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Jul 26, 2012, 11:24 PM
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That is ok we are both vastly over insured for accidental death (she was hoping I would croak from the heart attack in February so she could like high on the hog until next January (when she would have to pay the taxes)). LOL
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Jul 27, 2012, 08:55 PM
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Looks fantastic!! Cannot wait till I get to this part of the building process on mine.
Jul 28, 2012, 01:18 AM
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Looks great! The only comment I can make is that when dealing with plastic, use very light pressure and slow speed so the cutter (drill, saw blade, router bit, etc.) will CUT rather than melt the plastic, PVC is easy to cut but also really really easy to melt by going to fast.

Glad the pics were of some use.
Jul 28, 2012, 07:39 AM
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Gravman's Avatar
I agree but the press I have is set at the lowest speed which is not very slow. If I change the belt position it only goes faster. I am always a day late and a dollar short.
Jul 28, 2012, 10:21 AM
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Not sure if you find one, but they used to sell a variable speed gadget that you could plug in and it would enable you to slow drills etc. down or make them variable speed (I harbor fright still sells them).
Jul 29, 2012, 12:44 PM
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Gravman's Avatar


Today I did some filling and sanding on one of the torpedo assemblies. I'm not sure if this turned out as well as it might have. The transition between the cast part and the ring with the indents should form a nice arc. In some areas around the circumference it looks pretty good. In others not so much. Additional sanding might improve this. Looking closely at the cast part provided by MBH I can see a couple of areas that I should have addressed "BEFORE" I cast my own part. I guess what should be done is a turned master which combines both the cast part and the extension ring. If you turned this out of a piece of bass wood you could get a nice curve and a consistent shape all the way through the body of the part. If I decided to go this route it would be a lot of trouble and take a lot of time. I know that some of you guys would not hesitate to make these corrections and for others this would not be required. Take a look at the primed part and tell me what you think. Be honest. I would like your input.
Jul 29, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Browndog's Avatar
Can you cut the fins off and sand the dia's the same.You can cast more fins from the glue on fins
Jul 29, 2012, 01:24 PM
Registered User
2 thoughts, one final color will be a factor darker colors will hide this minor detail lighter will make it stand out. Two if your like me you will drive on and get to final paint then it will drive you nuts till you tear it down and fix it lol. If it's a issue now it will forever be a annoyance I say turn out a correct part use the existing fins you have to build a new master part and remould. I used to sculpt mould and cast replica game props ( helmets weapons armour etc.) and sometimes would have to remould up to 3 masters to get a final production mould.
Jul 29, 2012, 02:59 PM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
You can build a variable speed unit from a ceiling fan control from the big box/hardware store. Just make sure you get the analog type that can handle the amps. I put one in a handy box in the middle of an appliance cord. It was for an old Dremel that only had one speed.

Jul 29, 2012, 03:50 PM
"day ain't over yet-"
der kapitan's Avatar
For lower amp draw tools, you might try a good quality wall-mounted rheostat type dimmer switch.

I use one to regulate my shop's exhaust fan, and it's worked fine for years---.
Jul 29, 2012, 07:25 PM
Registered User
looking again at the pic that I found for you the transition is pretty good on your cast part, I think a lot of the change in diameter (to the tapered part where the torp motor is) is hidden by the roll off rack.

If the 'off size' hubs on the props bother you then make some new ones. Maybe make a master of the two hubs stacked together then use a set of blades from the ones you have right now. That is IF it bothers you enough to bother you, on a boat of this detail one minor thing that looks awful to you will probably not even be noticed. If you find a rivet counter (which I notoriously am sometimes) and it bothers them that much, make sure the dingus in question knows about the amount of work it was to do it that way and offer to let THEM do another (better) set for you!
Jul 29, 2012, 10:35 PM
1/2 a bubble off
Apismelifera's Avatar
Originally Posted by Gravman
Take a look at the primed part and tell me what you think. Be honest. I would like your input.
So is the tail of the torpedo too big, or is the hub on the propeller too small?

One possibly both of those parts is out of scale, dimension wise. Once you know what the correct dimensions are, then you'll have to bite the bullet and fix the offending part. It will bug you till you do. Because you sound like you're a rivet counter to me. And that is not necessarily a bad thing. I'm not trying to offend you in any way, just making an observation.

If it was me, I would make new propellers to match the torpedo and go on with it.

I have been following your build and you do nice work. Keep at it.
Jul 29, 2012, 11:28 PM
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Gravman's Avatar
Thanks very much for the input guys. I am going to make a new master. I am not a rivet counter, not by a long shot. Those guys and gals are amazing builders. What they do is something on a whole different level. They inspire me to try and make it better. These Mark 13 's are the largest details on the deck at 8 plus inches long. I am going to haul out my old pen turning lathe and clean it up. Stay tuned.
Jul 30, 2012, 03:51 AM
Registered User
T M T. I am in awe.I say that to few.

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