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May 02, 2012, 03:52 AM
Registered User
Tamjets's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AIR SALLY
he did'nt get to fly ? where his F-86 ? the T conversion looks good .ck my F-20 Thread ..you need to put a turbine in one of these when i get it done
I didn't fix it for him. Too busy get the F-4 ready and I let him fly my Habu.
But I landed too close to edge of the run the weed caught me.
That why he upset without any planes to fly on sunday.
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May 02, 2012, 06:20 AM
Registered User
Well mine is ready.

The couple of problems I ran into were.

1. Those stupid four bolts for the main wings. Geezzzzzz! Took forever. I barely got them in. I didn't use loc-tite though. I thought that's one place not to use it so you can take the wings off for transport. Hummm?

If you have to use loc-tite there then you might has well just glue the wings on.

2. The front opening for the gear is slightly off. Or the retract is. I had to cut a small notch so the wheel collar would clear.

3. I did cut a notch out for the rudder control rod. I don't see a problem with it. The tail cone is glued over the notch.

4. One wing, no matter how tight the two bolts. Was loose lateraly just a hair to see a gap when pushed forward & back. To fix it I wrapped the front & rear dowls with some of the clear tape that came with the kit. Now it's tight.

I think that's all.

Servos used: HS 85mg for all but the Elevator. There I used a HS-225mg. It's close to the recomended specs. It's 67 oz./in. Torque at 6v. I have my BEC Pro set to 6v.

If anyone really thinks it's not up to par, tell me.

100a CC Ice, CC BEC Pro wire to main battery.

AUW with a HP 3s x 2 5000mah 35c is 6.8lbs.

Oh, rudder & front steering are seperate.

Here's a couple of pics. Hows my Electronics bay look?
Last edited by ColoradoHeliNut; May 02, 2012 at 06:27 AM.
May 02, 2012, 10:57 AM
Registered User
Whos nose gear is that? shulmans? The install looks ok to me
May 02, 2012, 11:17 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoHeliNut
Well mine is ready.

The couple of problems I ran into were.

1. Those stupid four bolts for the main wings. Geezzzzzz! Took forever. I barely got them in. I didn't use loc-tite though. I thought that's one place not to use it so you can take the wings off for transport. Hummm?

If you have to use loc-tite there then you might has well just glue the wings on.
This thread locker is used on fasteners that need to be reused (wing bolts). I have some at home for this sort of thing.

http://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-VC-.../dp/B005ETYAX0

I would not fly it without some sort of thread lock on it.

scott.
May 02, 2012, 11:50 AM
stvinvegas's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoHeliNut
The couple of problems I ran into were.

1. Those stupid four bolts for the main wings. Geezzzzzz! Took forever. I barely got them in. I didn't use loc-tite though. I thought that's one place not to use it so you can take the wings off for transport. Hummm?

2. The front opening for the gear is slightly off. Or the retract is. I had to cut a small notch so the wheel collar would clear.

3. I did cut a notch out for the rudder control rod. I don't see a problem with it. The tail cone is glued over the notch.

Oh, rudder & front steering are seperate.
I had the same problem with my front gear rubbing one side, I bent the wire a bit, but I am going to notch it out like you did to be safe.

I also found no problem with the rudder notch issue.
1. It did not move
2. The rear cover holds it in so I don't need to glue a piece of wood. However, if I was to do another one, I would string it through and then glue after like Bwana did.

Lastly, did anyone else have an issue with the steering clevis on the front retract. The problem I'm having is with front steering. The clevis will not move freely up and down as I retract the gear. I am thinking of going with a dubro black and gold locking clevis, I did the same on my habu and its worked great. any thoughts?
May 02, 2012, 11:54 AM
Mustang Fever
Colorado:

Are you at all concerned about your antenna being that close to a carbon fiber object?

I'm not familiar with the Dx radios, but I know that Futaba says to keep the ends of the antennae 1/2" away from metal or CF objects.

