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Thread OP
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Eddie, that's a real beauty.
Modifying kits is what we Woody Builders love to do, just part of the enjoyment of building our own. Ray Sky Bench ... Woodys Forever WWW.Skybench.com |
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I've not weighed the components against each other yet, but, and this is only a but, I'm thinking that the balsa "sticks" that I plan to use are probably lighter than a solid sheet of equal thickness. The supplied pieces in the kit are very light though...so maybe there would not be as much of a difference. As for cutting additional holes in the supplied stab, I'm not thinking too much weight savings would be gained by this activity, but maybe some. As for the electric components, I've got the motor that I plan to use, and the ESC to go with it, all that's needed to decide is the battery size (and weight of it). The plan is to build the plane so that I can insert the known components, and use weight (and component location) to determine the final battery size. Thanks for the link to the perma grit on your site. That sounds like a good idea and one that I may go with. Lastly, and I'd like to make it clear why I'm considering this activity in the first place, I built a kit a couple of years ago that I electrified, and although it flew fine I eventually cut off the nose and lengthened it 1.75 inches in order to get the moment arm further forwards of the CG, thereby allowing me to remove almost 140 grams from the overall airframe. Needless to say it flew much, much better after this mod. I keep thinking that I wish that I had built the tail lighter -it also has solid control surfaces with lightening holes in them, and I wonder how much lighter I could have gone with the electrical equipment if I had. My goal is to try and build this Oly II SX as light as possible, so as to not have too much of a weight penalty for going electric. I also don't want to too negatively effect the original airframe. We'll see how I do? Thanks again for all of everyone's thoughts/ comments/ suggestions! By the way, if glueing balsa to CF, must one use epoxy, or rubberized CA? Would Gorilla wood glue work? Rob |
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Thread OP
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Rob, Only one way for YOU to be sure if Gorilla glue will work on carbon ...
experiment by gluing them together and then experiment with stress tests. Ray Sky Bench ... Woodys Forever WWW.Skybench.com |
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True, to test.
For C/F to wood; *laminating epoxy first, followed by rubberized CA. If RB CA, even though it is about medium to slow, I would still have a jig set up to apply and clamp for quick straight n true. I still have not used PU on anything but wood and some foams. *Quality first. If not, then the slowest cheap stuff you can get (60-90min) Jared Going to get my Sky Bench V1 Oly II built this winter, in some form. |
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On pre cured CF to wood:
Not so long ago, I tried to make up some spar caps with precured .014 carbon on top for another project. I used laminating epoxy that I got from a boat builder. I've used it before for wetting out fiberglass and carbon, seemed fine. . It peeled off the wood easily. 30 minute epoxy did a much better job. Is the rubberized CA on the carbon side or the wood side? On the tail, what is the density of the wood? If you don't cut lightening holes, you don't have to cover the tail and you can just use sanding sealer or something. (I like SIg Sanding Sealer). If smell is a problem, you can put on water based polyurethane as described here: http://www.djaerotech.com/dj_askjd/d.../lightfin.html I find it easier to use the sanding sealer, but it does have a penetrating smell. The water based urethane is ok, for me not quite as nice results, but ok. On the small sample pieces I was doing, weight was about the same. Nitrate dope mixed with talcum powder was good, but not as good as the sanding sealer. If you use light c-grain on the stab, and you taper it with a plane so it is thinner out near the tips, it will be just as strong and almost as stiff for most purposes, particularly in the air, but you can save quite a bit of weight. I am not sure but my guess is that it will be as light as a built up stab for less work. |
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Interesting info on your epoxy types and experiences lincoln. Will have to do like Ray suggest, and as know, to test samples.
"Good luck on your Oly II build. Please post your progress?" Perhaps. Lots of threads. Not sure what to add. Some variations are considered as bone stock, electric with flaps or spoilers, both with different fuses, mod to IIS or IISX. I do like the shoulder mount wings for the SB OlyIISX version for several reasons. Jared |
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for carbon to wood try G-Flex epoxy, great stuff
http://www.cstsales.com/G_flex_epoxy.html |
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Rob |
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Hey Eddie, thanks for your comments, sorry not to have responded sooner! I like the look of your OLY III and I had considered going with the III also but thought that the motor I have would suit the II better and it was perfect timing with Ray's release of the II SX
I know what you mean about the quality of the kit. This is the first SkyBench kit for me and I'm sure that it won't be the last. In addition to the kit quality, Ray's support and interest in providing great customer service is second to none. Cheers, Rob |
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Allan |
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Thread OP
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Bill will be posting his Videos on U-tube, I think he is 88Hawksnest. When I get caught up answering Sky Bench emails, I have 2 pics of Bill to post here. I took a very short movie of Bill launching his electric 2M Lil Bird and that was all the time I could take away from my first flying experience on the MAX. Will write some more later. I Love flying the MAX. Thank you Doc Bell for the heads up on MAX Patch. Ray Sky Bench ... Woodys Forever WWW.Skybench.com |
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Hi all, Ray if you happen to read this I'd appreciate your thoughts on this, and anyone else can certainly lend their thoughts also!
I'm considering doing a built-up vertical stab and rudder for the Oly II SX and have a question about whether or not to build it as the drawing shows (a portion of it counter rotates to the main surface) or build it with a simple hinge line as is the case with the solid pieces? Thanks! Rob P.S. Also, for reference (and if you are interested), the built-up h-stab and control surface weighs in at 17 grams, vs. 36 for the solid. Just an FYI. ImagesView all Images in thread
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Last edited by robh; Oct 07, 2012 at 05:51 PM.
Reason: accuracy
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Only looks like about another oz or so in the nose with solid. At 100" is couldn't make much of a difference. Although built up is sweet with transparent covering.
Plus, solid is quick to build and resist hanger rash better. Not that I would know the ol' Opps/Doof/Ouch much. |
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