Originally Posted by Yomo

and here is my bu

THAT! is awesome!

Here is a link to a post where I describe how to install a ESC in the intake duct. Doing so is good for cooling and weight distribution.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=204

Enjoy.

Originally Posted by jimmy34256

I found the roll too variable with the flaps, new wing leaving the flaps uncut gives a truer, more stable flight as the wing is stiffer. Yes landing is hotter but still managable.

Yeah, I personally don't have flaps in mine. Thanks for the heads up on that. Landings on the Habu are ridiculously slow without flaps anyways. The plane is completely controllable down to about 15mph. In fact I was hovering mine into a 18mph wind yesterday.

Originally Posted by Prof100

Here is a link to a post where I describe how to install a ESC in the intake duct. Doing so is good for cooling and weight distribution.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=204

Enjoy.

This is the same placement I have on mine. IMHO this is the best place for the ESC. What I did on mine was use some RTV silicone (get the stuff labeled for electronics as it is non corrosive) and I filled the gaps around the edges of the ESC to make the airflow smoother.

-Brian

Thanks for the comments on my Habu...I think I almost love building them more than I love flying them

Originally Posted by WhalleyB0Y

@Crashkorey, I used 13mm low rate/take off, and 25mm high rate/landing. For take off I did not want any mixed "up elevator" but for the landing setting I found 10% (as read on my Spektum Dx8) up elevator to work well. This amount seemed to balance the plane well and didn't cause it to pitch abruptly or unexpectedly.
I wanted to try the Habu for the first time with the recommended engineered settings that is shown right in the manual on page 13. I mean after all, they design and extensively test their products to achieve the best settings right? Now that I have flown several batteries in the Habu I can say I am satisfied with these settings. As I become more confident in the envelope I may increase throw rates to enhance control at high alpha. I also found that I can slow the plane down much more than what my maiden video shows just by pitching the nose higher and using steady throttle and working the elevator to keep the nose up high. This is when the 25mm flap down comes into play by giving the plane the lift it needs to do this.
Stay tuned to my youtube channel and my Rc Fun playlist cause I got another video coming that shows a side by side comparison with an FMS F16 of equal size but it has no flaps. It's apparent how much difference it makes on take off especially.

Ok Whalley boy...did you mean DOWN elevator and not UP? If the nose is flying up when you deploy full flaps, wouldn't you want to mix in DOWN elevator to bring the nose back down a little? Am I missing something??

Originally Posted by kalmon

Yeah, I personally don't have flaps in mine. Thanks for the heads up on that. Landings on the Habu are ridiculously slow without flaps anyways. The plane is completely controllable down to about 15mph. In fact I was hovering mine into a 18mph wind yesterday.



This is the same placement I have on mine. IMHO this is the best place for the ESC. What I did on mine was use some RTV silicone (get the stuff labeled for electronics as it is non corrosive) and I filled the gaps around the edges of the ESC to make the airflow smoother.

-Brian

Brian,

Silicone or Plumbers Goop work well.

Bill

The reason i said 5s was becasue of the motor not being able to handle 6s , i just want to update the esc for now , so i can run the 5s and then the motor later when i want to go higher. So you guys say 5s is that much more fast then 4s? its worth it alla round?

Originally Posted by Kylejazz123

The reason i said 5s was becasue of the motor not being able to handle 6s , i just want to update the esc for now , so i can run the 5s and then the motor later when i want to go higher. So you guys say 5s is that much more fast then 4s? its worth it alla round?

Yes, 5s is worth it if you are capable of varying the throttle. If you park the thottle wide open cool the ESC and put a heat sink on the motor. The 5s is setup is how the plane should have been produced.

Originally Posted by Prof100

Yes, a 6S will provide a faster alternative for given KV, but the stock motor will most likely cook itself. 5S is pretty much the max with varied throttle use and ESC cooling.

Yup, what he said! I forgot to mention that you would also need to replace the stock motor/fan for a 6S setup. I also used 5S on my H2 with the stock motor and fan and it is a real significant improvement. I decided to stick with 5S and not venture down the 6S route.

Originally Posted by WhalleyB0Y

Yup, what he said! I forgot to mention that you would also need to replace the stock motor/fan for a 6S setup. I also used 5S on my H2 with the stock motor and fan and it is a real significant improvement. I decided to stick with 5S and not venture down the 6S route.

Same here.

Originally Posted by Yomo

Ok Whalley boy...did you mean DOWN elevator and not UP? If the nose is flying up when you deploy full flaps, wouldn't you want to mix in DOWN elevator to bring the nose back down a little? Am I missing something??

When you drop flaps you would want to mix in down elevator to counter the nose pitching up by the flap extension.

Originally Posted by Yomo

Ok Whalley boy...did you mean DOWN elevator and not UP? If the nose is flying up when you deploy full flaps, wouldn't you want to mix in DOWN elevator to bring the nose back down a little? Am I missing something??

Yes sorry thats exactly what I meant. I suppose I was referring to the elevator stick movement in relation to the mix. But yes the elevator moves downward when you want to counter the pitch up from the flaps.

I don't know if anyone else does, but since i'm not using flaps i use the aux in the ar600 as a separate channel for the nosewheel. It's mixed with the rudder and i use sub trim to trim the nose wheel which is loads easier than adjusting the clevis manually. Just thought i'd put my random $.02 in.

Mike

Prof100 - I just test fit the mb-1 and like you said it fits perfect. As for the esc and motor wires, it looks like I will do something similar, ie remove the excessively long esc to motor extensions and instead channel out some foam to allow routing of the sapac motor wires to the esc placed exactly where you put t on one side of the duct. I have an ice lite 100 on hand so my only concern is the cooling for the ice lite version in that location. I have a standard ice version I could swap with in my Habu 32 but would prefer to use the lite version on the Habu 2.

The more I look at this jet I am leaning towards a hot 5s setup and keeping the weight down by making it a hand launcher and omitting the gear and flaps. Still undecided though.

Originally Posted by Jetnfast

Prof100 - I just test fit the mb-1 and like you said it fits perfect. As for the esc and motor wires, it looks like I will do something similar, ie remove the excessively long esc to motor extensions and instead channel out some foam to allow routing of the sapac motor wires to the esc placed exactly where you put t on one side of the duct. I have an ice lite 100 on hand so my only concern is the cooling for the ice lite version in that location. I have a standard ice version I could swap with in my Habu 32 but would prefer to use the lite version on the Habu 2.

The more I look at this jet I am leaning towards a hot 5s setup and keeping the weight down by making it a hand launcher and omitting the gear and flaps. Still undecided though.

I think the duct location would provide ample cooling to the ICE LITE. Gear, no gear, flaps, no flaps. Too darn many decisions. I am opting for retracts and flaps just because I can. It is simply a preference.

Don't forget to clear out some foam and move the battery back. It would help to move the ESC back further than I did (even a 1/4" would help) to give the battery leads more room to connect to the battery thereby permitting further rearward battery placement..