There have been a lot of threads/posts regarding the use of heli bricks in planes, but these have drifted down the forum and may not now be so noticeable.
My interest in them came about when I was looking at the V911 micro heli thread and the HK R415 thread. I decided to buy the heli through Ampmodel.com and at the same time I ordered a spare rx brick.
Unlike the mCX brick that others have used and posted on, the V911 brick uses non-linear servos and having been impressed by the HK 5320 servos and their size/weight, I thought that it would be a worthwhile brick alternative.
The package took 7 days to get to the UK from HK, about the same time Hobbyking have been taking recently, so quite respectable. Oddly enough, it doesn't have an aerial attached, but I would assume that normal wire can be used. If anyone knows differently perhaps they could advise. It will also have to have battery and motor connectors soldered on. Looking at the respective weights and costs, I have noted the following.
My favoured package of an HK R415 rx, two HK 5320 servos and a HK 3a brushed ESC (see my blog), weighs 7.3g and costs me £15.39. The V911 brick weighs 5.3g and cost £8.48. I'll ignore p & p charges. An mCX brick would cost approx. £38 in the UK, whilst an AR6400 is £46 (cheaper to buy a Sukhoi 26 at £42!!). Postage would be lower in buying locally.
Obviously, the HK package uses the Spektrum tx with all the benefits, whilst you have to have either the V911 tx or a compatible one (see post 1 of the V911 thread) for the heli brick. The manual says it has a range of 60-80 metres, but that wouldn't be a worry as I only want to fly where I can clearly see a 20in. w/s plane!
I haven't yet decided how to use the brick and with what motor, but I may test it in an old Silverlit SWP airframe that I've had for years. In the meantime perhaps this post will arouse some interest for others to comment and/or have a go.
As a final point, does anyone know what glue is used to hold the motor in the Sukhoi 26 frame? It is a white spongy type, a bit similar to silicon glue. It's also used on the V911 brick. It's very effective; having removed the Sukhoi motor, I know this from experience. As it appears to have good shock absorbing qualities, I would like to use it in various areas. Can it be purchased?

seems interesting. i hope fellows with knowledge of the matter join.
i will keep am eye on it.
regards

60 - 80 meters...... hmm. i like to take a p51 high enough that if blink i loose it. takes 5 or so seconds in a WOT dive to get back to the ground. not sure how hi that is but i have difficulty seeing the wing from the dirt on my glasses.
not so sure that would work for me.
and i love you r415 hk5320 3a setup as well!

ever have low throttle resolution problems with that setup? i have, tho i like to cruise just above throttle off and see how slow and low i can get. the plane is below the tx at this point.

erm.. the range limitation is Purely due to the 70mwatt output of the acompanying Tx Not the Rx itself.
Other tx's give significantly greater (full?) range on this wee rascal. Again visuals limits real world / in the air range explorations :-).
Real problem is that it's setup for Brushed motors on 1s and the Gyro and mixed tail motor is of 'limited' uses on a Plane.
But then for its $12/15 price..shipped.. it's not a huge gamble either
Find it on Aliexpress.com then search for best price.

you can always disable the gyro you know...

SS

No need to even disable it just don't attach a tail motor
Here: is a vendor who will sell a Complete!! V911 for a surprising $30 with FREE shipping
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/106493352.html

I have a spare Rx board for my V911 and was going to try it in a little plane.
Using a FlySky 9X for controlling my V911 so no issues with range.

Incase you have not looked at the various pics of the board on the V911 thread, the main motor connects to the M2 contacts not M1 which is for the tailmotor.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1548027

Also on my heli the motor +ve is connected directly to the battery +ve contact while the motor -ve is connected to the M2 -ve, not sure why, probably saves soldering in close proximity.

Yes, I've seen the pics but I was just going to follow the brick wiring of the heli. I'll be testing it in a gash 21in. w/s foam Cub that was sold a few years back as a free flighter. Without the fitted motor and nicad it weighs 39g. I'll fit the HK GPS-8 as that goes well in my Redwing at 45g although motor + prop. + brick will add another 20g to the Cub even without all connectors. We'll have to wait and see.
The good news is that unlike the Solo Pro brick which is programmed to counteract take-off forces, the V911 doesn't react when throttle is applied so we won't have involuntary rolls every time throttle is applied!
(Interested to note D-D that Welsh water appears to affect us residents in a similar way. Having looked at your posts, I seem to match them with my builds over the last few years.)

Got mine connected up to an AEO GPS-7 (38g thrust on 5X3, bit less on 4.5X3).

Have printed off some of the Peanut scale Rubber plans, will probably do a profile fuselage first to test.

Did look through a bunch of servo horns yesterday, trying to find one that fits, could use a two arm for ailerons, no luck so far. May just have to use crappy belcrank method or mount a 2 arm horn on top of original.

Ailerons needed for the nice little racer i found plan for.

Rx is now wired up, in spite of my shaky hands and lack of soldering skills. Then came the downside - it wouldn't bind. No matter how many times I followed the manual, nothing! The blinking thing was blinking but no movement. What a bind. Still it only cost a couple of pints, so put it down to experience.
Then I thought I'd go through the V911 thread as I'd seen others have the same problem with the heli. One post suggested switching on the tx whilst the rx was still in rapid blink mode, despite the manual instructions, and lo and behold, it worked.
So now we can move forward. With all the rain this week I may have to put floats on the Cub or build a Mini Drake.
Here's a photo of the set up so far.

Del-Dredd - I tried the GPS-7 last year, and to use a Valley saying, it wouldn't punch a hole in a wet Echo! You're going to have to build light to have any penetration.

Did not intend to go heavy, have a couple of GPS-8 on order from HK as well.

Cut out a small STC 17inch wing span, did 6mm depron fuselage, rest is 3mm,
the weight so far of foam, Rx board, motor/prop and battery is 25 grams.

Added some gash lengths of carbon strip and control rods as estimate which took it up to 29 grams,
so should be light enough hopefully, when glued together.
.

Couple of pictures of Mini STC 17 inch wingspan AUW ready to fly 32-33 grams depending on battery.

Yet to fly as wind has been gale like, may have to see if it goes in the barn/garage.

Good news! I'm curious as to the motor unit you used/ It's OK?
I have aquired a distrust of all things AEO :-)
Take a look at this Site: http://www.zioprudenzio.it/fok-air.html
for *many* wonderful card plans. I plan to print mine out at an appropriate to needs 'scale' (these are PDF's :-) Glue stick them to balsa and assemble.
The V911 avionics could be a perfect match.

The motor/gearbox seems to run fine, it was just something i picked up ages ago and had on hand.
The thrust will support the weight of the airframe vertically so should fly ok i guess.

The motor is exactly the same as the GPS7 from Hobbyking, I have order a couple of GPS8's from them.

Well it has had its maiden and 2 other flights today, flew right off the board as they say, slight breeze first thing but flew around fine on half throttle.

After first flight i added a little more downthrust to counteract the ballooning on full throttle, a lot better on second flight of 10 minutes
on an Overlander 150mah 20C 1 cell, still at 3.78V after flight.

Does loops, snap rolls and spins just like my old fullsize STC.

Well happy with it.