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Old Jan 04, 2013, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by harryhenderson View Post
In Phoenix, you can modify all those flight parameters to make it feel much more realistic.
All I did was lower the stunt mode throttle curve to a flat 70 to 75% and she seems more realistic.
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Aphro View Post
Okay, so I have thoroughly searched the thread and the only thing I can come up with is to CA the C gear to the drive shaft. Is this the fix I need to stop the drive shaft from carving it's way through the tail rotor shaft?
I'm just using a little dental floss on the flat and havn't spun a gear in a while.
Old Jan 04, 2013, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Santley View Post
I'm just using a little dental floss on the flat and havn't spun a gear in a while.
So a little floss on the drive shaft to keep it from protruding so far through the C gear that it hits the tail rotor shaft? Am I understanding correctly?
Old Jan 04, 2013, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Aphro View Post
Fired her up in the garage for a quick maiden... made it up to the resonant head speed and then backed her down... PHEW... that sounded like a ban saw cutting through some serious hardwood Okay, now I know it is coming so I spool it up to resonant speed then tick her up just past it... OMG, it is like magic... now it is smooth as butter so I tick the throttle up a little more and now I am flying baby What a sweet machine... it is everything I hoped it would be.

EXCEPT for one major issue, I noticed there was a strange grinding/rubbing noise while I was flying it. After landing I checked the tail gear box, the drive shaft was still rubbing on the tail rotor shaft. I had disassembled it to check to make sure it was installed in the proper orientation and it was. After I reassembled it there was a 2mm gap between the drive shaft and the tail rotor shaft. Does this mean I need to slide my tail gear box housing further aft so it does not keep touching the tail rotor shaft? I mean, I only hovered for a couple minutes and where you can see in the picture below the shiny traces where it rubs, now there is a nice u-shape cut out on the tail rotor shaft where the drive shaft carved into it I have read about tail booms being too loose, but is there such a thing as too tight... Insight would be highly appreciated as I will not spool her up again until I get this figured out
just want to help you inorder that you to enjoy to fly this bird, if you have spare time to dismatle do it, first push over thru the turque tube to the B gear and put a drop of ca and wait to dry,assemble the body frame whilelaying the bearing and tail shaft to the body frame, insert the tailshaft to the boom until to the points that end a mak that you can see next the front turque tube bearing,set the elevator servo while putting back the left side frame, tighten the frame by their respective screw,insert the boom to the tailcase assemlbly and put the C gear push the turque tube until it firmly to the A gear ( i suggest the metal bebel gear) and put a drop of ca to secure your C gear to turque tube.(am figuring out that your tail boom is not go altheway forward to the bodyframe)
Last edited by rynldgalano; Jan 04, 2013 at 03:49 PM. Reason: spelling
Old Jan 04, 2013, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rynldgalano View Post
just want to help you inorder that you to enjoy to fly this bird, if you have spare time to dismatle do it, first push over thru the turque tube to the B gear and put a drop of ca and wait to dry,assemble the body frame whilelaying the bearing and tail shaft to the body frame, insert the tailshaft to the boom until to the points that end a mak that you can see next the front turque tube bearing,set the elevator servo while putting back the left side frame, tighten the frame by their respective screw,insert the boom to the tailcase assemlbly and put the C gear push the turque tube until it firmly to the A gear ( i suggest the metal bebel gear) and put a drop of ca to secure your C gear to turque tube.(am figuring out that your tail boom is not go altheway forward to the bodyframe)
Thank you for your input, so CA B gear 1st... then CA the C gear.

I was thinking the other way that my tail boom was too far in becasue the drive shaft is protruding too far through the C gear and hitting the tail rotor shaft. But 130X is all new to me so maybe I am looking at things the wrong way.
Old Jan 04, 2013, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aphro View Post
Fired her up in the garage for a quick maiden... made it up to the resonant head speed and then backed her down... PHEW... that sounded like a ban saw cutting through some serious hardwood Okay, now I know it is coming so I spool it up to resonant speed then tick her up just past it... OMG, it is like magic... now it is smooth as butter so I tick the throttle up a little more and now I am flying baby What a sweet machine... it is everything I hoped it would be.

