I hope this is for real....

Brushless, collective pitch, variable pitch shaft driven tail, 7.4 lipo with charger.

http://www.modelflight.com.au/produc...10459-158.html



1- Approximately 3 months after starting this thread I think this is a worthwhile edit, what I consider to be an absolute must read if you have a 130X
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=434482

2- Easiest way I have found to change the gears tail gears, Thanks Doublech for the vid.

How to install Blade 130X D gear in 1:16 (minutes not hours) (2 min 26 sec)

3- If you have a wobble during pitch changes thicker o-rings seem to cure the problem, the o-rings on the slider and the tail servo link are cut in half.[I actually removed the o-rings on the lower part of the pitch links, mine hit the swash]



4- If you have tried every thing to cure a violent vibration in the tail during spool up check to make sure your tail rotor shaft is square.


The distance between X-Y should be the same as the distance between Y-Z and the distance between X-W should be the same as the distance between W-Z


5- If you have a problem keeping your C gear on the TT, you may want to hot glue the tail box to the boom to keep the tail box from moving backwards during flight, the hot glue will hold the tail box in place but it is removable if need be.

Some people like to CA glue the C gear to the TT but I find just threading some dental floss through the C gear before installing it on to the TT works well, just make sure you trim the excess floss so it doesn't interfere with the bearing.

6- Now for A-B gear mesh, in a perfect world the gears would look like this and have a little bit of play between the two.


Unfortunately we are only able to easily adjust the one axis of the one gear [B], now if we could easily adjust the A and the B gear we could have that perfect mesh, since we cant we go for the best we can.

If there is some lash and the edge of the A gear isn't hitting the lip on the B gear you are probably fine.

In a perfect world there would be a little bit of play when the two gears are aligned as I described above but this is not a perfect world..lol

If the A gear is a little higher or lower on the shaft that will effect where the gears need to be to get a good mesh, they were designed to meet perfectly at the smaller side of the teeth on each gear but that's not always gonna happen on a mass produced heli this small.

With all this said you may need to adjust your boom in or out to get the proper mesh between the A and B gear, the TT's and booms aren't very consistent as far as size goes, this means there is no black and white answer to where every thing should be set to get the proper mesh.

7- Some people have mentioned a hard tilt during lift off, I have had the chance to experiment with a few of these helis and they do in fact take alot more cyclic input to get off the ground than others, they also don't seem to have that locked in feel during flight as others.
Now I know the manual says don't use any trim, but I can tell you from experience that the models that have the hard tilt benefit greatly when trimmed as I am about to describe.
Unplug your motor
Turn your TX on
Set all trim to center and subtrim to 0
Plug your heli into battery
Push throttle up and watch to see if your swash tilts
If it tilts right, lower throttle to reset gyro and add left subtrim
Push throttle back up and see if the swash still tilts, if it does add more subtrim
Repeat this process till the swash no longer tilts during throttle input, if you go too far and the swash tilts in the opposite direction simply back off the subtrim a little.

I noticed some helis have the same kind of drift with the tail slider but they seem to be better corrected by simply trimming the tail as if it were a fixed pitch, balance bar heli. If the heli rotates to the left while hovering just add some right trim or subtrim to the rudder.

6- Some helis have a clearance issue with the A gear and the front servo, you can either sand down the outer edge of the A gear or you can move the lower left corner of the front servo forward of the slot it is designed to go in, moving the servo does involve taking the frame apart though.

DISCLAIMER These mods are listed to show what worked well for me, your mileage may vary..lol I do not assume any responsibility if you choose to use any of these mods

Video
http://www.modelflight.com.au/ProdIn...BLH3780-HI.wmv

Yummy...more helis Just hope its not too fragile.

I like the boom supports, cant really tell where they are hiding the 3-1 board.

I hope it's protected better than the mcpx and the msr board.

sure is by the looks of it

Overview

The Blade 130X remote control helicopter comes as a Bind-N-Fly package with an AS3X flybarless control unit, 2S LiPO, brushless power and a torque tube driven tail. The Blade 130X is a 100-class RC helicopter capable of inverted flight and extreme 3D aerobatics. Loops, rolls, tic tocs and hurricanes are a breeze with this micro helicopter. Suitable for indoor or outdoor operation this is the best RC helicopter in its class. Team it up with a Spektrum DX7S (SPM7800) or DX8 (SPM8800) for world class performance.
Features

Powerful 6730Kv brushless inrunner motor
Shaft-driven, variable-pitch tail rotor
Symmetrical 135mm main rotor blades
Spektrum™ 2.9 gram linear long-throw cyclic servos
Spektrum 2.9 gram linear performance tail servo
Strong, lightweight airframe
Carbon fiber main shaft and tail boom
Sleek body with sharp 130 X graphics
Includes E-flite® 2S 7.4V 300mAh 35C Li-Po battery
Includes Celectra™ 2S 7.4V DC Li-Po Charger with AC adapter
Requires a 6 channel computer DSM2®/DSMX® transmitter, sold separately

Originally Posted by liduno

I like the boom supports, cant really tell where they are hiding the 3-1 board.

I hope it's protected better than the mcpx and the msr board.

Mcpx board protection is not an issue, I cant see that will be any different here either. The tail looks the weak spot, as always with torque tubes and tail gears. However it sill looks a great heli, probably time to bin the 250 and replace it with this.

Another thing..I just hope they have sorted out the linear servos, whereby you don't have to keep stripping them down to clean the wipers in the pots.
I don't understand why I can run normal servos for years and years and they work just fine..and Mcpx servos go black and jittery, and have to be cleaned every month.

I see they've learnt from the mCP-X with Z bends in all three pushrods, and gromets on every ball joint (even the blade grips).

I wonder what plug the battey will use. Possibly the same as the HyperTaxi, as the charger looks the same.

The tail looks the weak spot, as always with torque tubes and tails gears.

That's my worry too. At the size a motor driven tail might work just as well and be cheaper and stronger. I worry that they've done this for the image as much as for performance.

cant really tell where they are hiding the 3-1 board.

There's a board mounted horizontally under the main gear - an another vertically between the motor and main shaft.

I guess the big question is whether this will be priced closer to the mCP-X or the 300x...

Just spoke to Hamish and he has a test one and says it flies great

i'll be going down to the indoors event next week so will film him flying it

for those that don't know how Hamish flies heres the new 300X being put through it's paces so i'm sure we will see just how it flies when he takes the sticks

cheers chuck

Blade 300X Helicopter (4 min 4 sec)

Originally Posted by RobinBennett

I guess the big question is whether this will be priced closer to the mCP-X or the 300x...

$299 here in Australia so will be a little cheaper in the states but not much more i doubt!

cheers chuck

Im getting one..... #130x

It will $279,99 in the US

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...-x-bnf-BLH3780

$280 BNF? Reduced from $359...LOL the 250 isn't going in the bin then. Unsubscribed.

ETA is mid June

In case you haven't noticed, E-flite doesn't make helis any more. Been that way for over a year. We're BLADE now! (Just goes to show how strong the brand equity is with E-flite!)

Originally Posted by ChuckTseeker

sure is by the looks of it


Symmetrical 135mm main rotor blades

What are those things that stick out from the leading side of the main rotors? They are not on the spare blades.