain your esc is dead...
May 30, 2012, 05:39 PM
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Im back from my sculpting job on an English beach, had 10 days to ponder about seagulls while they were soaring over my head.. and I've become very doubtfull about the wingerons. I just want those wings to twist..! instead of cutting out parts it would be much more easy to carve some grooves in the wings, so they will bend more easily. now i just have to figure out the direction and the placing of the grooves for the optimal effect. and some flexible covering.. maybe blenderm tape.

In the mean time..:
some inspiring truth!
Jun 04, 2012, 06:45 AM
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I've finally been able to fit in all the electronics, and they all work. (except for that stupid ESC that wont run the motor. but I'll fix that later, one way or the other)
So i could determin the CG of the complete fuselage, and start fixing the wing spar where it should be.
Again I got lots of help from around-the-house-stuff..

Jun 04, 2012, 10:09 AM
Fear me, I'm a space-duck.
hanzie's Avatar
What do you use to keep that hatch in place? They look a bit like those strips that are used as shop-security-alarm-thingies on clothes and such.
Jun 04, 2012, 10:21 AM
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hehe, yeah nobody steal my bird..!

no they're made out of the edges of the plastic box I ordered online, including a chinese meal..
Last edited by Johannez; Jun 05, 2012 at 09:48 PM.
Jun 07, 2012, 07:12 PM
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WELL, seems like Bobbyhigh's advice was the best option after all..

Originally Posted by bobbyhigh

May i offer the following tips:

...3. "Twisty" Wing -
You may have to sand down the trailing edge of the wing near the wing tip to reduce the rigidity of the wing.
I've carved out a section on the bottomside of the wing, untill it was about 2-3 mm thick. I've kept the leading edge and trailing edge intact. I used a dremel and a lighttable to do that, because that seemed to me the best way to keep a keen eye on an even thickness, and not go to deep.

...and it works..!

wing (1 min 43 sec)

Now I will cover it again, with a 2 mm sheet of depron. BUT i wont glue it all around, because that will add a lot of rigidity again. instead I'll just glue it to the trailing edge, and make it slide under a thin strip of plastic at the leading edge. this way it will be able to move around a bit while the wing twists, thus preventing it will obstruct the twisting, while still keeping a perfect profile at all times..!

And if i may say so, I'm absolutely in love with the hobbyglue-coating-thing!
all parts have been coated, they're more sturdy, beautifully smooth and white (it doesn't turn yellow or flake like parquet lacquer), water and dirt resistant (after weeks of abuse there still not a single dent or stain on those wings..!) AND last but not least, it makes everything superglue receptable..!
I cant imagine anymore building a foam plane and NOT coating it.. it's just not finnished, it's like making a cake without baking it..!

anyway, I know "HEMA knutsellijm" is not exactly internationally available, but just find yourself a cheap white water deludable (acryllic!) hobbyglue for kids, and try it!
Jun 07, 2012, 07:57 PM
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Janusz Jawien's Avatar
"This video is private"....can you do something about it?...
Jun 08, 2012, 01:38 AM
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sorry, done..!
Jun 08, 2012, 03:59 PM
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I got the ESC working!

bought a programming card, hooked it up, also didn't work.. checked all the cables and connections, they seemed fine, but redid some of them them anyway, and then..it worked! must've been a bad connection then...

that means all major problems have been tackled! Got all electronics up and running, twisting wings, tail is rotating fluently (applied some teflon spray, worked miraculously!) Just have to close the gaps in the wings again with some depron sheets, and then it's time for.. a FIRST TEST FLIGHT..!
it'll be somewhere next week though, have to go for the weekend. KEEP YOU POSTED!
Jun 08, 2012, 04:43 PM
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Janusz Jawien's Avatar
The twist on the wing tip is very minimal....
but if you will compensate with tail movements you could be OK!!!!
Good luck with your maiden!

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