Hubsan RTF FPV aircraft (for beginner?) - Page 4 - RC Groups
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May 21, 2012, 10:59 AM
No dear LIPO is a battery...
Originally Posted by chillybee
Things seem to be resolved. I unscrewed the 3 tiny engine mount screws and cut a servo grommet on half to use as 2 spacers on the bottom screws. That would allow pressure to be put on the screw threads and also let me adjust how much the screws were screwed out/in. They are very short so there isn't much extra length to work with. But after adjusting the thrust so that the shaft is perpendicular to the vertical face of the engine pod, a few test glides in the yard with the motor running were fine. Today I'll take it out to the field for a real flight. So it looks very promising.
Hey Chillybee,
Thanks for the tip on the motor angle. I've noticed the exact same thing.
I think I might try to cut the actual stem of the pod and change that angle.
Keep us up to date Chillybee.
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May 24, 2012, 08:52 PM
Registered User

I finally had to add extra up elevator to keep it from nosing over. If you try using the trim, then by the time you have enough up trimmed in, you have practically no travel left when you apply up with the stick so I extended the pushrod to add the extra up deflection. Now neutral on my stick results in about 15 degrees of up which seems to keep the nose level with no more than 50% throttle. Anything more throttle than that still pushes the nose down but maybe that won't be an issue after it picks up more speed. However, it you're flying slow and suddenly need to climb with full power, you're going to be out of luck. But with that said, this plane seems to fly around fine on half throttle so full power probably would rarely be needed with the very peppy brushless motor. I've only had time lately to test it in my yard so tomorrow I'll try to go out to the field and really see how it flies.

In my unprofessional opinion, the motor pylon shouldn't attach to the fuselage as far foward as it currently is. The pylon attaches between the cg and ~ 3 inches aft. If the entire connection to the fuselage was between 1 " and 3" behind the cg, that would probably alleviate the nose over issue because all of the force from the pylon would be totally behind the cg instead of partially on it. The down thrust from the motor would have more of an effect at pushing the back of the plane down resulting in the nose going up.
Last edited by chillybee; Jun 22, 2012 at 12:53 PM.
May 24, 2012, 09:45 PM
Registered User
rmorhan's Avatar
so is eveyone using this plane having intermittant bind issues? mine does when it feels like it but have to repower both tx & plane a few times till it does. just wondering if it,s a common problem. otherwise not too bad for toy grade stuff but i,m not trying flight till i get the bind issue resolved...rob m
May 24, 2012, 09:51 PM
Registered User
Mine seems to bind easily the 1st time I turn on the transmitter. If I turn everything off and then back on again, it takes a lot longer and sometimes won't bind at all. It seems to work better with a 3S lipo.
Jun 07, 2012, 11:13 AM
Rotary~myPast,Present &Future!

poor man's spyhawk - trial run

After drooling over the spyhawk FPV videos, I put this FPV plane together and cost just under $200.

Plane almost ready to fly (without receiver only) - $31,
Turnigy 9x transmitter + receiver - $40
video transmitter - $20
camera - $35
video receiver - $23
4.3" LCD - $35

MiniAtom Glider - FPV conversion - Trial Run (2 min 4 sec)
Jun 16, 2012, 12:22 PM
Registered User
Hi guys,
I just received the Spyhawk and took it to my clubs field. I let one of our instructors take the first flight and it almost ended in disaster. He could not get the plane to climb. He made a circle over our parked cars at about 6 inches over their roofs. He finally let it land and said it was uncontrolable. I thought that perhaps the Gyros were set too high but after reading this thread, it made be the motor mounting. I also do not know how to get the video off the HD card. There is no mention of how to in the instructions. Mine at first did not want to bind, and the screen said "bind to aircraft", I pushed the button next to the SDHD card and it bound. Now it does it by itself. Would appreciate help with getting the video off the card. I hope the soar over the car tops was recorded, would be great for our clubs web site.
Frank Arbaugh
Jun 22, 2012, 01:03 PM
Registered User

You had the same problem I had when I 1st tried to climb. The motor keeps making the nose pitch down and the autopilot only adds to the problem. My only solution was to always have about 15 degrees of up elevator when the it neutral. But you still need to hold almost full up while climbing. Unffortunately, I bought mine from in Canada and they have a 24 hour return policy which means that you have 24 hours after recieving it to request an RMA if you think it's damaged. They do post that on their website but I didn't read it when I ordered it so I wouldn't advise anyone to order from them.
Jun 22, 2012, 06:00 PM
Registered User
Hi ChillyBee,
thanks for the reply. What is the proceedure for starting the video record and how to stop. Push the button next to the card or press the "enter" key? Still trying to get the gyro gains set right. I also found that my rudder servo is jammed and not working. I bought mine from Spyhawkfpv in New Jersey. I have e-mailed them about the servo and also a dead on arrival SD card. I hope I get some satisfaction. Any idea how you can replace the servo, seems like you have to cut the plane open to do so? Any help would be appreciated.
Frank Arbaugh
Jun 23, 2012, 12:51 AM
Registered User