EXCEPT for one major issue, I noticed there was a strange grinding/rubbing noise while I was flying it. After landing I checked the tail gear box, the drive shaft was still rubbing on the tail rotor shaft. I had disassembled it to check to make sure it was installed in the proper orientation and it was. After I reassembled it there was a 2mm gap between the drive shaft and the tail rotor shaft. Does this mean I need to slide my tail gear box housing further aft so it does not keep touching the tail rotor shaft? I mean, I only hovered for a couple minutes and where you can see in the picture below the shiny traces where it rubs, now there is a nice u-shape cut out on the tail rotor shaft where the drive shaft carved into it I have read about tail booms being too loose, but is there such a thing as too tight... Insight would be highly appreciated as I will not spool her up again until I get this figured out
just want to help you inorder that you to enjoy to fly this bird, if you have spare time to dismatle do it, first push over thru the turque tube to the B gear and put a drop of ca and wait to dry,assemble the body frame whilelaying the bearing and tail shaft to the body frame, insert the tailshaft to the boom until to the points that end a mak that you can see next the front turque tube bearing,set the elevator servo while putting back the left side frame, tighten the frame by their respective screw,insert the boom to the tailcase assemlbly and put the C gear push the turque tube until it firmly to the A gear ( i suggest the metal bebel gear) and put a drop of ca to secure your C gear to turque tube.(am figuring out that your tail boom is not go altheway forward to the bodyframe)
Old Jan 04, 2013, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Aphro View Post
Thank you for your input, so CA B gear 1st... then CA the C gear.

I was thinking the other way that my tail boom was too far in becasue the drive shaft is protruding too far through the C gear and hitting the tail rotor shaft. But 130X is all new to me so maybe I am looking at things the wrong way.
metal Bevel A gear is more precise and by mid of this month xtreme upgrade production for metal C and D gear will come out. join us in facebook in 130X
Old Jan 04, 2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Aphro View Post
So a little floss on the drive shaft to keep it from protruding so far through the C gear that it hits the tail rotor shaft? Am I understanding correctly?
Sorry Aphro I did mean to mislead you, the floss only makes the fit tighter so it will not spin on the slot. I waiting for someone to have a answer to your tail shaft. I have no ideal why it sticks thru the C gear that far. I have no answers but I could make measurements of my parts if you want to check lengths or slot sizes.
Old Jan 04, 2013, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Santley View Post
I have no ideal why it sticks thru the C gear that far.
It's because of a lack of quality control regarding the part tolerances. I've had TTs (and booms) vary as much as several mms in length from one to another. He can either grind the end of the TT down a bit or pull out the tail boom a bit to move the C gear back to where the TT is flush with it. This is assuming he has the TT installed the correct way with the short flat on the C gear end.
Old Jan 04, 2013, 08:55 PM
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Just added a new heli to the Blade fleet. Should have a nano box in there too but lost it somewhere....It sits in my tx box anyhow
Old Jan 04, 2013, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
Just added a new heli to the Blade fleet. Should have a nano box in there too but lost it somewhere....It sits in my tx box anyhow
The 500X has finally been released? Still says pre-order on Horizon's site.
Old Jan 04, 2013, 09:23 PM
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So I blew it with my brand new TP 65C 325 pack. I didn't reset the timer from the last flight and thought I was flying for a long time. I was flying in #1 stunt mode on the DX8 settings. Finally I noticed the rotor speed had reduced a little. Man, this battery keeps a consistent output! So I landed immediately. 6:39 on the clock! Oh, no! So I put it on the meter. 3.654v on both cells... identical. Well, that's not too bad... nowhere near the dreaded 3.3v. Then I charged it. It took 324mAh! Well, I'm hoping the pack is under-rated. I hope I didn't kill it. These packs are fantastic. I'm still charging my first 5 cycles at 1C.
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
Just added a new heli to the Blade fleet. Should have a nano box in there too but lost it somewhere....It sits in my tx box anyhow
Wow! Let us know how you like it. You are going to need to work on your avatar. Unless you have a very big indoors.
Old Jan 04, 2013, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
So I blew it with my brand new TP 65C 325 pack. I didn't reset the timer from the last flight and thought I was flying for a long time. I was flying in #1 stunt mode on the DX8 settings. Finally I noticed the rotor speed had reduced a little. Man, this battery keeps a consistent output! So I landed immediately. 6:39 on the clock! Oh, no! So I put it on the meter. 3.654v on both cells... identical. Well, that's not too bad... nowhere near the dreaded 3.3v. Then I charged it. It took 324mAh! Well, I'm hoping the pack is under-rated. I hope I didn't kill it. These packs are fantastic. I'm still charging my first 5 cycles at 1C.
At 3.6v resting your pack has 0 capacity left. The "dreaded 3.3v" is an "under load" voltage. once you land the voltage recovers to its "resting" voltage, which tells you how much capacity it has left.... I think you cut it close, but are probably ok.... 3.7v resting is around 10%, so you probably had 5%ish left....
Old Jan 04, 2013, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dacaur View Post
At 3.6v resting your pack has 0 capacity left. The "dreaded 3.3v" is an "under load" voltage. once you land the voltage recovers to its "resting" voltage, which tells you how much capacity it has left.... I think you cut it close, but are probably ok.... 3.7v resting is around 10%, so you probably had 5%ish left....
Well, crumb. I'll mark it and keep an eye on it.
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