1922 Gold Cup Racer "MISS SEVERN" - Page 21 - RC Groups
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Oct 17, 2012, 11:23 PM
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Tito59's Avatar
Thanks JAY. Yeah unfortunately I'm a perfectionist and its driving me crazy looking at that less than perfect transition. I love the sleek lines of his model and it does seem ashamed to finish it knowing it will look a bit odd.

Frankg, any suggestions?
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Oct 18, 2012, 08:22 AM
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TITO59- If it were me I would take apart the frame work to remove the frame #F5. If you can not wait for the new laser cut frame #F5, which is being mailed out at the end of this week, to reach you , you can down load the PDF file drawing which is posted in this thread , and recut the over sized frame #F5. You will notice that the chine notches and the sides of the frame are too wide at the chine. The rest of the frame is correct.
Oct 18, 2012, 09:35 AM
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Tito59's Avatar
Thanks Frank, I'll wait for the part and give it a try. I will probably cut the existing part out in sections to minimize any damage to the sheers, battens and keel, then shoe horn the new rib in place. Not sure if that's even possible, I'll let you know how it goes. Hope all is well and hope your feeling better.

Again thanks for your support and quick response. Its a pleasure dealing with you.
Oct 19, 2012, 06:41 AM
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JayJay76's Avatar
Hi Tito, I thought you had already put the sub planking on, you should be able to swap it out without too much damage. But wshores has already put the balsa plaking on, I doubt he will be able to correct the shape at this point without stripping most of the planking off..
Oct 19, 2012, 10:37 AM
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pjesus's Avatar
frankg, a stupid question if I'm allowed...

When applying the resin and the urethane varnish do you brush it or airbrush it?

[edited]
Oops.. sorry, should've searched better...
Quote:
Originally Posted by frankg
GRAVEMAN - YEP! All the epoxy coats and finish coats of the polyurethane was done with throw away brushes.
Last edited by pjesus; Oct 19, 2012 at 10:46 AM.
Oct 19, 2012, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjesus
frankg, a stupid question if I'm allowed...

When applying the resin and the urethane varnish do you brush it or airbrush it?
Do not spray catalyzed materials like resin unless you have the proper breathing equipment, etc. - dust masks and hardware store respirators don't count! Resin in lungs = bad stuff.

Care must be taken when spraying anything, of course.
Oct 19, 2012, 10:55 AM
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pjesus's Avatar
I do understand the risks Aero but thanks for the heads up anyway

(I do use a mask with filters when spraying or heavy sanding)
Oct 19, 2012, 11:46 AM
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Tito59's Avatar
JayJay, No the sub planking is not on yet. I was about to start and something inside said no, wait and ask a few more questions. I spoke via phone with Frankg and he was as usual very helpful. When I receive the new rib I'm sure with a little finesse I can cut out F5 and wiggle the new one in place. Dremel tool, xacto should do it.
Oct 19, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjesus
I do understand the risks Aero but thanks for the heads up anyway

(I do use a mask with filters when spraying or heavy sanding)
Fair enough! it should always be suggested though since people with less experience may read these threads in the future.
Oct 19, 2012, 06:36 PM
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Tito59's Avatar
Franks, is the PDF drawing of the new F5 full scale?
Oct 19, 2012, 06:39 PM
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Yes it is full scale and the PDF file is set up to print on 8 1/2" x 11" paper from your printer.
Oct 19, 2012, 08:57 PM
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Tito59's Avatar
The reason I ask is I removed the old F5 as we talked about today and then printed and cut out the scale rib to see how it would fit and think about how to install the new one when it arrives, the entire rib is undersized all the way to the sheer. The old rib measures aproximately 8 9/16" lg at the foot. The drawing measures only 8 1/8" at the foot? The distance on the opposite side at the sheer is identical.
Oct 19, 2012, 09:53 PM
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TITO59- The file when I printed out measures 8- 9/16 across the base line- shear out side dimension. I will be shipping out the new frame next week PRIORITY MAIL. Wait for the frame.
Oct 20, 2012, 01:19 AM
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JayJay76's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerominded
Do not spray catalyzed materials like resin unless you have the proper breathing equipment, etc. - dust masks and hardware store respirators don't count!
SO TRUE. the first time I used catalyzed clearcoat I only used a particulate mask; it seemed to be going okay, sort of a long session with the pistol cleanup, but then I had the idea to run to the supermarket around the corner for a couple of beers. I wandered for a bit trying to recall what else I was supposed to pick up, then I spent while looking at the wall o beer before picking out a couple nice brightly labeled bottles and proceeded to the checkout. Everything seemed pretty normal till I paid the lady and realized I'd left my ability to speak German in the paint booth. After a few moments of searching for words, I chose "danke, Schoenes wochenende, tschuess. ." But it came out more like "daaaga, shoonywookanoony, choooo. .." she looked at me like I had a bowl of goldfish on my head. I realized all at once that I still had my paper tuxedo on and a dustmask ring around my mouth masking out a nice inverted goatee of red shop rag lint , and apparently, in the process of pulling it off my head, my hair sticky with paint was arranged like I'd rollen down a hill and into a pack of wild boar. I avoided that shop for a few days. I dunno what's in that stuff but it will turn you into a doorstop if you aren't careful.
Oct 20, 2012, 07:43 AM
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Tito59's Avatar
Frankg, No problem, wshores sent me a message and suggested I check my print properties. Thought I printed it at 100% but there was a scalable setting that was incorrect. I reprinted it and all is well.
Thanks wshores!


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