CF does absorb or attenuate microwave signals- it's used as part of "stealth" mods to aircraft, etc.
May 02, 2012, 01:15 PM
Registered User
ZACATTACK's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamjets
Nothing goes stop me now.
Working on the turbine conversion and this what I got so far.
Remove the front former to fit a pair of 10 oz each side fuel tank and it is right on the CG.
I be using 4oz airtrap tank in the front of the ducting. So all the fuel be right on the C.G.
Making new former to mount the turbine and bifurcated pipe.
The bifurcated pipe be done tomorrow night.
Go Tam Go!! The EDF Mad Scientist!!
May 02, 2012, 01:33 PM
Registered User
Tamjets's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZACATTACK
Go Tam Go!! The EDF Mad Scientist!!
Turbine Conversion King....Lew
May 02, 2012, 03:14 PM
Registered User
kevin's Avatar
that battery looks suspect. is it puffed? ... or just looks that way in the picture. if it is stay away from it if you value your new plane.




Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoHeliNut
Well mine is ready.

The couple of problems I ran into were.

1. Those stupid four bolts for the main wings. Geezzzzzz! Took forever. I barely got them in. I didn't use loc-tite though. I thought that's one place not to use it so you can take the wings off for transport. Hummm?

If you have to use loc-tite there then you might has well just glue the wings on.

2. The front opening for the gear is slightly off. Or the retract is. I had to cut a small notch so the wheel collar would clear.

3. I did cut a notch out for the rudder control rod. I don't see a problem with it. The tail cone is glued over the notch.

4. One wing, no matter how tight the two bolts. Was loose lateraly just a hair to see a gap when pushed forward & back. To fix it I wrapped the front & rear dowls with some of the clear tape that came with the kit. Now it's tight.

I think that's all.

Servos used: HS 85mg for all but the Elevator. There I used a HS-225mg. It's close to the recomended specs. It's 67 oz./in. Torque at 6v. I have my BEC Pro set to 6v.

If anyone really thinks it's not up to par, tell me.

100a CC Ice, CC BEC Pro wire to main battery.

AUW with a HP 3s x 2 5000mah 35c is 6.8lbs.

Oh, rudder & front steering are seperate.

Here's a couple of pics. Hows my Electronics bay look?
May 02, 2012, 03:22 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobH13
Whos nose gear is that? shulmans? The install looks ok to me
Stock E-Flite strut
May 02, 2012, 03:25 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin
that battery looks suspect. is it puffed? ... or just looks that way in the picture. if it is stay away from it if you value your new plane.

Not a flight battery. Thanks though.

It's an old "Voltz" 45c 4500mah battery I used in my FW F-18e
May 02, 2012, 03:35 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Hunt
Colorado:

Are you at all concerned about your antenna being that close to a carbon fiber object?

I'm not familiar with the Dx radios, but I know that Futaba says to keep the ends of the antennae 1/2" away from metal or CF objects.

CF does absorb or attenuate microwave signals- it's used as part of "stealth" mods to aircraft, etc.
I didn't think the tubing was CF. It's pretty thin & week if ya ask me. Thought/think it's FG.

I just put it where the destructs, Ahhh I mean Insrtucts put it.

Page 33 http://www.e-fliterc.com/ProdInfo/Fi...125-Manual.pdf
May 02, 2012, 03:41 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by stvinvegas
Lastly, did anyone else have an issue with the steering clevis on the front retract. The problem I'm having is with front steering. The clevis will not move freely up and down as I retract the gear. I am thinking of going with a dubro black and gold locking clevis, I did the same on my habu and its worked great. any thoughts?

Just the silcone tubing over the clevice caused the retract to bind/jam & stop it from retracting all the way. My retract worm gear starts slipping & screeeeeching. AHHHHH! It's like finger nails on a chalk board.
May 02, 2012, 05:16 PM
stvinvegas's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoHeliNut
Just the silcone tubing over the clevice caused the retract to bind/jam & stop it from retracting all the way. My retract worm gear starts slipping & screeeeeching. AHHHHH! It's like finger nails on a chalk board.
Mine too, it freaked me out and I could picture having to order a new one from HH cause it blew up. I know it has the protection in it, but still freaky sound.

How did you fix the silcone tube issue? I was afraid it would pop off if I pulled it down to low on the clevis.
May 02, 2012, 05:46 PM
deltas are cool
AIR SALLY's Avatar
hey Tam did you get your turbine pipe today?


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