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Old Apr 30, 2012, 12:30 PM
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By series, I mean this configuration:
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 12:34 PM
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Got it. If you're running 3S, go + to + and - to -. If you have some sections with a number of LEDs not divisable by three, some of the LEDs probably won't work.
Old Apr 30, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Thanks. I've used these led strips extensively. I usually wire the strips and segments in parallel for the reasons mentioned, but I am now curious about electrotor's calculations. I'll see if I can wire up a few segments in series in the next couple of days to test his statement.
Old Jan 17, 2013, 05:23 AM
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These strips have buzz bar type strips running the full length and the LEDs are connected, sets of three in series, to the buzz bar. To power them up as series strips, the positive front end of each strip should be connected to the positive tail end of the previous strip. The same for the negative to negative. Connecting them as shown in the above diagram would leave the circuit open and they would not work.

Sorry brain not in gear this morning. I was thinking strips and not individual groups of three. The diagram is correct and the individual LEDs would be connected in series, but the would glow very dim on 12 volts. The strips are meant to be connected as I describe above, in order to work correctly on 12 volts.

Tom
Last edited by Tomkfly; Jan 17, 2013 at 05:56 AM. Reason: Incorrect information
Old Jan 17, 2013, 07:12 AM
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Like so...

Old Jan 17, 2013, 03:00 PM
Barn-E-Stormer is offline
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You can make a dimmer with a few diodes.
Old Jan 27, 2013, 12:21 PM
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My question is on a sound module running on 2s I cannot get this thing to work. I have it wired exactly the way the wiring diagrams have, but no joy. Can anyone help? I can send a picture it that helps. Just have to take a picture.
Old Jan 27, 2013, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quitcherbitchen View Post
My question is on a sound module running on 2s I cannot get this thing to work. I have it wired exactly the way the wiring diagrams have, but no joy. Can anyone help? I can send a picture it that helps. Just have to take a picture.

Quitcher:
I would recommend posting it over in the DIY electronics area. I realize it is not DIY, but that is where the diode heads hang out.

I would recommend posting the link to the source along with pics of the item.

https://www.rcgroups.com/diy-electronics-199/
Old Jan 27, 2013, 01:34 PM
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Thank you very much.
Old Jan 27, 2013, 02:37 PM
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You need to make sure the ground on the RX switch is also tied to the battery ground.

Look at the dimmer schematic.
Old Jan 27, 2013, 02:46 PM
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OK, so I am using a separate battery to power the sound unit. So I need to tie into the ground of that battery for the switch to work? How do I do that? I am not using a separate UBEC. If a UBEC is the key I can add one.
Old Jan 27, 2013, 05:03 PM
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Just use a wire to connect the ground (-) of each battery together. The RX switch needs a ground reference to operate.
Old Jan 27, 2013, 06:43 PM
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So the 2s battery for the sound unit will share a negative with the plane battery which is 3s?
Old Jan 28, 2013, 07:08 AM
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Yes, the ground is a reference point. The number of cells does not matter.

Tie the two grounds together and it will work.
Old Jan 30, 2013, 11:38 PM
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Got it working guys. Thanks for all your help. Don't know if I saved very much weight getting rid of the servo and momentary switch by adding a UBEC and the Remote receiver switch, but the trigger on the machine gun is more precise now.


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