I start/stop my recording by pressing the small button next to the card. But I think you can actually do it from the transmitter. The video recording is really good. I hear that Spyhawkfpv has good customer support so you should be taken care of. I wished I'd bought mine through them. The only way to replace the servo is like you said and cut it out. But see if Spyhawkfpv will help you out before you chop into it.
Jun 25, 2012, 06:02 PM
Blu-Core is my friend
Gundy's Avatar
Ok, guys what is the difference between the the first round and the 2nd round??
I see Range video has them for sale, in stock for $329 + $10 shipped to me...... I am waiting for one I ordered for $369.99 there better be a difference for $30.99 more ... ...

Jun 25, 2012, 07:12 PM
reznikvova's Avatar
Originally Posted by Gundy
Ok, guys what is the difference between the the first round and the 2nd round??
I see Range video has them for sale, in stock for $329 + $10 shipped to me...... I am waiting for one I ordered for $369.99 there better be a difference for $30.99 more ... ...

Rangevideo is selling the second version already.
The main difference is that you can turn toggle stabilization on/off from the R/C by pushing a button.
Jun 26, 2012, 11:42 AM
Blu-Core is my friend
Gundy's Avatar
So, I am on the waiting list (middle of July) for a "more expensive" second version???
looks like I should cancel the backorder. and order from range video... LOL
I am going to order a set of parts for the plane, from you guys.

Jun 26, 2012, 12:54 PM
Registered User
Seems I have the same problems with mine as you guys do also. Plane tends to want to fly down due to incorrect motor angle. Can't get any altitude either. Turns like a truck!!! You better be flying this in a very large field because it simply turns like crap!!! The rudder and aileron surfaces are simply too small. For what it is, in my opinion, an overpriced gimmicky plane. I found that due to the poor turning and flying of this plane, I simply cannot even view the flight on the video screen as I constantly have to make flight adjustments. Maybe being able to turn the stability control off would help.
Jun 27, 2012, 12:43 AM
Registered User

The only way I got the plane to keep from diving all of the time was by adding up thrust which consisted of putting grommets under the 2 lower screws in the engine mount, moving the battery as far back as possible (which really put the cg behind spec), setting up at least 15 degrees of up
elevator with the stick neutral, not apply full throttle while climbing and giving it a lot of up elevator and it will climb. And forget about flying totally via fpv because you're going to always be fighting the dive even while at altitude. However, if you cut the power and give it some down elevator to neutralize the up elevator, the plane thermals great as a glider and handles like it's on rails. I almost specked out around 9am the last time I flew it just when the sun was warming everything up. But as soon as you apply throttle, down it dives.

The new version has a bigger elevator which applies more control along with moving the cg even further out of range and it allows the autopilot to be disabled which makes the plane very hard to fly according to the videos that Alishamo put up on YouTube. And I noticed that he also has up elevator with the stick neutral and still can't climb at full throttle or else it will dive...sound familiar? In my opinion, everyone who's ever flown this plane in those original videos had the same problem but didn't report it. I wish I could've been there when all of those vidoes were shot and everyone was saying how well it flow. If you do notice, on just about each one, the plane dives on takeoff if they're using full throttle...what does that tell you about Hubsan's design?

I say that the root behind all of the problems is the fact that part of the engine pod is connected to the fuselage on the cg which is going to make the plane dive anytime the throttle is opened..."old school common sense glider power pod stuff from back in the day." The only way to fix the problem would've been to redesign the pod so that it is totally behind the cg which would cause the up thrust to push the tail down and the nose up. But that would require creating a new mold for the fuselage and I don't see that happening anytime soon. So in the meanwhile, if you don't want to be stuck with a plane that really won't fly and could never be flown correctly, you'll need to trim off some of the vertical part of the power pod (in the front) where it connects to the fuselage. And just make sure that none of it touches the cg...probaby take off at least 1/2". The more you take off, the greater the effect of pushing the tail down and the nose up will be. But make sure you move your battery back foward to make up for the cg shifting. I've yet to do it because I've been working on my X8 fpv flying wing. But I plan on trying it once I've finished setting that up. If anyone gets this thing flying correctly using any method possible, please let all of us know.
Last edited by chillybee; Jun 27, 2012 at 12:51 AM.
Jun 27, 2012, 04:07 AM
Registered User
Thanks, if I had know it that tendency also I certainly would have waited until the bugs got workedout. Needless to say, even though they have a revised version coming out, it does little for our situation. But if they keep getting bad reviews, it certainly won't help with future sales. I have emailed Mike about this and he does not respond back. But when I had sales questions, he was right there!!!!

Anyway, I managed to get 2 1mm rods slid underneath the motor mount and that seemes to stabilize that. My motor was a bit loose anyway.

Do you have any pics of where you cut your pod you could share???


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