1922 Gold Cup Racer "MISS SEVERN" - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Mar 26, 2012, 06:57 PM
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30. Now start the bottom sub planking by placing a pencil mark at frame #F6 and at both chines at frame #F7. The back side of the first plank will be crossing the center line of the keel at the mark at frame #F6 and at the marks on the shears at frame #F7. Take the first plank and place it on the pencil marks and draw a cut line where the center line of the keel crosses the plank. This will be your cut mark for the angled butt joint on the keel for the bottom planking. Take a second plank and do the same marking of the angled butt joint cut line. Cut the planks on their angled cut marks. Now place the planks back in position on the bottom of the hull and pencil mark where the plank crosses any of the frame and batten structure for gluing. One at a time glue the first and second bottom planks to the frame work with medium CA glue, making sure to have a good butt joint at the center line of the keel.
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Mar 26, 2012, 06:59 PM
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31. Proceed with the bottom planking in the same manner going toward the stern. When you come to the stuffing box slot and the rudder stuffing box holes the planking will start from the inside of the ply wood doublers leaving a cut out for the stuffing boxes.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:02 PM
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32. Once the bottom planking is done to the transom, you can start with the bottom planking going forward to the stem post. As you work forward with the planking you will notice that the planking will start to overlap the side planking from frame #F1 to the stem post. Leave the planking overlap about 3/4 over the chine line.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:07 PM
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33. Once all of the bottom planking is completed, the planking can be trimmed and block sanded smooth with the side planking. Also all of the side and bottom planking can be block sanded smooth using 180 grit sand paper. Go easy with the sanding block and do not put a lot of pressure against the block but rather have the sand paper cut the high spots in the sub planking.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:10 PM
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34. The transom can now have the side and bottom planking trimmed and block sanded true with the transom.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:14 PM
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35. With the bottom and side sub planking block sanded, we must mark were the chine line will run from the bottom of the hull to the stem post. This will be the cut line for the bottom planking once it has been all glued to the bottom sub planking. Take one of the mahogany planking strips and alien the top edge of the strip with the bottom of the hull and tape it to the side of the hull at around frame #F8. Continue taping the strip with the top edge even with the bottom of the hull about every 6 working forward toward the stem post.
Last edited by frankg; Mar 26, 2012 at 07:20 PM.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:17 PM
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36. Keep following the sharp corner of the of the bottom and side sub planking until frame #F2 where the mahogany plank will just naturally run off to the stem post. Tape the plank in place so as not to move when making the chine cut line with a ball point pen.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:27 PM
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37. Once the cut line is marked the mahogany plank can be moved to the opposite side of the hull and the procedure repeated but this time make sure the plank runs off the stem post at the same point as the mark on the first side.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:31 PM
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38. At this point in the build before any mahogany planking is started we coated the entire hull and transom with a penetrating resin to stiffen and water proof the balsa sub planking. We used the two part Z-Poxy by Pacer which can be found in most hobby shops that carry ZAP Glues. After mixing a batch of the epoxy we thinned it with Xylene thinner to the consistency of water, we coated the outside of the hull. Once the epoxy has hardened, we gave a quick sanding with the 180 grit sand paper to eliminate any of the raised grain of the balsa wood as well as for giving the CA glue a good bite on the epoxy.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:35 PM
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39. Since all the planking runs on this model are over the 36 stock plank length, we must stagger the plank joints just as on the real boat. Measure in from the transom 6 on the keel center line and place a pencil mark. This will be the butt end of the first planks on both the port and starboard side of the keel.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:37 PM
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40. The first plank will butt the 6 mark of the keel and will run with its side edge on the center line of the keel. Tape in place with strips of masking tape as you run forward to the stem post.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:38 PM
Spreckels Lake, GGP, SF, CA
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Mar 26, 2012, 07:41 PM
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41. As the plank approaches the stem post do not try to follow the turn of the stem post with the edge of the plank, but let it run off and tape in place. Now with a sharp pencil, mark the turn of the stem post on the plank as well as marking the front and back of the propeller stuffing box slot on the plank.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:43 PM
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42. Once marked, remove the tapes from the plank and draw a straight line 3/16 in for the edge of the plank in between the front and back pencil marks of the stuffing box. With a Xacto knife, cut out the piece of plank between the marks for the stuffing box slot. Also cut the turn of the stem post mark on the plank leaving it a little full of the mark for sanding to fit once glued in place
Mar 26, 2012, 11:39 PM
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43. The plank is now glued in place with medium CA glue starting at the 6 pencil mark on the center line of the keel. Run a bead of the CA glue down about 6 at a time set the plank in position, wait a few seconds and then spray with the accelerator from the back of the plank. DO NOT SPRAY the accelerator where the next 6 bead of glue is to be placed. Continue gluing the plank down 6 at a time, going down along the side the propeller stuffing box slot.

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